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PeterW

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Everything posted by PeterW

  1. In fact .... in that shower in the spare ensuite, there should be a hose ..! Nick one from that ..!
  2. Its leaking both sides as the hose flange isn’t tight up against the end of the fill valve so water is leaking around it. Washer will sort that. These will fit. Hose washer
  3. Need a new one then ...
  4. Should be a rubber washer inside the end of the silver pipe ..?
  5. Spin both those nuts off the inlet - you don’t need them.
  6. You’ve put the funny black bit in at 90 degrees out ... (bit that was on top of the new flush when it came)
  7. PeterW

    Leak

    @ProDave there are two leaks - one from a pipe and one from a waste. And I wouldn’t re-make that waste for my worst enemy - it’s a bin and replace job as someone has hacked off basically the second arm from a twin sink set and lashed it together ...
  8. Rotate the top bit clockwise slightly and it will come off and the two will look the same ...
  9. If you’re full fill with insulation then two things ... you won’t hear the noise change much as you hit a batten or not as it’s packed back to the wall, and regular stud finders will struggle as all they will see is the foil on the insulation..! mark the ceiling in pencil and the floor in sharpie marker !!
  10. PeterW

    Leak

    Ok so assume the washing machine is straight into a pipe with a low trap on it, through the wall and down into the tee at the bottom ..?? Is it gurgling ..?? Could be pulling air past the trap as it pumps out. @lizzie where does the circled pipe go..?? its not clean, it’s got a lot of green on it for a new pipe which may indicate a leak from that elbow at the top.
  11. PeterW

    Leak

    Right. The smell is probably because of this pipe. Chances are, crap is settling out as it flows down as it’s horizontal and that’s what smells. There looks to be only a small water trap to that too but shouldn’t be an issue. The noise is because the water from the dishwasher is hitting the side of the pipe as it rushes in - McAlpine fix this with a redirect flap on the inside so it goes downwards only. It could - and should - be done much neater than that and it just looks like a van job (that is a job done from crap off the van as I can’t be bothered to go to the merchants for the right stuff..) Got a picture of the other one ..? And if you paid for this then they should put it right. If they don’t want to then send them then bill. Where is the leak out of interest ..?
  12. PeterW

    Leak

    That lovely copper is Tectite - fine for visible stuff but cannot be demounted... It “looks” professional but in reality anyone can do it as long as the ends are cut with a pipe slice - you can’t use the fresh end of a pipe nor can you use a hacksaw as it knackers the o-ring. My guess is that it’s leaking from a copper joint where he’s not done it correctly and if the waste is anything to go by, I’d expect he’s damaged a tectite fitting it. @lizzie what concerns me there is that part shouldn’t be into an ordinary elbow, that’s a waste set that he has hacked about and basically made a complete f&ck up of...!! It’s noisy as the long horizontal pipe is acting as an echo chamber ..!! This is a McAlpine double branch - see how the waste itself has the locking ring, not the fitting afterwards..?
  13. You are hitting the lintel so just put a batten right and the top and the window top one just stick on with no nails or similar with a couple of ordinary wood screws holding it to the vertical batten either side. if you are roaming the reveals - and make sure windows will open first, you can put a vertical up the inside of each side just screwed into the one you’ve already put in. The horizontal then rests on that anyway. With foam ideally you want to use low expansion but tbh any of them work. Thin bead of foam, let it expand and go off for 5 mins then squash the board onto the wall. It’s easier running foam onto the board laid flat....
  14. If that’s the same both sides you might get 25mm of celotex on the wall - glue it on with foam.
  15. Take a photo with a tape measure to show how much of the uPVC frame is showing and we can give an indication of whether you will get insulation in there or not
  16. You can get bird wires - they are a tensioned stainless or copper wire strung with either 2 or 3 parallel wires that are about an inch or two above the ridge. It means larger birds can’t roost on the ridge
  17. Doesn’t matter ..! You can go from the other corner if you want, make sure there is a batten down the window frame and then keep going. You'll end up with an odd sized space in the middle but as long as there is batten each side to screw the board to then it doesn’t matter. The gaps are mostly 350mm (so battens become 400mm in centres) but you can see some are narrower - never wider !
  18. Why TracPipe..? Can you not get the entry point closer to the appliance ..?
  19. I think they blur the lines between semi rigid and flexible too - the cheap wire wound plastic film coated stuff can be crushed easily and does attract muck and dust. Proper semi flex you can stand on and not damage and I would go as far as to say it’s more resilient than steel duct.
  20. @JSHarris do you have the wiring diagram that shows your heat/cool switch over on the ASHP itself ..?
  21. So they produce a Guide of quite substantial legal extracts that define how they get round the rules.... The key issue would be the provision of the slab which does require PP but you already have this for the garage. So building the slab is for the “garage” then you would have to put the garden room (or caravan...) on top of this. You don’t have PD so couldn’t relocate the slab. And I reckon given the answer you’ve already had from the council about changing the design, you’re going to be in for a fight...!!
  22. From inBrief Under s 29 of the Caravan Sites and Control Development Act 1960, a caravan is any kind of structure built for human habitation which is capable of being moved from one place to another. To be classed as a caravan, the structure must not measure more than 20m in length, 6.8m in width, and the overall height of living accommodation (measured internally from the floor at the lowest level to the ceiling at the highest level) must not be more than 3.05m. Under the Mobile Homes Act 2013, a ‘twin unit caravan’ is a structure designed or adapted for human habitation which: is composed of not more than two sections separately constructed and designed to be assembled on a site by means of bolts, clamps or other devices; and is, when assembled, physically capable of being moved by road from one place to another (whether by being towed, or by being transported on a motor vehicle or trailer). so if you can satisfy the planning officer that your 8m x 6m garden room meets that lot then you are fine however .... the maximum load width for a normal load is 2.9m so you would have show to the council how the building can be separated into not more than 2 sections to be moved.
  23. You use a Lawful Development Certificate to either to confirm the lawful nature of something that has been there for 4 years or more; or to agree that something could be lawfully placed on the land. You already have planning permission for a building (garage) that is 48sqm. You’re saying you want to not build that but build something else in its place ..?? Correct ..?? what you are better doing is applying for a variation or non material amendment on that planning which will cost you £85 or so, instead of basically paying £270 to the council to agree something that you’ve basically already had agreed ... @ProDave has a different position - he has a clause that says he has to remove the van but has applied to retain it using a lawful devlopment certificate. That is not what you want to do. The council could argue that your structure doesn’t meet the rules for a caravan and make you apply for planning as you have had PD removed too - any reason you want to go the harder route on this..?
  24. You can’t apply for a Lawful Development Certificate in advance of it being there ..! Have you read the Guidance Notes..??
  25. Or screw back to the wall and not worry too much as otherwise you’ll create more issues with gaps behind the insulation.... ? I wouldn’t be worrying about this sort of thing - flat back to the wall and fill gaps with Easyfill. Start to “square up” rooms that aren’t and you’ll be there for weeks ....
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