PeterW

French drain is a French drain .... don’t need to line them but some people like to ..

You’re mixing two different VAT documents up here - be careful ..! That quote is from the VAT guide for suppliers of services in the building trade. ( @Nickfromwales Take note of this....) The quote requires as it says, all parts of 3.1.2 to be met, but to meet those you need to satisfy point 3, which is the relevant certificates. Section 18 lists both certificates, but they are not for domestic dwellings, but for residential purpose which relates to the building of care homes etc. There is no recognised certificate for zero rating in a domestic dwelling otherwise it would be listed. The full VAT 708 notice is here. Your supplier has incorrectly interpreted the rules and would be unable to produce the correct certificate - and could effectively request the VAT from you...

No, nothing, none at all ... Jet blue is not for plastic to plastic, and they seal flat enough not to leak anyway.

Needs to be below the DPC so any water drops below it

That’s the correct rate - sorry !!! It’s not reclaimable either... The only way to get a pump zero rated is have the concrete company do supply and fix and zero rate the whole job.

Gap with a French drain of 20mm stone

Assuming he has put the concrete lintel at 2500 ie above the top line of the curved lintel..? It will need some internal detailing to complete the arch both sides and fit adequate insulation but I’ve seen it done to no detriment.

Ah ok - thought you meant use by date ..!

Thats out of date and 12 months old .... Sounds like the supplier is pushing the crap your way - ask for fresh bags as that will set very quickly and go lumpy especially when it’s got a porous adhesive to pull the moisture out of it.

@Nickfromwales usually mandates clear CT1 as a backing with white sacrificial sealant on the front of it.

262 here

The Makita LXT 18v strimmer is good - light and doesn’t chew through a 3Ah battery every 5 minutes either.

It needs to be double blind, with a control and with a random additional sample. That could be fun ..!

Having previously bought at auction I’ve seen the best method for this is to get the vendor to do the searches via their appointed solicitor and pass through as a pre-pack contract. Essentially you exchange at point of purchase at the auction - works well and it’s all up front. Downside is when the buyers solicitor won’t accept the searches and insists on doing their own... had this happen to friends who needed to move quickly and put their house up for auction. Had an offer of a decent amount 2 weeks before the auction and passed the pack to buyers solicitor as they had accepted the offer. Week after the auction date and the solicitor decided he didn’t like the contract wording and wanted to restart the process and quoted 8-10 weeks to completion.... you can guess the rest !!

You would also need the park side charger as the LXT one reads the chip in the battery.

Who’s windows are they ...? If they have been powder coated then they need a different type of paint to a window that potentially has been painted previously. A call to the manufacturer may be in order. The best way may be to identify the correct colour and have them sprayed - oddly you may find someone like a Dentmaster or ChipsAway a better solution as anything brushed will leave a less than acceptable finish.

If these are being repainted as the PM appointed fitters have damaged them then I would want them painted by a specialist contractor as the warranty will be on the whole unit.

Is it painted aluminium ..? If so, you need a paint suitable to go over the top of the current coating. I doubt that what has been purchased is what is needed as DemiDekk is a wood stain not a paint.

@AliMcLeod they are standard valves not TRVs so you can go ahead with what we suggested ..!

Just follow my instructions and it will be fine

How long is a piece of string ..?? Basically this stuff is temperature and moisture dependent - warm and humid it expands more and sets quicker. Cold and dry, it’s lower and slower. Manufacturer gives the expansion I think at 19c and “average” humidity. They don’t know if you are using this on an unheated building site in winter or in a warm bathroom ....

Yep they are probably standard valves so switching both off would potentially cause a problem. As it stands though you can’t use the towel rads unless the UFh is on and tbh they can be pretty useful although that also depends on having a stat in a room without a TRV too - usually an upstairs hallway. I’ve also dropped you a PM

I doubt towel rail has a trv. Without a bypass of some sort you could find the boiler cutting out due to an overheat die to lack of flow

Right .. read carefully and follow to the letter ..!!!! Trim your PIR to a reasonably tight fit. Lay it flat on the floor and put two lines down the board about 75mm from each side. Aim for the lines to be about 30-40mm wide. Give the foam a quick spray of water and then leave it alone for 5-6 mins. Foam will expand but stay tacky enough that when you lift it up and push it in it will stick but not push the board back out. Just hold it in place for a minute and job done.

Ok makes things easy as they are still available. Worth taking a quick photo of the towel rail valve and posting here if poss as not many TRV options for towel rails and it would give you your bypass rad otherwise you need to consider a bypass valve somewhere.