PeterW

Beams are very heavy and not easy to shift about even with a Telehandler. All but the small ones will breach manual handling limits and you will probably need machines to offload as some deliveries don’t use hiab equipped vehicles as beams can exceed the hiab limits.

The Egger glue foams more when it’s wet and I had a bit of rain before the boards went down and the joists were a bit damp. Suffice to say we had glue foaming everywhere ..!!

Will be Egger D4 foaming polyurethane flue - it’s a white bottle and the only one that Egger certify as part of the floor system.

I’ve seen this done and basically you need a pair of gate valves (one flow and one divert) and you encase the whole Y branch in concrete as it will move otherwise ..!! Can sometimes be easier to convert to iron and use flanged valves and flanged Y branches than MDPE - it’s not that expensive either.

I think there may be another way using self adhesive EDPM tape. It is definitely a drainage issue so you also need to fix that somehow too. If the frame had a slight twist in it, it will leak i expect water alter is getting in the blue arrow - can you bond all the way round with EDPM tape to the upstand and fill any initial gaps with sealant or foam ..?

Micro inverers or potentially panel optimisers.

I think from memory there are more components in the GSE solution than the EasyRoof so when you add it up there is a reasonable comparison. Still worth getting pricing on both !

I think EasyRoof is sold by Wagner - can look at the options with them..?

So... pull all but one of the ducts to the side,tape the two edges and then let the ducts back into position. Next one, next one etc. That joins all the edges. Then cut a letterbox in a spare bit, drop over the ducts and double sided tape and job done.

Is this a radon membrane under a solid slab..?? Duct tape and an off cut of membrane will work fine ..!

Nope the wine was deffo you as we all commented on how quick you could drink ..!!

We were happy with just the one can but apparently a case of Belhaven and one of McEwans was provided ....

McEwans can .....??? ?

You can ignore that ... you need an electrolyte too (ie moisture) and the aluminium is so thin anyway it would disappear long before the copper even got any thinner ... As you were - proper tidy job that !!

Is this for discharge water only ..?? If so... use a standard 300mm manhole as a discharge and bring the inlet into it on one of the side legs and then outlet down the main channel. Gives you access to put a small sample cup under the edge. And they are a damn sight cheaper than a “proper” one ..! Sample chamber within 900mm of the tank outlet at the same (700mm..??) invert depth then a pair of 45 degree bends to drop you to your already laid pipe. Remember as it’s outflow it doesn’t matter about the gradient.

Really sad news. I had the pleasure of speaking to Thomas on a few occasions when I was looking for a window supplier and he was always a great guy to talk to.

I use this Cutting List Calculator

Issue with this is where it’s installed - which is usually just below the floor finish. What you want is a slab absorbing the heat which lends to a solid floor with UFh pipe in it and a Willis heater on this - this is how @TerryE has done his.

There will be a pair of newts doing synchronized back stroke....

When I purged a HP coil I got a fair bit of noise from the tank - worth checking for air or at least checking any AAV is open correctly.

More than half way up your hole ...

You’re not the first and won’t be the last to experience the real lows, and men are less likely to talk about it. Having somewhere to talk about it, or read that it’s not just you that is having problems, is the start to being able to find a solution for yourself. Keep talking.

I stay in a hotel that has an internal window between the bathroom and the bedroom...! It doesn’t let noise through and it has a built in blind between the panes which is electric and just looks superb.

I’ve just fitted a load of oak stain acacia from Homebase. £30 a length, 28mm and oddly 2.2m long rather than 2.4m. I have had to do a number of cut outs and joins in it and decided to sand it all back and it’s changed colour completely. I’ve used Osmo Top in clear matt and it’s had 3 coats so far. It will get another following an 800 grit wet and dry rub over and that will be enough I think. In terms of quality I think it’s a decent product and an outstanding price - will see what it looks like when it’s finished ..!

Stayed in an AirBnB recently and they had done just that - it was a sloping / wedge double socket on a lead on a false back of a drawer - only pulled out 8-10” but meant you could get a charger in it and then shut the drawer too.