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PeterW

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Everything posted by PeterW

  1. PeterW
    Unless it’s in the contract then it’s legally not possible for anyone but the home owner to reclaim the VAT. They would effectively be reclaiming on behalf of the owner but using their own bank details to “claim” the refund. I can see how getting a PM to do the claim may be part of the service but given the claim could be north of £10k, I wouldn’t expect to be paying that as a bonus to any PM..!
  2. PeterW
    You can’t use a standard motor antifreeze as it’s propylene glycol which is harmful so isn’t licenced for use in potable systems. If you only use it for UFH then it may be acceptable, not sure how a sunamp would work with it - one for @AndyT I expect as there are two layers of separation between the heating medium and the potable water.
  3. PeterW
    Oddly mine is the standard charger and a 3Ah takes less than 40 mins to charge to full. I rotate the two I have and rarely run out as one gets an overnight charge and the other goes on when I have a brew.
  4. PeterW
    Surprised T&T was more expensive - added about £20 per window on mine. I also swapped the traditional outer sashes for a single middle opener with T&T hinges. Looks good and how many times to you open both outer sashes ..??
  5. PeterW
    Clear sanitary sealant is fine as it just means it has a biocide in it. And yes -just screws and nothing else ..!! You can see the joint on this one from below and above - screws into the frame in top right of the picture. These are 4x30mm so even if you sink them into the frame it won’t pierce the top. Same with the 12mm ply as joint blocks.
  6. PeterW
    Glycol is cheaper than 2 pumps and a a heat exchanger..!! I’ve got a spreadsheet that works out hon much you need somewhere if you know the loop lengths etc
  7. PeterW
    I had a fair quantity of kwikstage that got supplemented for 3 weeks with a full run of standard stuff at £800. That was for 45m at single lift plus 2 gables. If you are DIY and want flexibility then kwikstage is worth every penny.
  8. PeterW
    Wrap the MDPE in plastic, handful of cheap stainless pan scourers and then a squirt of foam to hold them all in.
  9. PeterW
    I’d included that - sorry ..! The only component at risk is the plate heat exchanger and they are partially protected by being inside the casing. Either way, protecting to -25c in UK climates seems a bit overkill.
  10. PeterW
    As @ProDave says - you can use ordinary inhibitor based antifreeze which isn’t that expensive and the volume is about 15-20% to get the cover down to -10c. It’s only really an issue if the ASHP isn’t in use and the outdoor pipes freeze - it takes water a fair while to drop to freezing point if they are insulated with 15mm of nitrile rubber insulation (35c to -2c is 9 hours from memory) so this is only really needed if the heat pump is not on for a long cold period or the power fails. I plan to use a mix of decent insulation, an amount of inhibitor and also a timed frost programme on the heat pump to run the pump every couple of hours if the outside temperature is below zero. All those should resolve any issues.
  11. PeterW
    Wood expands along its length so as long as you don’t trap both ends it will be fine. I would seal the edge / end back to the wall with clear silicone. I don’t use anything under units - just lots of 30mm screws through the frames and into the timber. A couple of clamps or heavy weights on top will flatten out any bowing before you screw it down.
  12. PeterW
    [Thread split into new one re heating design]
  13. PeterW
    Just down the road if you want a look..? 160sqm room in roof. Brick skin, 150mm blown bead, medium block and 25mm insulation to certain rooms. UFH in concrete slab. As for drying washing, stick a drying rack in the utility below the MVHR extract and it will work perfectly.
  14. PeterW
    Make it 60mm then get a bit of roofing batten and put a string on either end. Lower it into the cavity and pull it up above the ties as you go and it will catch the snots.
  15. PeterW
    Yep nothing to say they aren’t
  16. PeterW
    Not strictly true ....... 75mm is acceptable ( see H2 of Part H BRegs) as long as it only services a single WC...! But try buying the stuff ..!
  17. PeterW
    Use DPM from the likes of S’fix as it’s cheap and easy to get hold of. The trick is to make a tent - higher at the middle than the sides so rain runs off and doesn’t pool. Even a small hole then won’t let water in. Easy way is a couple of lengths of 4x2 down the middle of any roof and pull it taught down the sides and a couple of bits of timber and some long screws to clamp it. Contrary to popular belief, those blue woven tarps are not waterproof unless they are very tight.
  18. PeterW
    IIs that a detached property and the full width of the roof ..? If so, I’d be inclined to take the whole roof off and start again if you want to put front and back dormers ..? Even with just a back dormer it’s a lot of work, any of the walls below structural ..?? I doubt you can get any decent levels of insulation in those dormer cheeks as it stands. Could be simpler to put a steel at floor level and build up off that if you have space to get it in as it’s going to be a min 254 I would expect.
  19. PeterW
    Wait a few months and you’ll be able to get one in a clearance sale as they have discontinued it ....
  20. PeterW
    Don’t forget he used to work the club circuit of Swansea ....... makes you wonder what as ..! ?
  21. PeterW
    Yeh... at Howdens mark up on standard Hafele prices ...
  22. PeterW
    @recoveringacademic https://www.hafele.co.uk/en/product/pull-down-basket-shelves-two-tier-chrome-wire-gas-spring-operated-for-cabinet-width-500-or-600-mm/50459222/?MasterSKU=0000004d000165a300040023# £122 ex VAT for 4+
  23. PeterW
    Just saved me a £1500 man entry chamber and construction costs ..!! Will take it to the 1200mm max and leave it there ...
  24. PeterW
    Just checked my copies of Building Construction Handbook. The 1998 version says 1:40 to 1:80 for 4” / 110mm pipes for domestic and lateral drains and 1:60 to 1:100 for 6” / 150mm laterals and “Minor Sewers”. 2009 version says minimum 1:80 for smaller and 1:100 for larger and no maximum. So looks like somewhere in that 11 year period it changed ..! Wasn’t there a 2002 BRegs update ..? Edited to add I’ve been right back to 1991 and the same flow table is in each version with no maximum and even shows the graph for 1:10 gradient flow rate....
  25. PeterW
    Right ..!! Hafele do loads of this stuff - look on their website. Much cheaper than buying with a retailer premium. I was thinking along the lines of pull down ironing boards and those tables you get in caravans ..!!
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