PeterW

That’s because you’re 7’3”..... I think I’ve managed 920mm and it’s surprising the small difference it does make.

Got an idea of what you’re looking for as I’m slightly lost on pull down shelving ..??

You know where to send the cheque...

Is this just to set a level at certain points ..?? I would use a water level, or hire a theodolite and staff and do it with that.

https://vargopipes.co.uk/system-components-pipes/

@Nickfromwales have you tried Ecopex from Vargo..??

JTM are £36 inc VAT for 25m About the cheapest I’ve found it

I wouldn’t want anything as highly flammable as a Li-On battery pack of unknown provenance in my house.... I understand the logic however I’m not sure how you would get to a product that an insurer would accept as a low enough risk to not cause a massive hike in premium.

Unscrew the vent, tape over and put them back ... job done ..!

Materials and Labour yes - scalable to an extent ... You need a price per square metre of wall to work from and then work up to a laid price for estimating.

Efficiency on panels is in the top teens to low twenties anyway. A 20% reduction would be from 20-16% so I wouldn’t be concerned.

Are they all perfectly sized ..?? On a pure technicality, you should either use a Fensa registered installer or get BCO sign off for windows.... but that’s up to you... ?

Nothing really gained on the thermal performance front with enclosed ends on joists as it’s air infiltration that is the issue. The “Tony Tray” sorts this, as does the use of hangers. Long decrement delay insulation is keynto stability of temperature.

8x8m brick and block 2 storey detached with single spanning structural internal ground floor wall. So approx 120sqm of brick, 140sqm block. With a brick at £450/Thou and a standard 3.5N block that should be easily from founds to wall plate for £20k.

Any new stove needs a hearth, even if it is a piece of 10mm glass to mark out where it is. As I understand it, the reason is for someone with impaired vision to identify that there is a stove. The link @Onoff provided is pretty clear on it so should help.

They are part of the equipotential bonding - or making sure that if you stick fingers in a socket and grab a tap at the same time you don’t fry.... Lots of regs have changed - @JSHarris can you give a layman’s explanation as to what they are for ..?

Wires are grounding wires and I’m not sure if you even need them on plastic - @ProDave what’s the rules on this ..? Can they go onto an isolated copper pipe that has Hep2O on either end ..?

Hep2O has no clips or locks to do - it’s inherently safe as to release it you need a key that pushes the collar that is protected by the outer shroud. Push - twist - pull to see it is fitted properly.

Its probably cost. A thin joint system requires extras such as dual lintels and specialist ties along with secondary processes to put in joist hangers with a precision that needs skill. If you add £1k per unit into a large development then it probably outweighs the benefits as the cost of the shell is probably no more than £20k.

Just a thought ... any chance of getting a back boiler fitted to the stove ..? It would drive the heat around the building and start to dry it out or at least warm the fabric. What is on the downstairs floors ..? Carpet or something else ..??

Thin joint is a wet system that relies on the mortar “glue” bond for its strength so is only fully structural when the glue is set and all the structural elements including any perpendicular walls are compete for racking strength. TF has the structural strength built into its components as it goes, and the size of these modules means that it is comparatively easy to build a strong structure quickly. Consider the other key point in that most of the joints in TF are timber to timber and (with the exception of glued floors) have 100% strength immediately after construction. As @epsilonGreedy says, the European market for this sort of system is reasonably mature but a lot of this is down to the external finishing. Traditional brick in the UK lends itself to the same modular sizing (1 block / 6 bricks) so ties, corners and openings are easy to manage, as is coursing. European finishes such as render on carrier and cladding don’t have the same dependency on the block / brick ratio so this means they have the ability to adopt this method.

Probably get 20-30 in the basket as long as you’re not a complete pie queen like @Nickfromwales as they have a maximum basket weight limit... fabric slide would work too if you have a catcher.

You just need a way of getting them certified and serviced safely .... I wouldn’t want to be stuck 14m in the air..!!

You should get a Nifty towable for £150-200 for a weekend. Dead easy to operate and have a 12/7m reach so more than enough - used one to repoint a chimney as scaffold was going to be £600...

Have you got a scaffold to take the tiles off ..?? Sometimes makes it easier to reach, other way is a cherry picker. A Nifty 120 will easily reach the centre of a roof.