PeterW

Just had my new card and not impressed either ..! Was also annoyed that they have started hiding their multi buy discounts that actually make things worth buying. Will be interested to see if trade does stay with them as they need to keep up with TS and Wickes. Only real reason I keep going back is that I can get sheet material cut down for free ..!!

Disconnect the duct at the Unit end and pull a piece of wool through from the room with a Hoover. Now pull decent string through and tie a rag or J-cloth onto the string and pull it though the duct. You will see from the cloth if there are any issues.

Just leave the PB - you’ll never see it !

Why the change to a combi ..?? First thing to check is water pressure and flow. That will give you an idea if you have a site suitable for combi. How many showers / baths..?? Are you expecting the installer to change the system to a pressurised system ..? How old are the rads..? I would hazard a guess that the BG quote for new WB 30kw or similar combi with a power flush, tank removal and sealed system conversion will be shy of £6k installed. They will insist on power flush and probably replacing all the TRVs. If your controls aren’t up to date then you will probably get £500 added for that... Get the whiskey bottle ready..!

Tbh in this situation I would ask them anyway. The amusing bit is that if you start before transferring liability then the current holder is liable for the CIL... it’s as much a seller responsibility to transfer as the buyer. I would expect that they will identify the full amount at the point of full PP. Don’t forget either that it’s not retrospective and if they miss it off the PP or fail to provide the liability notice then they cannot charge.

Drop £20k into premium bonds too.. no guarantee of a return but easy access and in reality can return 2-5%

Spot on that !! Well done ! small bits of board will be fine if they are onto a solid surface such as insulation. No Nails or similar here to stick them back to the wall.

What do you mean by part 7 form 1 ..? Have you got a link ..? Your location may also help too .. ?

Most councils say 3 years for the exemption

Welcome Claire If you check the council website it will tell you what they will charge. Liability is only assigned when full planning is granted, and you can then invoke the self builder exemption. There is a letter or a statement on the planning permission that clearly identify the CIL charge.

Just leave a gap for the pipe. And you can always put another piece at the bottom of the wall - bit of filler and job done.

So in the interests of sharing what I have been provided by a very helpful IVT support engineer : The A-inputs acts like a “binary staircase”. So each signal is either on or off, 24V (not PWM). Step A1 A2 A3 Power 0 0 0 0 0% 1 0 0 1 30% 2 0 1 0 42% 3 0 1 1 53% 4 1 0 0 65% 5 1 0 1 77% 6 1 1 0 88% 7 1 1 1 100% For the B-outputs : B3 B2 Operating mode 1 1 Normal 1 0 Restricted 0 1 Defrost 0 0 Failure/Power off Looking at the wiring, A5 and B1 are bridged to a common point (need to confirm 24v or GND) which leaves the A4 terminal all lonely .... Anyone hazard a guess as to what it actually does ..? I think cooling ..! Just to add to this, these are the DIP switch settings : I will share the service manual for the Mitsubishi unit if anyone wants it but it’s avaialble online

@DeeJunFan @readiescards @joe90 These have a fairly simple binary output tree - if I get more info I will let you know. Other issue is there is a set of DIP switches that control the defrost cycle - switch one and two must be off....

So... The IVT unit is from the IVT AirCombo 60 that they no longer sell. IVT have been really helpful - it’s apparently a rebadged (wait for it .....) Mitsubishi Unit as used in the Ecodan series ..! Correct model is the PUHZ-W90VHA, however it interfaces with the rather nice Ecodan controller that is north of £900.... The A terminals are inputs, the B terminals are error or output. Just trying to get some more info on what each one is as it’s not that complicated to use by the look of it and it’s either PMW or 0-24v on one of those pins And @JSHarris it has a cooling function too..!

I couldn’t possibly comment....

Provide samples to the planning office of all the ones that are options. Just mark them A B C etc and ask which is acceptable. Then use the one you want anyway ... ?

Sorry, hadn’t realised she was an M&E Engineer, you should have said ... Doing it properly may mean a few changes but they are all for the right reasons. A lot of your issues are because things have been done wrong in the past so fixing them now is the best way otherwise you are creating problems down the line.

I was born in a similar bungalow ..! Block work and render off the shelf plans ..! I’m not sure how many people use that sort of plan vs an off the shelf design that includes a build element such as those from the likes of Design & Materials (D&M) or similar. The pure plan suppliers still need a lot of work from what I’ve seen as they also need more detailed plans for building regs unless they have changed the packages so you’ve got an element of design still needed and you’re starting from a compromise design anyway. An AT should be able to produce a draft design fairly cheaply for you if it’s just for OPP.

Odd that they didn’t glue anyway as it’s how they create a stressed member using a full surface bond to the top of the joists. I put the odd nail in each board with the Paslode but other than that it’s all glued. I had to make a couple of openings slightly bigger and where it had bonded on it took chunks out of the joist surface as it was pulled up. We also cross boarded an existing floor and lifted it with 3x2 trimmer joists and glued that and I’m amazed how much stronger that feels to the old 22mm chipboard that was just nailed on

Ok so the PP refers to after the build, that’s a pretty stringent set of restrictions and I’m assuming the conservation officer wrote most of them... ask if you can build a brick privy as that’s got to be in keeping with the period ..! TBH I wouldn’t go with a shed as a tool store as your local light fingered fraternity will relieve you of the tools within it I expect within a week... small container is the way to go - you can buy demountable ones that have a resale value of virtually what you will pay for it so it’s a good investment to sell at the end and doesn’t need lifting into place.

I would seriously consider building in 140mm block or even 2 courses of 100mm block inside the portal frame and then add a lot of EWI to the outside. It’s quick, relatively cheap and means you don’t need to worry about cold bridging from the floor into the steels. I would also be concerned about noise through the portal frame gaps as it will travel and that insulation type won’t help much. ICF is another good DIY option and then you could encase the frame in the ICF and make it a semi-warm frame.

Errr ... they can’t stop you if it’s ancilliary to building the property ! Unless there is a clause in your planning permission that specifically excludes temporary buildings during construction then you can build anything you like as long as it’s deemed temporary. Also, a garden shed or greenhouse does not need planning permission as long as it is to the rear of a property in a conservation area - only to the side or front elevation unless specifically removed at PP. Rules here As others have said, build the garage first and use it as practice along with using for storage.

You may struggle to get an engineering brick in anything but red or blue - the slight glossy finish is partly down to the firing temperature and the clay mix becoming more glass like and less brick texture. There is a good sample of different colours of Class B engineering bricks here

I used imperial engineering bricks direct from TP - cost about 10p more than the same metric brick but they were reds and not staff blues.

Tanking would be a last resort for me. Have you also confirmed that CT1 is suitable for bedding the roof lights as the last one I saw fitted used 2 beads of structural silicon on opposing edges with a zigzag infil between the lines - from memory it was 2 tubes per roof light and they were 600 square. I don’t think you have enough on if you could pull that frame up and I’m not sure CT1 is the correct sealant as your EPDM goes over the upstand and not just up the sides.