PeterW

Yeh 400 is only w&d normally so that’s why I said it. Leave the sink as is and just wipe it dry when you’ve washed up.... I’ve seen expensive sinks do similar so don’t worry ..!!!

Fit a second stat for her on the wall .... just don’t wire it into anything ....

Also be aware a lot of the cheaper units aren’t ErP certified so may not pass building regs if they check closely...

Lots out there - depends on budget you have and the heat need. This is an example.

May help you. Cladding Calculator Whats the area for both cladding and render ..?

That doesn’t look good !!

That sounds well over the top..!! Have you looked at Cedral ..?

Spare sealant on the surface will scrape off with a blade. Then oil a couple more times. I’d get into the habit of clearing and oiling the surface once a month and it will build up a nice coating - I was surprised how water beaded on it even just with 2 coats. Just need to sort those walls and splash backs and you’ve cracked it ..! Probably have this finished before @Onoff gets a wall tile on ....

I’d go with 400 grit wet and dry (used dry) with a soft block and just de-nib the surface. Its fibres that have been lifted as the oil has been absorbed.

Cracking job well done !! Now get 3 or 4 coats of oil on that wood

Plate under the joint with some ply and glue it on and screw it on top like the photo I posted.

Never considered ice cubes @Cpd..!! Could even make a pair of ice “rails” that could be sized to fit.

I’m sure @Nickfromwales had a link to an inverter that could hard limit the output to the grid

At 500kg I would use a pallet truck not a dolly as that will break under the load ..!! You can lift a fair weight with a long enough lever - I would use a pallet truck to put it into place but resting on 4x2 rails either side that run a little over half way back. Put your sand / cement under the centre carefully and level it. Use a block and a long length of 4x2 to pivot the hearth up at the front and get someone to pull the side rails out as it will sit down at the back and then lower it down. It will probably slip off the 4x2 lever so be ready for it when it gets close to the floor...!!

Biscuits aren’t the only option - yes they will make it stronger but a ply plate works just as well.

Lean on the front edge and get it level then put 4 or 5 screws along the edge into the frame. Then put some weight across the back edge which will now have kicked up by probably 6-8mm and just leave it alone and go find something else to do for a day. It will start to settle back down I expect.

1.5 T&E and clearly label each wire...

I’ve sanded around 12m of this stuff with a 6” Makita DA with just the normal catch bag on it and it’s fine - work up from 60/80 to 120 and 240 but keep the speed down to start with. The epoxy filler they use in knots and gaps (black when you start) goes grey when you sand it but as soon as you oil it the black colour returns. If you do need to fill any gaps, keep the sanding residue from the sander. Mix with a bit of waterproof PVA and it soon blends in when you sand it back.

That is essentially what I have ended up doing. In a couple of places there are ripples in the individual blocks that make up the complete surface and it looks like it’s been hand finished rather than machined to a consistent thickness. I’ve done both an end butt joint and a couple of L joints so I’ve either biscuit jointed or glued and plated the joints - or both ! @zoothorn don’t throw out what you have done so far as it’s fine - I think you will be surprised how much you can pull the surface down with some screws. Have you got a decent bit of 4x2 or something that you know is flat to try and straighten the joint end to begin with..??

I doubt it is. 2.5mm over 600mm is probably showing as -+/-5mm so within tolerance for solid wood. At £30 a unit I don’t think Homebase will be interested.

Can you draw in where the new 2 port valves are as it’s not 100% clear where the new system is connected

5mm bow sounds a lot - is it really that much..?? you could temporarily pull it down using screws from the cabinet below and then unscrew it and fit the biscuits. Would work to an extent I expect. Second block in on the picture at the back is because this is a 3 way join - had to extend the first piece to 2.5m before creating the join. No biscuits in the L join, just in the end. Acacia behaves as both a softwood and a hardwood - it will sand back with a DA using 60 grit pretty quickly if you need to level it off. Don’t be afraid to force it into shape for a day or two before fixing it into its final position

Correct on both counts @newhome.!!

Yep It was 9 zones with air temps and 2 with floor probes, main bathroom and master ensuite.

@Incipiens Mox to answer the first part though - a main contractor should zero rate their part of the build, any incidental items purchased by the owner that meet the reclaim criteria would still be claimable at the end.