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Found 9 results

  1. My distribution box for the MVHR ( sometimes called spigot box or manifold) will sit beneath a flat roof , but above a ceiling. The roof build up from top down is; Alvitra Avalon over 270mm of insulation on some super expensive vapour stuff - forgotten the name - the price was so traumatic 22mm OSB3 POSIs above the ceiling build up which is Vapour control layer 25mm insulation 12 mm plasterboard 2mm plaster skim. There's enough space for spigot boxes to sit comfortably under the POSIs. That means they are outside the heated envelope. (just) The supplier says not to worry : but they would wouldn't they? Everyone has that problem, said the rep, What do you think?
  2. Hi all, I am just completing a conversion but hired professionals for UFL. What I find strange is that the manifold (RED) is in the kitchen, and all sections (4 excluding kitchen) go through the kitchen floor and not through the staircase (behind the kitchen) and therefore leaving the potential to overheat the kitchen, when all areas are on and kitchen is already at temperature. Should't they have taken into consideration that the kitchen is potentially the warmest place in the house and it will become a potential sauna? Also the Manifold is right behind the oven and stove. Can I should I insulate the pipes from the screed? Will lay down normal sand+cement screed... Any pointers really appreciated. Thanks
  3. Just deciding on some aspects of my plumbing and will be using the manifold for my H&C system. Question I have is why have people chosen the manifold with isolation valves over the non isolation valve ones which are quite a bit cheaper? Is it just to be able to isolate individual pipes or is there something more to it? If I chose the non valve ones I could still put one isolation valve at the inlet which I know would isolate the entire manifold but that in itself would not be a problem. TIA
  4. Hi, I will email the heating engineer in the morning, but if anyone knows a simple fix I can try it today. We have 4 UFH manifolds, all has been fine until Friday. The kitchen seemed cold. I thought the thermostat maybe wasn't calling for heat correctly and checked that out. It still seemed to be slow warming up, so I went to the manifold and turned the flow up slightly. What seems to be happening is that if you turn the flow up past a certain point the water stops flowing. Basically any higher than 2 on the mixer which is 22-23C and the flow stops. Even then I had to jack the pump up to maximum to get much flow. The other manifolds are set between 36 and 42 and running as expected. Probably wasn't an issue until the temperature dropped below zero. Any thought?
  5. I've just laid out my underfloor heating pipes prior to pouring the concrete in my insulated raft foundation slab. Ideally, I'd like to pressurise the pipes before the concrete is poured, so that any damage/leaks would be apparent. I thought easy! Just buy a manifold online, job done! Wrong! There are so many options and the more I think about it the more confused I get. I'm building a well-insulated house which faces South, so My thoughts were that I'd fit UFH into the ground floor slab to allow heating of the living space. The bedrooms would be unheated as they are on the upper floors and hopefully should be cooler. I've not even started to think about the design of DHW and heating system! I'm after a Six zone manifold, but depending on my final heating/cooling system design I might want to expend it to eight zones. I want to do both heating and cooling, Do I need a special manifold? Do I want thermostatically controlled mixing or a simple manual mixing.valve? Pumped or not? Thoughts?
  6. Hi All, More questions I'm afraid. I'm going down the route of a manifold water distribution system. I'm using the 16mm PERT-a_Pert pipe as I'm running the pipe in the concrete passive slab and it will withstand a bit more abuse when going in. Also it was recommended by the supplier as being better. I'm presuming that I will need to use a 16->15mm reducer every where I connect on to bathroom fittings etc. as almost all fittings I'm looking at buying have 15mm connectors. Thoughts appreciated. Feel free to question my sanity as I'm doing it quite a bit myself these days anyway Thanks, Ed
  7. I am sorting out the 30yr old central heating and would like some help deciding on the two options It is a 3 storey Victorian house with 4 bedroom and 2 bath Option 1 Keep all radiators upstairs and link them to a single programmable thermostat with TRVs UFH downstairs and a single radiator, all running off an Emmeti manifold which allows control of the radiator and UFH separately Option 2 Keep all radiators upstairs but each room on a separate loop controlled via its own thermostat running off a manifold (Same as option 1)UFH downstairs and a single radiator, all running off an Emmeti manifold which allows control of the radiator and UFH separately The second option is more expensive as it requires new plumbing so each room are on a separate loop, thermostats, manifold costs etc. however, this option allows me to add a wet UFH to each of the bathrooms with some degree of control Is option 2 an overkill?
  8. Hi I was just wondering is there a benfit to getting the premium pump set as opposed to the standard? Diff of about £30-40 thanks ed
  9. Excerpt from a previous thread. A member asked..... Hi, I'm currently in progress with gutting, extending and refitting my 50's semi including all plumbing, electrics etc. Stud partition walls have been ripped out, upstairs floors are (almost) up, ceilings down, downstairs ceilings coming down and concrete ground floor being dug up.. I pretty much have a blank canvas on which to work having moved out a few weeks ago. The idea is to have full UFH downstairs and radiators upstairs, with ideally an unvented cylinder to supply hot water to a bathroom and ensuite. The boiler and unvented cyclinder are to go in the loft. Due to the completely different location of the new boiler, and relocated mains water feed, all downstairs plumbing is to be re-done and the only worthwhile plumbing that could remain is the loop that feeds three radiators on the first floor. I have a couple of questions - Would it be best to re-do all plumbing for heating and dhw / cold water in plastic pipe or to reinstate in copper? What are the relative merits of doing either? It would be nice to have the visible pipework for the rads in copper and I'm guessing that with plastic I'd save quite a bit of time and cost not requiring earthing of all pipework. The other question is around the spec of a boiler. If I wish to have UFH and rad circuits along with an unvented cycinder (the latter is not critical but I think would be better due to wanting a power shower and such like) what kind of spec boiler am I going to be requiring? Any pointers on this lot would be very much appreciated.