PeterW

No - that sort of pushfit seal is fine underground.

50mm is 50mm ... outside of a socket is probably closer to 56mm but that is wall thickness. This is the adapter you need underground. Put it so the adapter is at the top of the tee branch to stop it collecting crud ..... 50/110mm adapter

No.1.... use 50mm not 40mm No.2.... can you not get a 110mm direct under the shower and save yourself the hassle ..?? No.3... strap boss is a no-no, use a tee and a reducing insert if you have to.

If you want steps and a big platform then you’ll need planning - that is not a non-material amendment. What they will be expecting is a balcony about 18” wide and 6ft long , not something that you can have a hot tub party on it ..!!! You can can do something like a small balcony using a wall plate and hangers with a timber top and balustrade, or something like this ..?? Cast Spirals

@romario fold over both sides, stick a 215mm DPC on top then lay your mortar and blocks. You don’t need mortar under a DPM or DPC. If its difficult to get it to stay, use some lengths of duct tape to join both sides together and then get the DPC on top.

Nope but when I used to deal with council BCOs it pays to know the regs ..... Easily fixed and a slope here is your friend. I would move the door to the “window” end of the room too, should be a non-material amendment and makes it easier to get a decent slope and not have steps near the current house.

No reason for steps down other than beware of flooding - you may want to make it a level entrance and then steps further along the path and put adequate drainage. And you can use PIR but it’s twice the price.

Thermal Store tends to be a higher storage temperature and also needs to have a higher storage volume for the same DHW volume. As the store temperature is higher, heat losses are higher. You can get them with custom amounts of insulation - Newark Copper let you specify and you can also get it to 100mm or more if requested. If you want to not have a whole house softener, consider something like a combiphos unit, or even fit a double inline filter unit and go 5 micron then siliphos in a pair of 10" filter housings. I'm filtering at the main sink and a drinking water tap using a 10" filter with activated carbon inserts. They are about £15 for the unit, filters are much cheaper than a Brita.

BS:62305 is your friend here for bed time reading. You would need to go to someone like Furse for the sort of protection you are looking for, but if you look at the data, it is something that is entirely irrelevant in the UK http://www-public.tnb.com/eel/docs/furse/BS_EN_IEC_62305_standard_series.pdf

The problem is that once you do, you need to have a maintenance contract to maintain it. They need inspecting every year, and they need a proper decent earth spike to make them work effectively. I’ve done them on a big steel roof but that had 2.5m rods installed at 4 corners into the ground to meet the resistance requirements. Buildings such as houses are remarkably low risk when it comes to lighting strikes.

Tanking paste under it, then use a squeegee or plastic scraper to press the cuff on. Then let it dry and add another coat on top.

What size....? Decent rads are £50-70 for a 4x3 room, TRV is £12 for a decent one. Go to designer rads and you will be north of £200 per rad.

Ok so my understanding is screw or helical piles are exempt and are designed not to disturb the ground. What however is happening is a lot of a##e covering from the insurance industry and PWA surveyors where this is just not needed. I would ask a solicitor because the PWA is very clear on excavations and special foundations and screw piles are not mentioned.

Heat output and storage capacity varies by model. Have you got the model number for the heaters..??

Depends how far down you are digging, and if there is anything attached to the boundary wall (assuming it is a wall and his).

@Mike_scotland there is one on Plotsearch today. Aberlemno ..?? Full PP, I’ve pinged you the link on a PM

Mostly because fitting very thick insulated plasterboard is costly and complicated versus the standard method of using full fill panels. The cost of 130mm PUR is probably less than the cost of 85mm plus 45mm insulated plasterboard as that needs 75mm board screws and makes creating service voids a pain. You could internally batten and line the whole frame with 50mm insulation but then your frame depth would now be 174mm to get a similar insulation value. Structurally an 89mm frame is fine to 2 storey anyway, it’s the rest of the components that are going to add to cost.

Looks like a standard Simpson StrongTie JHM. They have a hole at the bottom on either side for a single retaining nail. They are heavy galvanised so sometimes this appears filled.

What insulation thickness are they quoting ..? 89mm of insulation can’t get close to regs unless there is another 40-50mm inside ..?

@AnonymousBosch you’ll find CT1 just as good as SikaFlex, or go with clear StixAll which is Sika in a different tube. I pay £6.30 a tube for CT1 so no extortionate.

So that’s fine. Assume you are then talking about the ground slab which needs nothing if it’s a storeroom but really I’d suggest some element of insulation only if it’s 100mm of polystyrene to keep the chill from the floor.

Because a 6mm trowel is a comb. If you apply correctly, you will get 6mmx6mm adhesive stripes separated by 6mmx6mm voids. Same on the floor means you won’t get a 12mm bed as the adhesive on the tile will fill the voids on the floor .... or near enough ...

It will end up at 8mm most. A 6mm trowel leaves 6mm grooves. If you butter and groove then back, you’ll get a bit of build but not 12mm.

Ok - you will need a minimum of 250mm of floor insulation, not 50mm as that is for sound insulation between floors in a heated building. The room below is classed as an unheated space, so you will need to insulate the intermediate floor space as though it is a ground floor. That is building regulations.

Nope - stick the warnings up, don’t let anyone alter it, and let them know it’s their responsibility ....