PeterW

8 3.5w LED over an island, 10 across the rest of the room in a 6.5x3.5m space. All on and it’s bright ....! Not dimmable either. Just done another with 8 5w LED panel lights, a 4 LED bar over the hob and a recessed (and dimmable) LED strip in the shelf over a counter. Works very well and gives different options.

I nearly went 250mm EPS until I found some 150mm PUR on Seconds & Co at a cheap price. Was easier than digging down another 100mm.

What spacing on the joists..?

It will take well over 60 days - but you need to glue it right and make sure you’ve got a plan to get to roof within 4-5 months. Summer is better than winter obviously ....

Floors first as plasterboard should end 10-20mm above the floor.

So.... to get the same surface area of a standard heat exchanger (40sqm) you would need a tube of around 210m long ........ I’d fit an ordinary extractor and move on ...

Because you have a tube ... that’s it ..!! Surface area of two tubes, laminar flow, thickness of material etc etc. There is just not enough flow to surface to get anything like any transfer of heat.

Agree but that’s the problem with Virgin cable is that you have to use their kit unless you start adding loads more WiFi access points etc after the router. Biggest problem was the self diagnostics and tbh the TiVo box had a 9m clear line of sight and still couldn’t get more than 53% signal strength ..!!

That beer can heat exchanger will just cause condensation and will be about 3% efficient if that..... Just extract the moist air and let the cool air feed in from under the door.

Walk in shower set into the floor ... level is the same +3mm of the tiles around and it’s sealed down to stop any leaks. Floor is also tanked around the edge and the shower tray recess. Wet rooms are ok if you design the structure around them and they have a strong floor to start with - joists at 400mm centres, screwed and glued boards etc

Anything other than P5 is a false economy anyway - you never know where you may get a leak and you’ll save £150..?? You need the Egger D4 glue and plenty of pairs of gloves as it goes everywhere as it foams up. Anyone working below should really wear a hat and clothes they don’t like ..!!! Ask @AnonymousBosch about getting it out of clothes... We did a deck with it in early April, and put the final roof on in August and it had some pretty grim amounts of rain - pools of water and a quick brush off and it’s down the stairwell..! You glue the joints and it makes it pretty watertight - I had one seam that seems a little raised in a bedroom but a quick whizz over with a DA and the edge has gone.

Shame the TiVo kit and the new V3 boxes are rubbish ..!! Had the whole lot taken out a couple of weeks ago as the system performance was shocking ..! The new WiFi strength algorithm and channel shifting was written by a 5 year old as it just doesn’t work ....

IMHO that’s a mistake. Glue and bond Egger protect to the joists as they are fitted and it will make the floor structure much stronger and safer for working. Looking at that layout, £100 would pay for the extra on the Egger and it’s a job done once.

I did wonder about the strength in the dowel system that they used as it seemed a bit “rustic”....

@nod this is the end process ..!!!! You have to submit another form within 6 months at the end of the build or have to pay the lot...!!

Welcome ..! Assuming you have a copy of the VAT claim form, I would submit the front page with the project details and then the acknowledgement along with a note saying it can take up to x weeks for payment. This shows that you have completed and done as requested - if they want proof of the approved claim and it’s outside the 6 months due to HMRC having issues then you have much better ground for appeal that you had taken reasonable steps.

Have BT told you that ..??! BT own PlusNet, and porting is done by a common system that allows it to be done on the same day... it’s even on BTs website that they can port from PlusNet ..!!

Probably not as they need to go past the opening and you’re saying it’s a party wall ..? I’d be looking to leave a stub wall as per @Carrerahill

@Alex what are the options for rerouting pipework ..?? ideally you need a balanced hot and cold from a control set, and then prior to this you can tee off the toilets etc to a dedicated low volume flow. This can be done either with a restriction at the beginning or use Ballofix valves at each cistern to slow the fill. Do you have restrictors on the taps too..?? Can help if you put low flow heads on them as it doesn’t affect the shower as much.

Thats not a view I share given I’ve seen a fair number of main contractors go to the wall, as they are running ever decreasing margins and the subs costs are going up. Cost of money - and restriction on credit levels - is a big issue with main contractors and it only takes a single late VAT payment to start a downward spiral. Agree your stages carefully, agree the payment points carefully, and try and balance what is reasonable vs keeping your main contractor in business. You may find materials pricing for example is a few percent higher through them than you can buy however do not be surprised if they add 3-5% for handling your goods if you purchase. They still have to handle, unload and potentially use items that they may not have requested as you’ve “saved money” by buying cheap but not exactly yo spec. I’m aware of a situation where this happened and the customer purchased 1100m of 4x2 carcassing “cheaper” than the contractor had quoted. They “saved” £600 on the contractor quote which was fine until it transpired it was all 2.1m lengths ...... and all stud walls were 2.4m high ... total additional cost above the contractor quoted value was around £800 as it had to be used as couldn’t be returned and more had to be purchased to complete the job in addition to what was supplied ...

I’ve done 28m with no issues and an isolator switch on either end. The one on the meter end has a fuse in, the one on the CU end was just an isolator as only protecting 400mm of tails.

4.... and use resin bolts or anchors to fix the plate. Then use timber joist hangers

Nope .... it’s because they are fitted as a like for like KW rating by people who used to sell solar panels or the last green fad the government cancelled ... There is no issue at all putting an ASHP in to replace a gas or oil boiler as long as the limiting factors are understood. The key is flow temp vs flow rate with an ASHP which unless you get to the very large capacity (ie 30Kw 3 phase units) you cannot get the delta temperature/flow rates that a traditional rad system needs. DHW provision is another completely separate issue and needs to be revisited with ASHP but again as RHI majors on the heading load first, it all gets very messy. As long as the heat lost < heat input then an ASHP is fine - it’s when you can’t input the heat fast enough (within a time period) then the problems occur.

Pretty standard with kit houses whether they are timber frame or SIP as the whole structure is engineered as one. It’s only standard brick / block that tends to use separate steel calculations.

Frost protection ..? Basically if the slips aren’t frost proof they will spall in the winter.