PeterW

Google ....!!

You can get a brand new UPVC frame and composite door to fit that gap for change of £900 - why is the aluminium one coming in so expensive..???

If you want down to 2mins/hour then you probably need something like this - usually used on hydroponics of all things ..!! The heat loss from a lagged 22mm pipe is negligible, it’s all a matter of cost vs convenience

Yes however which pipe do you put it in ..?? By the time it’s kicked in as someone has opened a tap, the water will nearly be there anyway.

There already are. Geberit do a sensor tap as do others, the downside with them though is they use blended temperature water so no use for a kitchen tap. I’ve fitted a Mira Mode shower recently where it’s controlled by a button or an app, and the dual flow ones also have the benefit of a combined overflow bath filler so there are no taps on show at all. Very neat and needs a single feed from the shower unit that can be elsewhere - even in a plant room. I have a dislike of the floor standing taps as they can get used as a handle to assist someone getting out of a bath and that can cause major issues - they are not designed to be pulled on, and I’ve seen floor tiles cracked due to point loads from them too.

The most important one is actually the cold feed especially if it’s copper as you will get condensation on it and that will drip and cause water marks. Hot runs being insulated means you don’t overheat areas where there is a lot of pipe work.

It’s on a commercial building and it runs 6am - 11pm, and is one of the rotary ones so actually runs 15mins/hr as that’s the minimum you can set. It took about £350 off the electricity bill in its first year as it used to empty the hot water tank if you weren’t careful when on permanently.

Thinking of using a few Orange Pi Zero boards as PoE powered end points. Useful little platform and one cable and job done.

Unfortunately that isn’t how the rules work, so you’re limited unless you get planning permission.

Eyewateringly expensive crap unless you buy the Hep2O one, and then it’s just eyewateringly expensive ... Every hole you drill will have to be 50mm - that may compromise some of your joists. No-one makes a cover for elbows or tees, so you will have to buy a different product to do these. Buy self seal nitrile rubber insulation and just do it yourself when it’s installed. I could probably do a whole house in less than a day.

You need around 2min/hour run time on these, and they need to be lagged. Constant is a waste of money, as are proximity sensors per room. Simple rotary timer on a bronze pump

It needs to be slightly wider for better performance - go with 150mm cavity. And yes, clear cavity, use proper cavity closers on the openings and then it’s pumped in through 25mm holes. Can’t recommend anyone down there to do it, sorry

Hope you’ve got a nice installation video of that bit ....

Graphite EPS has a slightly better uValue to ordinary EPS bead. Both are blown and bonded as there is a glue sprayed onto them as they are installed.

If you are looking at an 80sqm footprint, on good ground and with just the founds, drains and slab then if you are above £12k you need a serious check on costs !! Foundations are a small part of the cost - with traditional build, most are hitting around 60/40 split on structure to fit out so you have a lot of challenges even when out of the ground. However.... If you start, the number of mortgage companies that will lend to you will decrease and you may struggle to get funding.

Use a standard Cat5E cable, which you can buy from eBuyer or CPC in varying lengths so you don't need to crimp any terminals. They then plug into a waterproof connector attached to the camera.

is it wired correctly..?? May be worth taking the front off the box and checking the wiring on the control box. Post a photo and let me know. You will need to set one of the DIP switches on the main board to read the LED read out on the unit itself. Let me know if you need the manual (its a rebadged mitsubishi btw)

Most insurers only accept monitored and maintained alarms as a discount, and the discount is buttons..

HikVision have wireless cameras, still need a decent power cable. Once you've run power you may as well go for POE cameras as you get power and comms on the same wire, and no issues if your wifi router fails.

These things are dead simple - it sounds like @DeeJunFan has a wiring issue on the unit though, as the control unit on these is very basic. It is 4 wires, A1-3 and A5 and once A5 is disconnected then the heat pump will not run. @DeeJunFan do you have a separate pump in addition to the manifold, and how is this controlled..??

Rothenberger.. Rocut Cutters

Always use JTM Plumbing for bulk online orders, and Screwfix for bits. https://www.jtmplumbing.co.uk/ Is this DHW etc..?? Anything non heating related you can use non barrier. Oh, and when running it through walls, buy some lengths of 21.5mm overflow pipe and drill 22mm holes - sleeve the pipe through with this. Don't forget some decent cutters ...

I take it you read their reviews first ...? They sell a lot of grey import stuff that isn’t sold in the UK hence why the problem. How much was it out of interest ..??

@8ball did you buy that off eBay ..?? Its an old stock number, the current version is 150.554.21.1 for that drain from looking at the current product guide. The correct UK version with the connector is 150.555.21.1 which has the connector for a 40mm pushfit pipe fitted as standard.

You can’t do the cladding like that - it needs an air gap and a drained cavity so you can’t fill fill.