PeterW

Wouldn’t bother with one - they let cold air in !

It is all in Part Q of the Building Regulations https://assets.publishing.service.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/443221/BR_PDF_AD_Q_2015.pdf

So bear in mind you will need to pay for a Section 50 Highways agreement and the section 106 connection agreement that is around £950 of your costs before you start. 4.4m into the carriageway is more than half a lane, so you will need traffic management - that’s about £120 a day, so will be £600 If the contractor is quoting to also include the demarcation chamber at the property edge, you can say that is £750 installed. So £2300 of your £5600 is just for the basics. £300/m to dig and reinstate the road, and you’re probably left at about £1800 in the end that is materials, plant, labour and profit. That doesn’t sound too unreasonable to me.

May not help as ST put a flow restrictor in the meter unit so you get limited flow until they have seen sign off for the plumbing work

You won’t get insulation into the webs so don’t try. Much easier to get the sparky to run first fix now and then insulate around it

It’s not a smart meter. Severn Trent fitted Landis & Gyr meters in the 1990’s and early 2000’s and these have a remote reader head that looks a bit like a black plastic container lid with 3 lugs on it. These are being phased out to be replaced with boundary box meters that have the whole lot at the isolator point for the meter and the stop tap You need to just lay the pipe from your point at which it enters the house to the boundary where ST identify the connection point, plus about 3 metres. That’s about £1/m to buy so there is no real saving in providing it to ST and also you have the issue if it’s damaged and it leaks (on their side of the meter) then basically there would be an argument as to liability.

Sparks should run his cables in the webs and then you can go over / under the wires. He needs to de-rate the cables as it’s in the insulation but you only have sockets and a single light or two so I wouldn’t be worried. You can get FrameTherm in rolls - i would use that instead as slab is for walls normally.

That’s £7/m for supply and lay additional hardcore which isn’t unreasonable

Quote or Estimate ..?? 250mm up from 150mm isn’t that much - it’s about 7sqm/tonne of MoT1, which at £35 a bag would be that he laid an additional 75 or square metres (inc labour) then it is probably about right otherwise it seems steep.

Welcome - are they virtually flat ..?? You would need a flat roof light such as one of these

Use rockwool - so any of the Earthwool Frametherm products, not the loft products. 2 layers of 100mm and it will be fine. It will also work as sound and thermal insulation.

Ahhhh ..!!! Just put the manifold on the floor with the most loops and then drop the pipes for the hallway straight down. Run it all from one manifold, use an actuator if needed and put a stat downstairs.

SSD is a NAND chip architecture that is designed for fast IO, and will degrade over time. It doesn’t have the durability of mag media and is non-recoverable in the face of a failure. It is used in laptops as it has shock durability and also has the ability to hold an OS image for fast restart. That’s about the only benefit and it is really down to speed and durability of processing which you don’t want or need for long term slow access storage.

SSD isn’t suited to this sort of thing - it’s not designed as such. Laptop HDD will be better at a third of the cost.

what are you storing ..??? As I said above, SSD is really not what you need here, there is no benefit. Cheap laptop hard drive and that’s it really, caddy from Amazon or eBay and you have a HDD that will give you 300Gb for £30

Minimum radius is probably 100mm however if you are having separate floors then separate zones may be preferable with separate manifolds for each floor. You would then use a common circuit to provide heat to both from the heat source and let that be utilised by the separate manifolds.

There isn’t a standard per se, but for most it will be down to the SEng and the manufacturer to advise. SEng will be looking for a minimum hold down strength, and that will be from a set of known values for nailing schedules. Are you looking to try and build / design your own structure ..?

Shipping would negate any savings. Cheaper to go to Seconds & Co

Nope - screw the battens along the rafters making them 125mm deep. Now use offcuts of batten against the tile battens to hold the insulation off the tiles. Make more sense ..?

@AnonymousBosch I really like those and also think @craig has made a really good suggestion ..

Screw 25mm battens to the rafters, then use offcuts to space the insulation off the tiles. Gives you a 25mm air space.

Netgear and Buffalo do OOTB NAS drives. SSD is a really poor choice for NAS, the architecture is wrong for long term storage and you don’t need the speed. Pair of 1Tb drives in full RAID and you have redundancy.

yes - works for pretty much anything.

Mineral wool in the ceiling will deaden some sounds and then the bed/soft furnishings will take more out. Sound tends to travel in straight lines - assuming you’ve got rockwool in the roof too, then basically you’ve got a very small chance of any sound leaking from the building and this is worry about nothing. Worst case you can test it and if it isn’t ideal then add additional mass to the walls of the workshop using more board, or pre-empt it and use soundblock plasterboard and do it once and do it properly.

Make sure it slopes by 3-4 degrees downward and when it is up then get it coated with Rain-X and it will be virtually self cleaning.