PeterW

Yep will PM you some names. What are you being quoted and for what distance ..?

Only place I’ve used external 40mm pipe is where it’s not seen in a very narrow gap behind a house as the final kitchen layout wasn’t known. Simple job to just core drill and connect to the vent stack on the outside.

You need to make sure your RAMs is done for that as I wouldn’t walk anywhere near a pulley with tongs on it - accident waiting to happen ..! Also, most scaffold isn’t built to take a full pallet of bricks - make sure it’s specced with the scaff company and also make sure it has a double width loading bay plus gate if you do it.

All depends on the construction method and the size of the openings. Internal walls or External..?

Harvesting will need to be done using a certified system if you want it considered so it will be north of £2500 - that’s about 8 years of a standard water bill, or 35 years of just toilet flushing ...

Most thermostatic showers need a minimum hot temperature. Combi boilers run at 58-62 to ensure they run in condensing mode for long periods so it’s not unreasonable to set a minimum of 50c as ASHP is really a niche product for DHW. Nope... your payback would be decades and not only that, CoP and defrost are affected by humidity as well as temperature so you would need some very funky algorithms to work out how it would know not to use the immersion and use the ASHP.

yes - some of the new digital showers need a minimum 50c hot supply.

A 300 litre tank will go from 45c to 60c on a 3Kw immersion in about 70 mins. That gives you a lot more useable hot water and if you do that using E7 then it will cost about 20p or thereabouts. With an unvented cylinder there is very little risk of legionnaires so it’s not a variable you probably need to consider. One downside of using a 45c tank temperature is a lot of the newer showers need a minimum 50c for them to operate - worth checking but can be fixed with an immersion boost.

No ... it’s the water in not the water out. Rainwater doesn’t count

Looking at that your architect has drawn those with exterior gully traps so is basically expecting external 40mm pipework which will look pretty crap tbh. I would look to improve those bathroom layouts tbh and use built in where possible.

In addition to what @Stones said - look at buying a very good SDS drill as you will need it..!! Concrete blocks like these will have some interesting grades of aggregate and you may need to get something such as a Bosch GBH SDS or similar as a normal SDS drill will just bounce off. Concrete screws would be useful but I don’t think you will get them to hold properly in this sort of material so you may have to drill and plug every hole for battens.

Forming falls is easier if you do one or two sections at a time and let it go off before you do the infill. You can make simple formers that slope to from the edge of the opening to the edge of the grate, and then fill this with a strong concrete mix. Use the formers to scrape the section to the correct slope. Wait 24 hours for it to go off and strike the formers, mix up another mix and fill the remaining sections. As long as it’s within 5mm the tile adhesive will fill any holes.

Yep - auto vents are your friend here

I’ll come and help you ...

Yes that is standard. It’s about water usage. You can make it up .....

You can use another company that has a utilities licence but most of the cost is the infrastructure charge anyway. Try someone like Crown https://www.crownutilities.co.uk/services/household-services/ What are you being quoted for a connection and for how far ..?

@Jeremy Harris there are a few designs that you could probably “borrow” from them. https://www.houseofcanopies.co.uk/downloads/1560501529CAN.C.2079.755.pdf 10mm glass as standard in these, but 12mm would be ideal at that sort of width. You could use 12mm stainless bars as crosswise supports if needed just to give more rigidity.

Why valves ..??? Filling loop to the UFH manifold, auto air vent on the circuit and the pump and Willis in line. No valves, just the pump and Willis wired in parallel off the same switch. Expansion vessel somewhere in the circuit - not really that important where if there are no valves. Alladin now do auto venting towel rail plugs that may also help you get the air out of the top of the towel rail.

Why ...?? Connect the Willis direct with a 5 litre expansion vessel and be done with it.

I’ve done the opposite and put an extract above the kitchen door to try and also stop smells - this is in addition to the one above the hob

CIL liability would be in your planning permission approval letter. From memory, your council didn’t bring it in until 2017 and it is not retrospective anyway.

Nope, crack on

Welcome. if you’ve got the space to do it, there is a decent offer on loft insulation so a good start would be to top it all up.

Exactly what I have done recently - use a 100w/m2 mat and it will be fine.

Make small disks of timber to fit behind them and level them first. Should be easy with an off cut of cladding and a hole saw.