PeterW

Yep spot on ..!

If he wants just insulation clearance then spot clips will do it easily. Just cut the hole and shove it in - they grip the edge of the boards and the pressure from the insulation holds them down. eBay is one source https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F322439800094

As per @Onoff why do you need hoods ..??

It sticks to everything ... and it sticks to itself even better ..! Cut to length, doesn’t have to be the whole length, peel off the backing at the top and position it then slowly pull the backing off as you stick it down. Pretty easy to realign, and short bits can be easier than long lengths.

you put the cable in the right place, tack it out of the way and make sure there is plenty of slack then measure from the walls and make a map of where they go Then board the ceiling, get it skimmed and then the sparky comes along with a hole saw, marks the centres from the “map” and then you cut the holes. Cable is fished out, lamps wired and then fitted back into the ceiling. Job done.

just before you do... some of the Daikin units need re-powering in a certain order. That may be that it’s outdoor unit first etc Definite case of RTFM.

If it’s not seen you just need a telescopic bottle trap Same in chrome if visible.

Plaster looks as rough as toast. If that’s a “new” opening then I’d wonder if damp has got behind the plaster or if it’s been done with sand and cement. Scrape the top off and see what’s underneath. Could be mould, damp, or just poor preparation but I wouldn’t be doing anything over the top and sealing in crap like that.

Board lifters can be had for less than £90.. https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F372485192444

150mm is the norm but tend to go up to a brick further.

Decent plastering job will make it pretty airtight so don’t panic. I would use a cheap polythene layer for airtightness on the ceiling under the insulation in the workshop, bring it down the walls and tape it. Then board it when you’ve carefully measured and marked where your down lights will go.

If you can temporarily widen the track to 1200mm then you can get a bobcat down there and it would make muck shifting and loading a much quicker and easier job. Out of interest how are you planning on getting the rest of your materials to site..?? I’m assuming there are no big windows etc ..??

I’ve used the Wickes bathroom paints and they are very good. On bare plaster we always use Super Leytex for two coats - doesn’t need watering down and covers very well.

take it your roof isn’t square ..???? you could take out another rafter and then put new double rafters either side (needs it for strength) and then you really should have double trimmers top and bottom. what makes me wonder is how he’s managed to take those out without removing the tiles or the battens ..!! Need to also wrap the membrane into the frame.

really good use of offcuts - pack them in well and then foam them in.

If you want a VCL then a £15 roll of plastic from Screwfix will do fine. If not, the world won’t end. I would just use foil tape over the joists and studs and be done with it - nice job to do, takes a couple of hours but you’ll end up with a nicely sealed up and shiny room ?

Because the floor design will be based on a composite of the joists and the decking, not just the joists. It is the same with any structural design, and both SIP and TF will have similar requirement for a trapezoidal tacking capabilty from the floor and roof structures.

So the SIP company are correct - the floor is integral and they will need their floor panels to provide structural rigidity and also meet their SEng sign off. Using someone else’s panels will not be an option as their calculations will need to be based on agreed products. Ask them for the agreed static and dynamic loads they have used on the first floor construction and then work our what you can add. You may be better using a low profile PIR foam type product as the heat layer then add on the finished floors above. Some will be tile, some board for carpets etc.

He has had this done by an estimating firm - I recognise the format. Divide by two for a sensible quote.

Your issue here becomes the switching at the CU and the removal of redundancy in your heating and sunamps as if one unit fails you’re effectively tripping both of your heat sources. Other option would be a 60A RCD in the CU and then run 16A armoured / XLPE to the room with the sunamps and Willis and have a submain board with 4 MCBs protecting the local installation.

SWMBO... must have cost me thousands .... ?

Did you get that on eBay or online as it’s the American set...

Nope as it is not a service required to complete a building, unless the planning permission required the property to have fibre connectivity.

so they are exempt from Part M If they are above the work surface they can be any height. I would fit them at 1150 which puts them 250-300 above the top of a standard workbench.

It’s all the same. Xtratherm is just round the corner from you