PeterW

That is huge ..!!!! I have a 300 UVC, 80 litre buffer, pair of 30 litre expansion vessels and the valves and pumps, UFH manifold, hot and cold supply manifolds, digital shower, all the controls for UFH and ASHP and the whole lot is in a cupboard that is 1650 x 650mm. All the pipework is in copper too so it wasn’t something that could be easily adjusted. The Telford UVC can be made to fit exactly where you want it. Pipework can be specified to be exactly where you want it, and the plumber can just connect it up. A preplumb cylinder has the connections where they want them and that can be the wrong side of the cylinder.

Definitely need some sort of tie at either ceiling or collar height.

Turn the speed down on the router. And get some proper router cutter cleaner and lubricant. https://www.trenddirectuk.com/trend-sharpening-and-accessories/trend-lubricants-and-cutter-cleaning

This site is really useful as it allows you to see the colours in not just RAL but RGB, Hex and CMYK https://www.visual-graphics.de/en/customer-care/ral-classic-colours/

Is that only temporary ..? Or will the main house run off that sub main board ..??

They would have not paid out, and it would be an expensive mistake to make ! Worst still would have been an accident as that could have involved a 3rd party.

Why does the plumber want pre-plumbed ..?? If space is tight then you want the tank specced properly with all the connections at the front or at least in the middle section, and aligned with where pipework is provisioned where the cylinder will be located. How much space do you have to work with as the 400 litre tank is not actually that tall so you can get stuff such as the expansion tank and mixing valve etc above the tank, and then the 3 diverter valve can be put to one side, and the inputs and overflows / safety valve can be on the other. Telford 400 HP UVC comes with twin immersions as standard, and also comes with a HP coil. None of this is difficult, and if you want custom design then go via Cylinders2Go and speak to Trevor and mention the forum to get a decent price.

That is for unvented cylinders For a vented cylinder it is 65c periodically but ideally you should have some sort of blending with cold prior to stop scalding. I run a vented tank at 53c on gas and occasionally push the immersion to take it to 65c

Yep meant heating water in general - DHW and UFH. Nothing If it’s not connected to the heating system as it’s classed as a domestic appliance. Would be interesting to see how the SAP was done for it as the insulation levels would have to be pretty high.

Hydrostatic pressure would have to be pretty powerful as it would need to break the cement bond. As both @joe90 and @ToughButterCup said - French drain 300mm all round the outside with a perforated pipe in it will keep the water table low.

Are you worried the water will come up through the holes he has dug..?

Watch out with mixing the same RAL colour on different materials as they will all be slightly different. And black can be really bad for not matching.

In your deeds and marked with a T normally.

Never seen a gas Aga with a boiler tbh. They are really inefficient when it comes to heating water. If you have gas, stick a small system boiler in as it will be the most efficient way to heat water.

What type of Aga are you looking at..? There are some really good ones now (not Aga..!!) that use wood pellets and have induction hobs for when you don’t need the ovens running. They are good at kicking out heat and it’s the equivalent of a 3Kw electric heater running permanently in terms of heat. I would still go with UFH as in a concrete slab it is cheap to do when you’re doing the floor and you cannot retrofit it without huge upheaval. A small (5kW) ASHP as source for the UFH is a DIY fit and will ensure you have at least the ability to provide background heating.

BBA Cert isn’t really an issue if the system has an engineer sign it off. Don’t forget that you will need to put chairs under the A142 so 100mm will not be much more than 30mm over the UFH pipes.

There is but it’s not cheap and invasive. I’ve had quotes to have fibre removed and beads installed. They take bricks out on corners and use steel rods and a long vacuum cleaner nozzle to suck the old insulation from the cavity. Then blown beads installed. Got a couple of contacts for it.

Looks like they are to me - what do the plans show ..?? That’s a long way off for an error so looks to be by design ..?

@LSB PM sent

Print it and laminate it

If you are referring to the one to the left then that is a massive structural job that will need party wall approval from the neighbour plus some serious engineering. To create the deck / open balcony you will need to remove the entire roof on the side you want plus support the roof from the other property and complete a retaining structural wall. This also assumes there are no tanks or other items in the attic space, plus requires the removal of the chimney and most of the roof on your proposed property. Given this is a top floor flat and roof, I expect the freeholder and other leaseholders will want assurances that this isn’t going to cause water damage to their properties when the roof is off. You will also need extensive - and expensive - scaffolding due to the height and shape and the works to be done. I would expect given this is London, if you saw change from £3-400k I would be surprised. It’s a major structural job on a partial building, and I can’t see the value in doing it.

Return. Flow meters go on the flow.

They are Polish from memory and come in metric sizes - all non standard to the UK. Check the price includes the frame too as some don’t.

Depends - where in the UK are you and are you in a conservation area ..? That will affect what you can do.

But what about ones that can be released without tools ..??