PeterW

Horses for courses. I find independent more responsive and was also useful as it was single inspection for warranty also. Local BCO is now a shared service with 3 councils and I’ve heard horror stories of missed inspections and failed concrete pours delayed as they haven’t turned up when booked.

You should really pack the sides of the I-Joists with OSB when fitting them into hangers. You could go round after and put wedges behind the joist, or make sure they are tight fitted when they are installed with no slack or slop in the hangers. It is about attention to detail and speed of installation. A normal joinery crew will cut to approx size to allow the joist to slot in easily. You want them tight so it may be a case of cut and trim 2 or 3 times to get that. Also worth using Z clips and noggins even with ledger boards to stop the joists twisting in the hangers.

1. Get some new friends... 2. Leave it if it doesn’t leak... As others have said, leave it unless it leaks..!! Do not lap anything onto the slates, whatever is done must be under them.

Looks steep on parts to me. Cable is £400 inc, board (do you mean a TP&N board..?) £100, additional cable and metal clads £100, 63A switch £40 If you use a metal box you don’t need the containment.

Cylinders2Go for the cylinder - 400 litre Heat Pump cylinder is change of £800. Mention the forum ... ASHP - depends on what you want (Mitsubishi/Panasonic etc) and how much you want to do yourself. Some need the unit to be installed by a registered installer to get the warranty, but a lot are just rebadged Carrier units and basically need one or two NVR switches to control them.

Where in the UK are you..? Start with the local paper and work outward.

Not round here for the same product. It will be bare minimum uValues on glazing

Neither - they are both aimed at the low cost high margin sales market. Get a quote from an independent installer and see the difference.

Worth considering one of the systems like NuLok as doing double layer slating and punching / nailing them to fit will be a challenge if you’ve not done it before ..!

reckon that is a 1 1/2” outlet so he’s into the realm of reducers and trying to get the threads watertight and still get the elbow upward ... straight outlet may be safer..!

Still don’t get why you want to change the boiler outlet ..??? It was done like that for a reason ..! are you even sure that is an outlet ..??

This sort of thing ..?? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/313201718621

If it is a barn then use the Class Q conversion. You won’t be able to change the exterior shape or material, but you can do a lot with it. Planners don’t like Class Q as it’s really difficult to object to if it’s an old and disused building ..!

That’s the puppy. All the way down to 30c and it will be fine.

Last one I fitted we used concrete screws to hold it in place and then drilled 600 centres at 50mm staggered along the centre line starting 150mm from the end, then inserted the Fischer resin capsules and stainless pins. Waited til it went off then nipped them tight. It’s still there and has a lot of weight on it so it must work ..!!

35c max flow and bond the wood to the concrete with something like Sika 5500s, and also for safety get a floor product that has grooves cut in the back to stop any cupping. Will be fine with that lot.

Zone valves aren’t your problem - it’s the mixer valve. As the water warms in the pipes it needs less “hot” water from the ASHP so the blending valve starts to close. Without either a low loss header or a buffer, the blending valve will restrict the flow, potentially causing you flow issues on the ASHP.

And I would leave the boiler alone - a leak on that fitting will be a complete biatch to fix.

Why don’t you drain down and chuck the magnaclean in, leave enough room to put a container under the drain tap. The one you ordered holds 500ml of fluid - you just turn the isolators, open the drain tap and crack the top open. Then close the drain when it’s empty, refil with system cleaner and open the valves and run for 2 mins, then do the same again. That way it is directly through the boiler and also means the magnaclean is collecting the crud the system cleaner is chucking out ...

Question - imperial units, are you not in the UK..? C16 would mean that at 400mm centres you would need a 47x220 for that span, assuming a live load of 1.5kN/m2. That’s only 32 psf, so reducing the spacing to 300mm then you arguably gain a small amount of strength which would allow you to use a 47x195. If it was me - and the timber was easily obtainable - I would sister and bolt every 4th pair of joists to make a 94x195 at 300 centres, that would be a very rigid beam.

Nothing in there that a planning officer will worry about.

Odd as I fit them on the return as the galleries in the boiler are what they are designed to protect.

£70 inc https://www.heatingspares247.com/product/intaklean-2-28mm-central-heating-magnetic-filter-ik2mf28/

Is it a wooden door..? Double or single glazed ..?

Depends on your current ground but 150mm is about right as you need to get to a solid base, lay two layers of MOT1 and compact it well and then your bed of semi dry mix to bed the tiles on.