PeterW

Congratulations ..! Time to crack on then..! Got any photos of the planned build and site ..?

Isn't Isover glass wool and DriTherm rock wool..??

Very few...!! Midsummer Wholesale still do them, they have a few older UniQ 12s too on clearance. https://midsummerwholesale.co.uk/buy/sunamp-heat-batteries/sunamp-uniq-12 Assuming you want to fit this yourself, as the choices now they have done a deal with Fischer seem to be quite limited for supply only.

So this is a transformer connection ..?

Have pinned this as a really useful reference.

Connection cost could be not far off if it is an underground connection to an LV in the verge. @LSB does that also include VAT..?

No has to be MCS but they will add £5k to the install price and in a new decent spec build you will never recover the difference with the RHI payments.

But it won’t work as the energy it produces isn’t enough to melt the ice sufficiently and it won’t “know” when ice as formed as you can’t use temperature as a measure.

there is a cost book on the forum I posted somewhere and I think I have a link to Spons 2017 somewhere ..!

How far is the connection ..?

All depends on your skill set. Do you know how to schedule jobs and what happens in what order on a build ..?? Have you managed anything of this size (cost or time wise) before ..?

Slight correction. The buffer will be connected to the system expansion vessel, the UVC expansion is connected to the mains pressure tank not the coil so are hydraulically separate.

Should have posted the Visio ..! ? Don’t need the expansion over the buffer, just the one on the ASHP Bath has to be fed from a blended supply not the raw UVC feed (BRegs) and tbh I would put the second manifold on a TMV set slightly higher temp than your basins as 60°C water to a kitchen sink will scald. Rest is fine. To answer some of the questions ... - some ASHP do not have internal pumps. And some need helper pumps to get adequate flow so always check - a diverter valve is very different to a 3 way valve. In this instance they are a good fit as it means the ASHP always has an open flow in the event of a valve failure which is a common fault with S-Plan using pairs of zone valves.

I’ve made doors for an under stairs cupboard and they have got two 6mm ply skins over an 18mm chipboard core. It’s much more stable than MDF and nicer to work with. If the 6mm oak is oak though and not laminate then you could do both sides and edge the doors with some strips and trim with a router. Decent glue such as Titebond will stop it all moving if it’s all clamped down or held flat with some blocks.

9kW ASHP and 400 litre UVC with HP coil. 2 power showers will empty a 300 litre in around 14 minutes if it is at 55°C. Bin the idea of the summer house using UFH - you won’t have the PV spare capacity at the right time of year so just fit a 40A supply to it and an inline water heater and an air to air heat pump which will be change of £700

Firstly, being your own project manager can increase the costs if you’re not experienced. As @TonyT said, get it all on paper, work through it again and again, every socket and every switch, the location of taps and doors and then move nothing. It isn’t hard to do, volume housebuilders do it all the time. It just takes the ability to say “No” when your other half wants to change something mid build. And shop around. Buy in the sales, get showroom kitchens, and pick up a bargain or two but make sure it’s all there when you do..! And finally, keep it standard. Your 650mm wide worktops may look nice with that “designer overhang” but was it really worth the £500 extra..?? Do you need shadow gaps, or bespoke architraves ..?? Was that £1000 lighting controller really needed..?? Spend the extra money on the things you touch such as door handles and taps, that is where an extra £20 a door makes a difference.

So... make this a cold roof and feature the joists below the roof ..?? What is the span you need to cover..? Wall plate to wall plate ..?? Build up becomes joist, 12mm OSB 150mm bonded PIR 12mm OSB Rubber membrane geotex geo mesh (30mm) with soil/ vermiculite sedum mat Plasterboard goes on the joists direct, or even recessed slightly to show the joists.

Why would you ..? It will drop over time to equilibrium if you are not careful and don’t provide heat. You’re not going to save much anyway as an external door is more about weather resistance and security than insulation and you can get a decent hardwood door for £150 ex VAT.

@Adsibob These are VIPs - Vacuum Insulated Panels. https://www.kingspan.com/gb/en-gb/products/insulation-boards/insulation-boards/optim-r They are bespoke and made to exact size They cannot be cut, drilled or altered on site They have to be protected from damage by another product (Kooltherm In this case) They are expensive - about 3 times the price of the same uValue per square metre of PIR. They are an insulation of last resort. Why do you need to reduce ceiling height ..? You are gaining possibly 15mm as the overlay panels go below the joists and the Optim-R goes between. If you have 150mm joists, you can fill to 125mm with PIR and then use 30mm of Kooltherm over the top to get the same uValue for about 35-40% of the cost of VIPs.

OK so let’s start from the beginning. How big is the house..? How old / insulated / windows (DG..?) How big is the heat pump..? How big is the hot water tank ..? need to understand all these to start with, and then you can start the sizing conversation. One thing I would say is twin 50mm is very large bore and you may struggle with flow rates with standard pumps - this could cause problems. If the 50mm is already in and buried you may find it being used as a very expensive conduit for a smaller pipe.

Switch stacking is the normal way to do it. Use 16 or 24 port switches and build the stack. You can get fanless PoE switches but limited to about 90w normally. Also check if your end components need PoE or PoE+ which has a higher power requirement.

So how many PoE..??

Do you really need 48 PoE ports ..?? Don’t use them normally unless there are IP phones on every port.

Most house policies have a 30 or 60 day empty / unnocupied clause in them and they start from day 1 so it’s irrelevant as to whether you’ve moved in or not. I’ve moved house (and had to buy insurance) from the date of completion but not moved in for a couple of weeks and that is all standard cover. If this had been a new house you bought from a house builder you could have been in exactly the same position. Have you got any warranty in place as that may also be useful to cover the cost as it is a material defect but may not cover consequential damage.

Those two areas are different shapes ..!! Assuming the other house is in the correct place on the map, you haven’t really got the right layout on either of those systems. GIS maps are notorious for being out of alignment - if you can overlay the existing satellite over the Croft map you may see that the current house to the right is also in the wrong place.