PeterW

Newark are very good but won’t sell direct on UVCs unless you have a G3 ticket

This is a standard term used in calculating flow rates. A SUDs scheme would need attenuation or soakaway tanks - have the sewage company said they will allow a combined outlet to the foul drain or do they have a storm drain ..? You can do this above ground with some very clever water butts

Last couple of photos are as rough as toast. What was it skimmed over ..? Existing plaster and paint ..??

CoP has little to do with working hard, and more to do with temperature differentials which is why they work better at 7/35 than they do at -5/55 and produce much better CoP.

No they won’t course properly as a standard brick is 65mm plus a 10mm bed. 3 courses per block is standard. You’ll end up with 3 courses, so that’s a 25mm or so downward bend on the ties. I would be more concurrent about openings such as windows and doors and getting these spot on - you’ll probably be splitting blocks to get it to course.

I don’t get it ..!! A strap boss is 50mm out of the box, you have to buy a reducer to fit 40mm..!

What’s above and below the Willis and the manifold pump ..?? Volume in that lot is naff all - pointless putting isolators in as you’ve got to drain down anyway and looks the quickest and easiest is the UFH manifold.

So why use that crap 40mm solvent weld where 50mm is already fitted ..?? That first elbow will collect crud as the stopper shouldn’t be fitted horizontal as it creates a lip in the elbow. Also, they should all be swept elbows and not 90 degree elbows. I would have done that with 45 degree bends - smooth and fast into the heat recovery unit. Just looks like they used what was on the van

As the pic @Onoff has posted, lid off and push the reset first and see if it comes back to life.

Eh ..?? 7” thermostats are change of £10. First thing, check it’s not tripped and pins are not misaligned. https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/IHST7.html

It’s inside the head. Left looks to be off anyway ..? Small but on the bottom of the unit, steel lid comes off. The thermostat will be wired into the live and then there will be a wire off it to the element. Unscrew the contacts and it will drop out. Will be a 7” thermostat.

Change the thermostat first. They are prone for issues as they are quite short and it could be a duff one that has tripped out and not reset.

Why do you think a pre plumbed cylinder should only be £1-200 more than a standard ..?? Most are fitted with a pair of branded valves, wiring centre, bypass valve and all done using 22mm copper. That’s around £150 of parts and they are around £300 more if you look around and that’s value for money, assuming everything is in the right place in terms of connections. In terms of purchase, most of us use Cylinders2Go and if you mention the forum, Trevor will sort what you need. The benefit of going with Telford is they will customize all the connections to where you want them - last one I had I needed everything in the 12-2pm and they did it no problem.

At what point does the professional service at £75 exceed the amount you’ve spent on parts trying to fix this by guessing ..? I would get the local guy to look at it.

I take it that is minus the FTC5 which is another £750 or so ..?

https://www.securitysafetyproducts.co.uk/security/protective-covers-cages/clearstop-locking-cover-and-electric-switch-cover-ideal-for-alzheimers-and-dementia-care-applications.php Or wire the switch with some sort of shock mechanism .....

Lockable fan isolator ..? https://www.edwardes.co.uk/products/schneider-gu1013-3-pole-10a-ultimate-fan-isolator-switch-white

pumps use 40-70w so a cheap inverter and a leisure battery with a solar panel will charge it in the summer but may need a boost in the winter if you wanted to stick to AC, but Secoh make a lot of their diaphragm pumps in both 12v and 24v so you can even remove the inverter and just go batteries and charge controllers.

Really low power - think ours has a heater pad and LED lights and is rated at 45w max.

No that’s the Clearfox Nature USP is that it doesn’t have any ongoing costs however ... it’s not got anywhere close to the lifecycle testing of other systems. @nod the company I know who do specification on off grid drainage now spec the Vortex Eco as you can turn up and down the flow rates. Ideal for variable occupancy houses and they have standardized the sizes too.

Mitsubishi are behind a number of the unbranded units as they sell OEM compressors to the likes of IVT (now Bosch) and others. It is the same as Carrier did in the 90’s with AC units. Interfacing into the Mitsubishi is a little easier due to the separate control box but tbh unless you want to run some funky HA system the controls that come with the units are perfectly adequate.

Yes - but you have to install alternate ventilation so either MVHR or Single room units. MVHR every time for me now.

Hitachi RASM4 is 11kW and change of £3k ex vat inc all the bits. Nice units too You may struggle with stock levels between now and June due to the Green Home crap as suppliers are trying to get ASHPs into houses to get the £10k grant for installing a £3k heat pump ...

About 2 1/2 times the price of the equivalent air pumped one. Clearfox Nature Vortex

Zones here https://www.drench.co.uk/blog/how-to-guides/what-are-bathroom-electrical-zones