PeterW

Thing I found most useful doing it was an aerosol can of cheap brake cleaner from Euro Car Parts that cost me about £3. Cleaned all the crud off the fan and made it quieter. Also, I’ve stopped using anything but Paslode gas. Roofers borrowed mine and used some no name gas and I got a lot of misfires, swapped back to Paslode gas and it never misses a beat. @LSB new batteries are cheap on eBay and Amazon too.

How big do you need ..?? 5kW and 7kW ones can be had for £3300 brand new.

Should be all round - every 4 bricks and at least1 per side (even the short sides) unless they have given the tray a proper slope.

Socket must be minimum 3m from a bath or shower to meet regs (not sure if 18th edition changed this) and shaver sockets can be anywhere sensible but are limited on power output so won’t do a hair dryer.

I’d ask them to pull the 40 out then and use 50 - shouldn’t take that long and should be done as requested.

No. Supply the air for the utility through an internal wall (under the kitchen cabinets for example) but without knowing the layout it’s a bit of a challenge

Bath flows don’t need to be quick as they aren’t dealing with constant flow. What diameter is the showersave..?

The Building Regulations aren’t about interpretation and common sense, and sometimes they don’t appear to be logical but they are a legal requirement. By kickboard I mean the plinth under the cabinets. Just put vents in it or leave a 5mm gap all along the top, and core drill the wall behind the units at floor level.

50mm as a high flow shower can gurgle and stall with 40mm waste.

Looks really nice - not cheap but when has anything like that been cheap..??! ? Gets used in a lot of commercial builds for blinds. Search wave blinds or wave curtains

Vaillant split Arotherm from memory

copper as it is a split system not a monoblock so is running refrigerant lines.

Ok so this will depend on your BCO. MVHR has to be installed and commissioned in line with the Domestic Ventilation Compliance Guide and that requires a 10mm gap below all internal doors. Table 7 Item 3.0 refers. You will have to convince the BCO that this installation does not require that gap under the door as this is a non standard install. Your better way may be to provide the input air into the utility through a wall with a vent size of min 7600mm2. You could do this by hiding the vents under the kick boards which will reduce sound transmission to a minimum, and then you can put the door seal that you want in place.

Not sure why you need an expansion as your first post says the heat pump has one internally ..?? You need about 7-10% system capacity as expansion so will depend on UFH loops etc as to whether you need more than the inbuilt one.

Looks like a standard glass fibre lift on dormer. They are barely insulated and I think it’s probably not sealed properly and will be causing some of your issues.

Just install SilentGliss track before you plaster the ceiling - it is fitted flush so you don’t see it. https://www.tracks-direct.com/silent-gliss-6243

By old do you mean an IM350..? If so, there isn’t a lot to them to service. You can do it in about half an hour with a standard set of tools. Genuine kits can be had from eBay. Kelvin do the parts and do the servicing too if you don’t want to do it yourself. https://www.kelvinpowertools.com/paslode-repairs-t-59

Paint it on with a brush then box it in - will look much neater ! You need a minimum thickness with this sort of stuff and brush is by far the easiest way.

@Biglad have you ever driven a 3CX..? They aren’t the panacea to fulfilling every job, and are limited in performance in certain circumstances. For example with the load forks on (assuming you get a 3 in 1 bucket) then your reach off the front is limited to just over a metre so loading out scaffolding needs proper planning. For ditching and trenching you will need 3 buckets minimum - budget £1-2k for a decent set that have teeth, top end of you want quick hitch capable buckets. And if you have driven a mini digger, the first couple of days on a backhoe will infuriate you as the controls are different ..!! Takes a while but swapping between the two can be fun !

No - once you start there is no time limit on planning to completion.

Bin the thin joint if you want fast (as I have said before) Are you sure that is the wall figure or the weighted wall figure when including the windows...??

Please see the link below relating to windows produced by Velux between 1997 - 2003 and relates to spontaneous failure of the glazing units. https://velux-pw.velux.co.uk/?_ga=2.166737595.447046536.1560509373-1221441066.1560350180&_ga=2.166737595.447046536.1560509373-1221441066.1560350180

I’ve seen more failures on copper than Hep2O - fittings are bullet proof and have a rolling / rumble insert that guarantees they are in correctly.

Why..?? Hep20 is quicker and cheaper and needs less joins and is much easier to install. It also has less impact on flow and pressure reduction.

Ply at 18mm can’t be used on spans above 400mm as it isn’t rated for 600mm centres, neither is chipboard. For 600mm centres you would need to go to 22mm (which is hard to find in T&G Ply) so you need to compare like for like.