PeterW

Tend to use compression or push fit elbows on the other end for this very reason..!

PTFE - washer won't work as its not designed for them. A good 10-15 wraps too..!

It’s lubricated by the blood of its victims ...

not sure what is driving some of your decisions but either your designer has shares in a door company, or they like lots of little compartments ..!! Quick comments : - is Bed 3 a guest bed ..? Or is it a permanent room..? You don’t need accessible shower provision if you start by making that one accessible from the outset. - utility through pantry means it is at room temperature or worse, may be heated if you are having uFH. Plant is huge - what do you think you are having in there...? - Study is tiny, nearly looks an afterthought. Draw it out on the floor and then take off 650mm all round for the desk etc and it will feel like a cell. You won’t be able to turn a decent chair round, never mind move it back. Steal 600mm from the dining room and you’ll get much better proportions. - Stove - just inside a door..? And where will the TV go..? Why not make it freestanding on the end of the dining / lounge divider wall. Also loses it out of Bed2 where it looks an afterthought. Bed 4 has no wardrobes and nowhere to put them easily. Steal the ends off the linen and store, use it for built in wardrobes. Main bathroom shower is tiny - layout is odd in there, move the door to the right and put the loo in the alcove and you have loads of room then for a decent shower plus bath. if Bed1 has the view to the east, why is the bed facing the wall ..?? Put a semi height stud 1m from the door and then face the bed to the windows - if you’ve got a view you may as well be able to see it ..!

The original hand held amputation saw ..! Usually shipped with a chain made of toffee wrappers of an indeterminate pitch ... I preferred this one anyway - the “One Hand Saw” that was fitted with .... two handles !! I’ll stick with Husqvarna and Oregon thanks...

But if you used 100/100/100 wall build up with only rock wool in the cavity, and only 80mm of insulation under the floor you met the Regs at the time. And the rating will reflect that. The numbers in the report are far higher than current Part L standards. Did it have a blower test done ..?

Get the view of the surveyor - and ask them tk specifically review those points. Always a slight concern .... do all the changes or structures have building regulations and planning approval ..??

Difficult to tell from the photos, is it just these areas ..? And how is this related to the property overall ...? Are these on the same wall..? Opposite corners ..? Windows look reasonably new, and it wouldn’t surprise me if there were no lintels in the openings so removing the old windows and allowing the UPVC frames to take the load would allow some movement. Is this your house or one you are buying ..?

I don’t think that is subsidence as no evidence of cracking in the brick plinth. More likely lack of expansion joints and the render has cracked and water has got in and you’ve got freeze / thaw cracking.

So this sounds like a fairly large house and the energy calculation for SAP shows pretty poor by modern standard of insulation. Even if you said SAP was correct, and 75kW/m was the heat requirement then if you average this across the heat months I would I expect that 113kW in a day isn’t that unreasonable in really cold weather for a house from 2009 with a floor area of 248sqm. At a CoP of 2 you are using 220kW heat or losing 10kW per hour, and that’s not unreasonable given the construction standard. @A_L any thoughts on this ..?

Not surprising that a lot of this is being offered via China as the term “Copyright” translates to “perfect copy” for most of their manufacturing ... My only questions would be whether it has legitimate kite marks on the toughened glass, and what happens with any damage in transit. I would expect VAT and import duties to add a fair chunk too. Just for comparison, I’ve been having some steel parts laser cut recently and had various prices including using Chinese suppliers. Costs for laser cut 6mm steel plate ranged from £2-7 per item, and the cheapest was 10 minutes away not 6,000 miles away and the quality was perfect. Don’t underestimate the local engineering you may have available, as they may well surprise you.

oh no, we are watching ....

Which one ..?? I’ve heard Mandarin is a delightful language ...

Ahhh ok ..! So it’s about when you use it and for how long.

So does this “Go” period get added in addition to the 4 hours low cost between 00:30 and 04:30..? or is it just option 2 is the 4 hour period and this is an additional hour and you move your power to when you want it..?

Sounds like the system is filled from the header tank which is pretty normal. Quickest way to check is tie up the header valve and then drain off from a low point on the heating system and see what happens to the header. If the header level drops you have your answer.

UVC or Thermal Store will give you mains pressure, or a shower pump if you want to keep the current hot water tank (assuming it’s in decent condition and big enough)

@canalsiderenovation you’ll be surprised at the phantom loads such as Quooker tap, coffee machine, tv/audio standby etc. They add up really quickly even when nothing is “on”.

Could be Ytong Aircrete standards - 3.6N and they are very similar and the same dimensions.

The unitower specs are thin on the ground - I’ve emailed Vaillant as it’s not on the installer portal currently and I’d like to see flow rate and recovery rate etc. The unitower itself is pretty simple. It is a 190 litre UVC, 25 litre expansion tank and what looks like a 18 litre low loss header in a nice box with their standard controller integrated into the front. Pricing has been hard to get but about £5k for the 12kW with Unitower has been where I have seen it - would be interesting to know because on one side you get Vaillant saying “go to our installation partners” and then they appear as a special in Wolseleys..!! OK - found it..! High hot water comfort: aroTHERM plus can provide up to 25% more usable hot water with a 75°C flow temperature, So they are using the higher temperature. At 75°C (assuming no cooling during use ..!) then a 190 litre cylinder will give you 344 litres at 45°C. At 60°C tbat would be 267 litres, 55°C it would be 241 litres so you can see how they are working this out.

OK so that’s improving. Did you finish the insulation in the attic ..?? It takes a while to heat the fabric of a building through so it may be getting better.

Something like this ..? https://www.tuin.co.uk/lianne-modern-log-cabin.html

Try the other pair of pipes. If you have 4, clip them on to both sets, or put two on the boiler and two on a rad.

It is. It’s exactly linear due to the nature of thermodynamics so if you give me the flow temperature either side of the rad I can give you probably 2 decimal places the output.

You’re really not listening or reading what people are saying. How big is the kitchen radiator ..?? Measurements - length x width in mm please. And is it double panel, or does it have double panel with one or two sets of fins / vanes / wiggly metal things in between the panels ..? They have to install a system that is fit for purpose. It is why they get paid to do it, because the should know what they are doing. My (personal / professional / idiot ) view is they are going round installing the easiest for them as they most likely get paid per install, not the number of days. So they maximize profit by paying barely qualified apes to do the install on minimum wage, and this is the result. And you, or Mrs Miggins at No.34, or anyone else gets a piss poor install and this is the result. In the meantime, those who know how it should be done get told there’s nothing wrong with the install .... I daren’t ask if you’ve got the Benchmark book for the cylinder and if it’s been filled in .... ??‍♂️