PeterW

Not exactly ... you need a minimum area which is about the size of a 50p piece per kW.

Welcome .! if the user name indicates your locality then our resident troglodyte @pocster has built an underground lair around that area.

There is some fun and games with some of the dimmer ones - there is a good Facebook support group with the developers on it. The difference is that if you install the Shelly in the ceiling rose or roof space rather than behind the switch you don’t have the hassle of not having a neutral so you don’t need to use the Shelly1L which they have had issues of not working correctly. That way you can just use it’s a switch wire as normal on the SL line.

Doesn’t matter. The only difference is that the device needs to get to a time server at some point to recalibrate the NTS event, and you need it to have internet access if you want it to talk to the cloud and have remote access. @Declan52 the Shelly Temp header is very good with 3 DS18S20 sensors attached as you can let it make decisions on the temperatures.

It’s all on the device. I had one hanging off a 4G hotspot doing outside lights on dusk to dawn and forgot to plug the hotspot in and it kept going.

I would hope not ..! Has it been serviced annually ..? If so, the Megaflo has a 10 year warranty from memory so I would be claiming. Even so, the tank is change of £800 at that size so someone has seen you coming. ASHP tank needs to be min 250 litres and preferably 300 litres, the lower temperature and slower recovery time are a major factor in sizing. I would want a heat pump at probably 12kW based on a 2000 BRegs spec build - wouldn’t be taking a chance on the lower spec.

Cut the floor with a Stihl saw and install a 50mm drain along with 3 No. 32mm ducts all with long bends to use for water and power. The 50mm waste you can core through the floor and connect to the back of the gully below ground using a back entry hopper.

Steel would be recycled - or should be.

It is the latter. The rad is only rated at 12000 BTU at deltaT 50°C, and you have to de-rate them by the factor relating to the flow temperature. So in this instance it is 0.345 from memory, so 12000 BTU becomes 4140BTU which is only just in line with the 4121BTU calculated.

That’s a cherry picker job by the looks of it. Wonder if the locking band hasn’t been done up properly...??

Doesn’t look straight from there so cap could be leaking.

Ok so oily would be the coating off the stainless potentially. What is the cap at the top of the flue ..? Got any photos ..??

This is twin wall isn’t it ..? Is the liquid clear and does it have any smell at all..?? Points to a potential issue where the cap of the flue may not have been installed correctly and the insulation layer is getting wet or has previously got wet and frozen / thawed and this is running down the inside of the insulation jacket. It would be very unlikely that this is flue leakage and more likely outer skin leakage if the liquid is clean looking.

Doesn’t get you round the import issue which kicks in at £135 for personal items imported. Agree - I know someone bringing in a lot of stuff from Germany, and the issue seems to be around the paperwork and what is required rather than the process itself. DHL have got it sorted - I get the waybill and the tax invoices emailed as soon as things are picked up and as long as they are paid before it reaches the UK hub then the process doesn’t slow down. 4PX have built two huge hubs in the UK to manage the China to UK parcels and they are pretty efficient. As entirely expected though, anything arriving via UPS into the UK Royal Mail system is painfully slow ..!!

Depends. What are you trying to achieve ..?? Is it that the cost of heating is excessive ..?? One of the issues here will be the building fabric so without increasing insulation levels or decreasing losses through draughts etc, you sill be chasing ever reducing opportunities. The other issue is if you take the flow temps above 40°C you will hit the CoP and that’s not a new ASHP it’s unlikely to be inverter driven so will use more power. I would put it back into the auto setting it was on previously and monitor for 72 hours - then compare and see if you have used more or less (given the temperatures this week are meant to be pretty static)

Get an SEng to have a look and draw the plans up. It’s not unusual to find that old roof structures are at limits of strength as they have been adjusted over the years and timbers removed or new elements added.

@willbish that’s just a frame with a no name pan - your Villeroy is £220 online and the frame is £160-170 so you get decent porcelain at the same price.

Depends if the EU seller has registered with HMRC as an importer. This is causing a lot of confusion with VAT paperwork. @willbish any reason for choosing the delta as it only has two flush plate options and isn’t widely used in the UK..? I can get the frame and WC with soft-close seat in the UK for £400 inc VAT so you’re saving very little shipping from Europe anyway.

May well be the dormer settling or moving - very wet weather and timber can absorb from the outside and move slightly. They seem small enough to be down plasterboard joins

Still swear by Wickes even though had a can of the Tough and Washable white go “off” when it was left. Coverage is very good too, two coats over Super Leytex on all new plastered walls.

No - just tend to tighten it up to nip the olive then back it off so you can rotate the pipes perfectly level. Then screw the backplate on and tighten up the elbow.

@Adsibob you cut the brick to a point so the cut face buts up to the next brick. Easy done but the downside is there is no overlap between courses and you get a mortar join up the corner that can look untidy. That’s why squints or bonded bricks are best. You’ll only do this once so saving £3-400 on this will be something you’ll look at for a lifetime.

Was done by these guys https://directbrickcutting.co.uk/cutting-services/

Depending on how many you need you can get them cut and glued from any stock brick. Had to do this on non standard bay windows before, search for brick bonding in your area. Think we paid about £2.20 each but supplied the bricks. Be aware to get the proper bond you need two bricks per corner. You can do it yourself but you need a brick table to cut them not a stihl saw, and then bond them with this stuff. https://www.epoxy-info.co.uk/resins_shop.htm#ThixoRapid Cut to the correct angle then let them dry and glue. Leave them for 48 hours if possible to set.

@Omi I think the pantry area is a good idea but would think how you would use it. If you lost the wall on the north side you could have a decent run of cabinets with some real variation and end it with full height fridge and freezer or American FF. Opposite side against the WC wall could have your dishwasher and a small rinse sink - ideal for when you're having a nice meal and don't want all the stuff on display when you've been cooking. If you do put the fridge etc there, put a small under counter one in your island too for the things you need when cooking such as milk, butter, wine, beer, tonic, etc...