PeterW

That is quite spectacular ..!! Going to give you a nose bleed polishing that ...!

Cheaper the better !! Aldi own brand are good !

Decent bead of CT1 all round about 20mm in from the edge and nip the bolts up. Level it across the back then tighten, wipe any excess CT1 off the pan or tiles and the leave for 24 hours. Then go back over with a decent LMN silicone of your choice.

Thats a plastic hidden gutter. I’m talking about one done properly in lead. Then you don’t need the flashing over the top. Like everything, done properly they look fantastic, done wrong they are awful.

Just ensure your extractor has very good filters as you have no way to clean this type of duct. It is also very easy to fill it full of water if you get it wrong.

got a photo of the bottom / back of the pan ..?

These types of hob have recirculating fans not extracts to the outside - and an island wouldn’t allow that without some serious engineering under the floor. If you look at the way this is installed it comes down the back of the cabinet and out of the front of the plinth with a carbon filter to stop any smells. Is this a new build or refurb..?

What frame ..? And did it come with a gasket..? If not, decent bed of CT1 and then use a replaceable silicone all round the rest of the pan when that has gone off. If there is no gap under the pan then use a 2mm packer wrapped in cling film to make a gap at the bottom of the pan /CT1 so any leaks in the future are visible.

Friends have the new ikea version of the above and say it’s brilliant. At £1150 it’s not a bad price either, only minor issue has been that it sometimes doesn’t recognise pans and that was solved with some decent new ones. https://www.ikea.com/gb/en/p/foerdelaktig-induction-hob-integrated-extractor-black-50449403/ One comment that was passed was that it’s an odd feeling standing getting warm air blown over your feet whilst cooking ..! Similar set up to yours and ceiling is around 4.5m and pitched so nothing “standard” would work.

The lead bible is here

It will be slower. If you want quick to watertight then timber frame is your choice. What is the driving the desire to get to a fast watertight shell..? This is pretty much where the cost / time / scope equation comes in - if you want quick and the same scope or quality then it will cost more. In terms of outer leaves, the range is from around 0.4 at the aerated block level to 1.6 for concrete heavy blocks, with bricks sitting somewhere in the middle around 0.8-1. Now consider that your insulation has values of a tenth of that lowest level, and you can see that actually unless you go for a super light - and expensive - block you will be shaving less than tenths off the wall value. What you need to do is increase the ratio of the upper and lower values so increase your insulation layer as a proportion of the wall build up. The average house (140sqm box) has three layers of insulation. A 70sqm floor, a 70sqm attic, and around 150sqm of wall. The insulation cost of the wall insulation at 100mm is around £550, the cost of it at 125mm is £630, at 150mm is £770. So if you factor in a slight increase in cost of lintels and ties, it is probably circa £500 on the cost of the materials. For a building that now has a significantly better uValue for its walls and will more than reach your SAP score. You can’t get the renewables to do the same for less than £2k I expect and you will not recover the additional cost through any sort of FiT or self usage in 5 years.

I disagree if it’s used properly, and not just chucked over the top of the hedge like you see a lot of developers do to the whole hedgerow, and not actually cut in and tied at the bases which is how it should be done. It should be used for a short period only and not the whole of the season which is what you do see a lot of.

March 1st to September 1st Can always net the sections you want to remove now so they can’t be used for nesting but make sure you cut down through the hedge and pull the netting tight.

If you’re using slates why not use a hidden gutter as it reduces the amount of lead by about 30% and also looks nicer as slates will kick with lead soakers under them. Using soakers and steps you’ll need about 5m of 250mm and similar of 200mm. Budget a 6m roll of each.

we are still waiting for the bathroom to be finished that he started on a previous forum ... which wouldn’t be so bad but BuildHub is 5 years old in May this year !!

You will be slower with thin joint and brick. 1. Thin joint uses glue, bricks use mortar. Your brickies will need to alternate between the two, and can’t “use up the last of the mix” on 15 blocks at the end of the day. 2. Wall ties take seconds to place and are cheap. Start using helical ties and you’re needing the tools plus they take time to install. They are about 10 times the price of standard ties too. Most BMs don’t stock thin joint glue so when you run out it’s another delay. 3. Labour doesn’t know what thin joint is in the UK. Expect a lot of waste, broken blocks and excessive use of materials - they are learning on your job and will be slow to start with. Coursing will need to be accurately managed, as will lintel placement. 4. Contractors price what they know. How many bricks and blocks they can lay in a day. They can do those calculations on the back of a Greggs bag ... new stuff they will guesstimate then add 20% for hassle factor. Thin joint isn’t your answer here ..!

short cycling happens when load drops below minimum power and most will modulate down to a fairly low load however if you have underfloor heating a single zone calling for heat then it won’t be able to cope and will short cycle. This is why you must install a buffer and blender with UFH despite what some of the manufacturers will tell you as this allows the ASHP to heat the buffer and that allows a longer heat cycle.

They are expensive to run, and horrendous at anything like a decent flow rate unless you get a 3 phase one. Avoid like the plague

Make the cavity 150mm and use blown beads. 100mm can no longer pass unless you use insulated plasterboard - your architect should know that. Ditch the jumbos with thin joint - they are expensive crap with expensive wall ties and brickies hate them. Go for a standard block and mortar.

Usually yes, but TRV in this case is irrelevant as the rads are undersized, especially in the kitchen and bathroom so they will never hit the temperatures. Reading the comments though it looks like when all the compensation system is taken out, the heat pump can get some temperature up which would point to configuration issues too when installed, or installer error...

so if it wasn’t outsourced, how would you have delivered it ..?? Outsource contracts are only as good as the requirements, and the civil service are notoriously poor at writing deliverable requirements. The concept of an outcomes based contract is alien as despite asking for it, the business rules they provide are so onerous you have no flexibility to deliver.

Looks like the compression ring is missing. Should be a thin plastic ring that sits on top of the rubber seal below the nut to stop the nut tearing the ring. What brand are these ...?

No requirement for fire regulations as the downstairs WC is exempt as it is not a habitable room. I would probably do it as you’ve got it but remember you’ll get a sound path under the plinth so maybe block that.

Bathrooms are not included in this as they are not habitable rooms Check the definitions Habitable room A room used, or intended to be used, for people to live in (including, for the purposes of Approved Document B Volumes 1 and 2, a kitchen, but not a bathroom).

That discharge I would want at least something like a HepVO trap on it - tundish is there so you can see it leaking. That could also pass slowly and you would never see it.