PeterW

I pay between £5-15 a lintel for it to be bedded in when the brickie is on a block rate.

Persimmon by chance ..??

Balancing is wrong ... why has he balanced the mixing valve only, not the full cold ..? That will exacerbate your flow to a kitchen mixer as the cold pressure is higher than the hot. tee should be gone before the control block, and cold feeds should be tee’d in where I put the blue line Also, he’s done a decent job on the relief valves but that open pipe will smell. Should have a HepVO on it or similar.

Yep - just make it big enough for a shower - could even carve off the inside of the “shower room” with a storage cupboard that gets replaced by a shower when signed off. How do you plan to heat this space ..?? Or provide hot water to it ..?

Your engineer doesn’t understand how a passive slab works. He’s using the strips as a bearing for the edge of the slab as though it was a beam.

Yes ... add the toilet / bathroom as that has biggest sign off (soil drainage) and identify as an office/spare room and use proper fire proofing throughout such as fire line boards for ceilings etc. Then when it is all signed off put a kitchenette into the living area but don’t wall it off. Part P sparky could then self cert any sockets etc.

Nibe are expensive for what they are. Look at alternatives.

Sound wil pass through the door more than the wall or baffled vents etc. so I am not sure why you’re focusing on this. Without seeing a proper floor plan it’s difficult to comment as to how to fix this but it sounds like something that should have been considered at design time, especially with an open plan area.

Just watch Howdens for worktop lengths. Less than 3m it’s about £15/m, go over and it jumps to double that for the same stuff.

8 unit rooster deal minus appliances is £425 ex vat. Inc doors etc but not sure worktop but that is only £40 https://www.howdens.com/rooster-deals

Howdens will do you a full 9 unit kitchen for £400 so got to be your cheapest option.

Are you using breather membrane then if so you will need to use a vented ridge which is nigh impossible with lead. Mechanically fixed ridge is the way to go, and forget about it. To do a lead roll properly you will need to know how to lead weld and dress, and also fit stainless holds every 450mm to stop uplift. You also need hardwood rolls and copes, so will be probably in the region of £50-60m for the lead and materials, or 3 -4 times that for standard tile.

They screw to the edge of the board and the ends of the cross beams.

Welcome ... Unless you have shares in an electricity company, forget the ASHP and keep the oil. You would have to put a significant amount of insulation and air tightness products and effort into the building to get anywhere with a heat pump. It just won’t be big enough or be able to cope. Controversially, if you want something RHI related and have the old Victorian chimney then pellet or biomass boiler may be an option.

Ok so I have first hand experience of these. They are unforgiving when it comes to the layout of the beams and you have to get them perfectly level. The roof slope is just that - a slope - and you put the boards 3 sides and either leave the lowest side off or do what I saw done on a demo unit which was to hide a gutter behind the back and run the felt into it as you have plenty of excess on the fascia boards.

is it a Tuin..??? Did you go with felt or rubber roof ..??

This assumes your floor runs to perfect levels with blocks too. Other option is coursing bricks which give you flexibility to change the levels. Have seen them used to lower windows etc so you don’t need to split blocks.

You could move into the caravan while you finish the bathroom... en-suite.... boiler cupboard...... heating .... UFH........ roof...... On the upside it may be warmer than the house ..??

You’ll get less stratification with a longer immersion heater as you won’t be creating a point heat source.

11” immersion ..? Would swap that end one for a 24” assuming nothing in the way..?

Closer to 50mm by the time you’ve got ceiling board on. You can also buy 2440mm or old 8fr boards.

Condensation won’t form but chasing them would be preferable.

I’d have the boost one as the one through the coil then. What length is the immersion ..?

If you have a fire that is affecting the cavity insulation you have much bigger issue than whether it is flammable in any way ... probably wouldn’t be much left of the timber parts of the structure of the building by that point.

Which is the water out..??