PeterW

You have to use the lever Wago's not the push ones. Never had an issue with them coming out.

OK that could be the floor and the sole plate of the wall immediately around the area. Do the walls run perpendicular or parallel to the joists and were they built off the deck or the joists ..??

Get someone to boost the hot water whilst you’ve got a hand on the valve. Soon see if the pipework gets hot without the motor triggering.

So when the hot water comes on, does the 3 way valve spin over to open or does it just heat the water ..?? With a HRC and small cylinder you may want to add a midday time slot to the programme. Would also say that if it can heat a tank in 30 mins then most likely it’s sub 150 litres.

Ok. What programme is the hot water on though ..? And is the 3 port over to water when it’s off ..??

More likely a 130 litre cylinder as the insulation will be 35mm thick or so. Assume this is in the plan to replace ..? Is the heating set to W-Plan as I assume as it’s oil you keep the hot water on constant ..?

Yeh so no point pushing back into it. How big is the tank ..?

Really ..? 300 litre UVC is change of £800. 8kW Heat Pump and all the toys change of £4k, so £5k all in. Full bore 3bar mains pressure and flow over 15l/min New WB Greenstar 8000 40kW has a flow rate of 14l/min is £1580 plus flue etc. So we have a rough factor of 3 difference. Not a minimum of 10... Gas boiler needs annual service, cannot run on anything other than gas (ie you can’t feed it with PV etc) and they are being phased out and gas will only go up in price. Nope that’s you looking in a mirror if you think a combi boiler is the best solution to all problems.

Don’t you use it for a shower..?? Needs to be about 6-8” down the tank ideally.

@Onoff a hot return on a standard cylinder can be a bit of a faff as you need a non return valve and the only place you normally can tee back into is the cold feed unless you put an Essex flange on the tank near the top. Easier than an occupancy switch is a timer that comes on 1min in 60mins from 6am - 11pm as that just circulates enough to allow it not to cool too much between pump cycles. Cheap pump ...? eBay is your friend.

Very.... it looks like threaded pipe unions and you would be undoing it turning it up against the wall. And I’m sorry, if you’re asking this level of question then you’re not qualified to work on gas and should leave it to the professionals. Gas explosions kill.

Looks like a supply line coming through the floor too ..? Shouldn't have concrete round it unless it has denso tape wrapped round it. also the convoluted pipe on the top should have any cement carefully cleaned off as it can corrode them. Can you not move where the fridge is going instead as that sounds easier.

You mean someone to do it with hard wall ..? So a bonding coat then browning / top coat plaster (it’s plaster inside, render outside) which is the traditional way of doing it. A good plasterer should be able to do that no problem, finding a good plasterer though will be your challenge as I’ve seen some jobs that are as rough as toast when it’s not just a board and skim job.

Open the window. Balance a spirit level on the highest part of the open frame and measure the vertical distance from the bottom of the level. That is the measurement.

Ask yourself the question who will maintain this when you can’t ..? A number of members here started down the custom controls track, and some have removed them as the need for such granular control is not necessary. Your issue will be one of stratification in a UVC (or lack of) and where your coils go. Most tank manufacturers will only give you two coils at best that will be enough to get heat in and assuming you use the solar coil, heat out for UFH. A better design would be to mirror in some way what @TerryE has done and use the slab as the “store” for heating and load shift to an overnight tariff. You could if you wanted use a pair of 250 slimline UVCs side by side and use one as DHW but the other as the buffer. Use the UVC coil in the buffer tank as a preheat circuit to your DHW UVC and you’ve pretty much got a standard set up. UFH then would be on the buffer side, and would give you a tank for secondary PV diversion and also you can decide to either use PV, E7 direct, or a small ASHP to heat the tanks. That isn’t actually true ...! Best efficiency is when the RH is at its lowest for the temperature. Again - not sure where you have got this but a 25% antifreeze mix will be virtually identical for heat transfer at the temperatures you’re talking about. Yes it’s better for having limited volume because it’s cheaper but not much else.

You can do it yourself. 4-1 sand cement and mix to a slurry. Cheap sweeping brush and a big plastic box and just dip, sweep, repeat ..!

The opening bit was because I know someone who got caught out ..!! The images are unclear but when you look at the wording it talks about “clear opening” which is what gets missed.

The eaves distance rule was removed a while ago from English and Welsh building regs but I think the Scottish regs retained it. It is now just the vertical height from the floor to the opening - not the cill - internally that is the regulation.

Only Cadent or another utility provider can do it (such as Crown Utilities). A plumber - even GSR - cannot touch the supply side pipework, it’s an offence to interfere with the gas pipework and it is not something they should be anywhere near.

So why build something very unique if you’re not staying in it..? Medium blocks, 150mm cavity, blown beads. Quick, cheap, simple and meets regs with no additional effort.

Depends on the loading. Which way do floor joists run ..? Which wall is holding up the cantilever ..?? What blocks are you using elsewhere ..? Lots of openings at ground level makes me think you’re going to be using a fair amount of steel to hold that up which will cause point loads on the inner skin and you need to work out what the outer skin is doing in relation to that. I would be using heavies on the outer skin as a matter of course as they are cheap and sounds like you’re going to need to do a lot of load calcs anyway.

So that is a flying freehold ..?? Or you own the parking spaces but they have perpetual usage ..?? Or they own the spaces and you’re hoping to build over the top ..?? That alters a lot of things ..!! I would also look to rebuild their access at your cost but I would say that there is definitely some answers needed before you get much further.

What is the ground ..? Sandy..? Clay..?? Is where that red line your land and your fence is just in front of it ..? And how would you get a machine in to dig a trench ..??

It could be condensation from the bottom of the window. Are these aluclad or something else ..? If it’s wind blown rain then the seals aren’t working correctly.

Welcome. On looking at that, your only really viable construction method would be steel portal frame to sort the overhangs and tbh you would need some serious underground engineering to make it work. As @Russell griffiths said - put a column on the outer corner and you will substantially reduce your issues but really need to understand what you mean when you say this : What do you actually mean ..?? The two garages at the back ..?? If so you could build a wall to the right and come up off that but all this assumes you own the land below and it isn’t some sort of flying freehold ..?? Your other consideration is to extend the garages - even bringing them forward half the depth would make your structure substantially easier to construct but one thing you need to bear in mind is for at least 6-8 weeks they won’t have any access while you’re doing groundworks. So check your access criteria carefully - do they need (or even use..?) vehicle access to them ..? Also .. it is a very brutalist design ..! If there are garages, that means houses. What are the rest of the houses like in the area as that has to be a consideration or you will never get planning. To price this you are going to need a decent structural engineer and a quantity surveyor - Jewsons will have no clue ..!