PeterW

Shelly EM will do it. Can get one with a pair of 50A clamps and it will sense the whole house and the ASHP etc https://shellystore.co.uk/product/shelly-em-50a/4

Ply and GRP every day of the week ..! Don’t use rubber, it will leak eventually.

That’s an old clay interceptor trap ..! Haven’t seen one of those in years ..! Real pig to clear and they fail and what happens is they flow over the top of the D entry point and people pull the plugs and they never get re-installed.

Will be the Ecodan FTC unit which should be an FTC6 now as the old FTC5’s are finished now.

Couple of beads of foam and a straight bit of timber to prop it while it goes off would be my weapon of choice. Don’t just prop the plasterboard direct as it will move and it will bend when the foam expands.

Only if it fails or is being replaced in England and Wales - pretty crap but if it keeps “working” then this solution is allowed ..!!

Not unless you’re a VAT registered company.

Ahhh..!!! So that’s different ... to inherited wealth ..??

Damn those civil service pension schemes that reset the balance between lower paid roles than private sector and higher pension returns .. I always thought the sign of hidden wealth was owning a yacht ...

@daiking keep an eye out on eBay for camper van kitchenette units - my mate picked one up for £150 and it has a fridge, 2 burner hob and sink in it and that got installed in his man cave / bar / bbq area with a couple of solar panels on the roof and a 12v lorry battery all through a cheap eBay charge controller. He’s got a USB powered speaker system and LED lights and has no issues with even powering the fridge etc

Yes seen it done, and also had to work on one too..! You’re better off using a wall cupboard and spacing it forward and putting a false back in the cupboard. Quick check and the Wilo pump set and 4 port from Wunda is 505mm so you may gain a few mm by rotating the pump but that probably won’t fit between the internal sides of a 500mm cabinet.

Depends on where the controls for the heat source are located (such as thermostats). But my question is why would you design such a scenario as it is doesn’t have any benefit..?

As above, this is not new work it is repair and maintenance of an existing installation and is not controlled works.

All depends on width and load. What has been specified ..?

EPS70 is under most floors anyway - works fine.

OK so you “should” consider how the header and tank are kept sanitary but that starts with the header cover and keeping that sealed.

So it’s not an unvented cylinder ..?? Not mains pressure ..? Or is the header on the heating side at which point you’re back to a sealed system.

NHBC “standards” are crap, they are bare minimum and pretty much never adhered to. Go look at an NHBC signed off house then make your own mind up. 12mm Polystyrene more than meets the requirement, it is a pliable material which will support the DPM and prevent puncture, it has insulation value and also is quick and easy to lay.

Either or both ...! Just gives a mechanical and quick setting solution if you want to crack on with it. Doesn’t need much.

Architect is from the 1950’s... Use a layer of 12mm EPS, it will crush to the imperfections and then provide additional insulation to the slab (which you will need with UFH) Sand is not required. Neither is a structural slab these days, do it with concrete and bin off the screed. Look at a resin floor - can’t remember who has it here but looks stunning ( @Bitpipe..?) and will allow you the finish you want in about 6mm. Or look at one of the commercial flow coats you can get, all of which will be cheaper than your tiles as I’m pretty sure they will be £100/m or more.

Good squidge of CT1 under and over the joint will be fine - even use a hot glue gun if you have one as that makes a solid mechanical joint too.

Its because the Heat Pump manufacturer doesn’t have control of the final installation, and regulations vary from country to country. In some European countries the water systems are cistern based so a legionella cycle is required as the chance of contamination is higher; look at Italy though and the use of sealed and unvented electric heated tanks is commonplace and yet they have no G3 equivalent for over pressure ..! MIs these days are common across large regions which is what can cause the potential for problems.

No, it’s not...!! There is no legal - in building regulations or water regulations (WRAS) - to provide a legionnaire cycle to a domestic installation. There are no recorded instances of Legionella in a domestic environment - none. It is a closed system with no way for air or bacteria to enter the system.

That isn’t correct. You can’t create energy, and a heat pump works by incremental heat increase to the flow and it is when the output temperature is above 45°C then the units are only able to add 1-2°C to the water circulating. The pump is a constant flow so the heat introduced to the tank - or the J/hr - is not linear as the deltaT reduces at higher temperatures. This is why heat pumps have temperature curves, not linear constants due to thermodynamics.

Why...??