JFDIY

Tell us more, have you done this?

Go with the mfrs recommendations on the vent area needed, that should know best. If there is a condensate drain on the unit then can't see an issue with s fall that goes either away from or to the unit, or a combination, what you don't want is anywhere water can gather, so no U-bend scenarios.

You don't need flow restrictors if you swap to the salus self balancing actuators, that would save changing the manifold and draining it etc. As mentioned above, is the pump running and do the main manifold sections get warm? Also I could be wrong but I've only ever seen the actuators on the return to manifold, yours appear to be on the supply side, is there a chance the higher pressure on the supply side is blowing them closed and closing off the flow to the zones?

Mine comes in as 32mm mdpe, then to a 28mm compression into which goes a 28mm/22mm fitting reducer followed by a short section of copper to a brass stop-tap, then a Tee to take an un-regulated feed to garden tap, where you might want the full mains pressure. The house run is 22mm into a 3bar regulator, similar to @Neil above, then splits for cold and unvented cylinder. I was wary of using plastic stop-tap, which based on @AnonymousBosch's experience seems to have been a wise choice, also insist on an isolation point outside the property for the same reason if you're going to have an unvented cylinder then it will most likely come with a regulator which you put before the cylinder to keep both hot and cold at the same pressure, this is for two reasons, to protect the cylinder from running at too high a pressure but also so if you have mixer taps there isn't a higher pressure at the cold trying to back-feed the cylinder and again over pressurising it. Oh and don't forget the drain cock, which I think I've recently boxed into the wall - doh!

The losses in a 25mm pipe are proportional to the length, so a 32mm pipe will flow more even with a few meters of 25mm at the start. I fitted a 32mm supply for my place (a 40m run if memory serves) the water authority would only use a 25mm tapping off the main and a pre-piped 25mm meter box, it was then stepped up to my side of things and I felt it was all in vain, especially as the fittings within your property become large and bulky with 32mm. That said it only cost about £30 more and I'd probably do the same again.

Foam is Probably not UV stable either. You cut scribe and cut a capping strip to match the windows and hide it.

What make and model of mvhr are you using?

I've always used Sharp sand, then Wacker it smooth. Building sand will just clump up when compacted.

Cut the end off the ash pan then it won't get locked.

Could it have been CCF?

But surely the responsibility lies with them to supply the goods as per the purchase agreement, if give you the money back?

Agreed, you can, but I'd still prefer to use a laser, because I can use it on a frosty day. I can also be set up and running within a couple of minutes and referenced to the site datum, and if I lay the measuring equipment down the water doesn't escape. I'm all for saving money (often more-so than most) but i'd still buy a decent laser and receiver.

He's not accounting for the change in capacity of the tube as he moves around, if he had a mark on the tube and moved the tube up or doen to meet the mark each time then he would achieve level, otherwise he's just getting random levels, might only be a few mm difference though as he's got a large reservoir of fluid on one end which will damp the effects a bit.

I'll really depends on how much work you're going to be doing yourself. I see no limitations to a laser level and I'd say that once you have one you will use it a lot more than you expected If you're going to do the setting out in any way then I'd buy I used proper laser level and receiver, spend £300 on say a Leica Rugby unit and a receiver that reads in mm (such as a rod eye 160) and you can work solo in the bright daylight etc. The lower spec receivers only tell you when on-grade and make the job a bit slower that's all When you're done with it you will get your money back selling it on. Best money I spent, especially when doing brickwork and setting out. I even put my guttering up using it.

Wickes have 18mm ply at £25 per sheet inc. VAT, less 10% trade discount for those with a card. Not sure of the price threshold, but I had 11 sheets and got free delivery as well

Think I would treat the whole house as the airtight envelope, but then make sure you can divide off the garage as a separate cell, have a decent external door from the house into it, then you need not worry about the airtightness of main doors etc. Heating the slab sounds nice, but unless it's a work room a bit pointless, because it will be 4" lower to meet building regs, so if ever concerted would need re-visiting then anyway

The few times I've had to use a plunger, I always push down slowly to evacuate the bellows, then with the tap running to create a good deal against the sink bowl, I pull up with a sharp swift movement. This way you are doing two things, trying to un-consolidate the material from the direction it accumulated and most importantly, pulling all the joints in the system together, rather than forcing them apart. Sometimes the amount or crud that comes out into the bowl is encouraging and can be collected before it goes back into the pipes if you're quick.

@OnoffMine was item number 392519282059 but they've since put postage charge on it. No way is it 520N/M. I did just manage to undo some wheels that are untouched for 5 years on a car that has not been used in the same time, but it sat and bounced for a good time first. @Jeremy HarrisYes it does have 1/4 hex drive in the end, which might be most of what I end up using it for

Mine has just landed, £23.70 or there abouts, I chose based on distance so was UK stock. Will be a few days before I've done any work with it.

I'm not sure on the chemistry required, but couldn't you build an intake plenum area with some large activated carbon filters to scrub out the particulates and most of the smell.

A few bottles usually helps negotiations, also if mention that the facing brickwork will be much better finish than if built inside out it will soon make sense. Offer to take a walk round each day and keep their side tidy, perhaps even have in mind to sheet the scaffold on the side of their house if necessary to prevent dust and mortar getting on their property.

We've a right mix here, the overhead poles have 4 wires (3 phases + neuteal), then at the next pole it goes to a twisted 4-core cable serving the next farm after the 1/3 of a mile of cable was stolen. My 3ph supply comes from the 4 separate conductors as a single concentric cable, so you just can't really tell unless you get a decent hight Res photo or have access to one of the ends. Might be worth following the kind and asking the end users. It only cost me £500 extra for 3ph so I'd always enquire about both costs, I had it for machine tools, but gives more flexibility in the future as mentioned above EV charging and solar generation to name a few.

I'd say pump is fairly likely, you show on the diagrams with red lines that the manifold is getting warm, for any warmth to be there, then there must be some flow of hot water (driven from the pump at boiler). It can only flow if one or more actuators on the manifold is open. The manifold pump, if not rotating, is causing an obstruction and flow through the UTH pipes will be low. Can you feel any warmth on the small pipes that go into or out of the floor, with the zones on and left for half an hour or more? If you can change a light fitting then you can check the pump power supply. Either test with a multi-meter if you have one and are comfortable using it, if not, isolate all power, disconnect the feed cable and wire it to an old light fitting with a low wattage bulb. If you then turn the heating on the bulb will come on when power is sent to the pump. Likewise you could wire the pump just to a 3-pin plug with 3A fuse fitted to check the pump in isolation. If the pump runs then turn the heating on and see if you get heat in the floors.

Just had another look, the pump is just visable and looks like the speed switch is between position 1 and 2, can you feel the pump running, sometimes between speeds turns the pump off. It's not normal to have actuators on the cold side of manifold, normally on the hot side to the rooms. You're also right there is a temp controller strapped to the pipe, has this been turned down. Likewise the blending valve with round blue knob might be turned down too low. Mark the position of where you start from and make some notes each time you change things, it's easy to forget where you started out and what has been tried. My first port of call is to confirm pump is running.

No, but being oak, it will shrink a fair bit and it will most likely break the joints first before anything else. I'm just fussy and would try and do in one piece if poss