Simplysimon

will need to come and see it when you get further on.

yup

i'd be going master on the right, slave on left

agree, though that doesn't mean it's right. putting insulation inside the property has to bring the dew point closer to the inside. i have a feeling there is going to be a large problem in the future with internally insulated properties. this is also assuming the vcl has been done correctly and is stopping moisture entering the kit, want to hazard a guess as to the percentage which have a correct vcl?

ahh. reading too fast ?

can't understand why, it burns really well, about the only thing it's good for. ohh, unless you're cladding the external side of your kit ?

hi @Tennentslager leave all rafters long, string line through when finished and then cut plumb and seat cuts.

get a deeper sink! the other option would be to have a slight fall towards the front of the units to prevent water running backwards.

absolutely, may need to use breakfast bar to get enough width

propassive osb then p/board?

hi @sean1933 thickness was 100mm, price was fromm £56 up to £112 depending upon pad size. what really pi$$ed me off was i do the build over and above what is required for bc and jumped through their hoops and the house next door put the steels straight onto foundations and get away with it. brown envelopes?

i'd love to be able to tell you how mine are, however, someone is storing them ? prior to being delivered due to slow kit erection prior to total covid shutdown. apparently we'll be back up again on the 22nd woo-hoo!

and then preferably with a mid stile rebate otherwise a gap will be visible as will be........

you did turn the bottle on and switch it to the correct bottle? ☺️ just asking?

have you looked https://www.usedkitchenexchange.co.uk/product-category/handleless-kitchens/ here?

welcome to the madhouse, in three years you'll have caught up with @joe90

i take it that as you know it's clay with sand, you know how deep to put the hardcore in to? the pile of recycled material will be fine for bottoming, compacted well with type 1 on top. as @Declan52 says, you can build up in block and fill with concrete, alternatively you can build up in well compacted type 1 and then shutter the slab on top.

he's not too sure on what's required and is covering his ar$e

i would be doing as @Mr Punter suggests, however, i would take the epdm/fibreglass into the house and return up the threshold to the limit of being covered by internal flooring. this would then work as a lead tray in a dormer does. that way there would be no need for external mastic and would allow any water to run away. i would definitely stay away from re-sizing the triangular window, an expense that shou;dn't be required and may not give you much benefit.

is that after you've upgraded the stableblock to blockwork with a cavity and insulation to keeps the horses warm in the winter?

so you want to change the surface of your drive from, say 3x2 slabs to monoblock, who are you going to inform?

timber frame and cavity with cembrit cladding or any other cladding which doesn't need maintenance.

here's my price, doesn't inc road as i was doing that through a contractor

@djcdan i would do as @ProDave said, get the connection to the box and then connect. if you run your pipe sw will need to examine all your pipework prior to their connection being made. ensure you have all the double check valves in place as well.

the benefit as i see it is that it's better racking strength, can't be punctured easily and if neatly cut and fitted should be equal to, or better than, poly. for air tight. what is the u value for your wall? have you looked at buying i beams and stick building? how are you fitting joists, sitting on wall head or hanging? if sitting on wall you can fit poly around the ends and achieve good air tighness as others on here have but propassive right round and hang them is a lot easier.