joe90

Yes @ProDave having tenants is always a worry, we are 130 miles away from ours so not easy to pop up to put things right (but the income is handy). 7 years does not seem very long at all, talk about a throw away society.

Great bit of kit mate, funny how by the end of the build you have all the tools to do more builds but are too knackered ?. I have found that the right tools help the work sooo much. I guess it will come in handy if you have hedges to cut?

Ooo er, got me thinking now, I fancy this one (if I ever get time too use it?) https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-POST-LIFT-CAR-VEHICLE-RAMP-HOIST-4-TON-NEW-999-18-month-warranty/321740808920?epid=1488737875&hash=item4ae93f22d8:g:BKsAAOxyXzxTIZ8x

I used to have a pit at my last house and whilst good for some jobs, not good for everything, wheels, hubs, suspension , stuff not in the centre of the vehicle. Because of my garage being basically built on a bog, I don’t want an indoor pool (like next door) so I fancy a lift. I looked a scissor lifts but think you are restricted in the centre because of the gubbins. Mate of mine built a rocking ramp out of two lengths of Armco, he found the wheels automatically centred in the “trough” (classic narrow wheels anyway). Perhaps it will go on my extensive “to do one day” list ?.

Firewood for life then.?

I used to use “tape self almalgamating” years ago when I worked for BT, we used it to seal cable joints, we had a demo where they wrapped it around a joint, left it four hours then cut it open, the tape had turned into a solid lump of rubber and the layers could not be seen or taken apart. The trick as @JSHarris says is to stretch it to half it’s width when wrapping. I got some recently and used it to wrap the insulation on the flexible hoses going into the ASHP.

Did @Grian not say that the drain (ditch) he dug is flowing and he found a couple of springs? I have heard that Scottish permits are more difficult than down here. If he could discharge to that ditch he could have a pumped outlet to raise the output to that required.

Not sure if it’s applicable to you but I installed a vortex and drained it via a 10m rumble drain (trench dug and filled with 50mm stone with perforated pipe In it from plant) and drained it into a ditch that is dry about 2 months a year. The ditch immediately drained into a roadside drain fir about 30 meters then to a small stream (shows as a feint blue line on OS maps). When I applied for the permit I could not name the watercourse and they deemed it drained to the Tamar (which is miles away!).

In the scheme of things is it worth skimping on a few quid when you could be getting on with it. I bought stuff on EBay I knew I could not claim back but the time saving was worth it, especially the ones that deliver next day.

I must confess I used 30mm twist nails on mine, no one said differently ?(but I did use all holes?), try these https://www.orbitalfasteners.co.uk/en/products/40mmx3-75-gauge-galvanised-square-twist-nail-1-0kg-pack-approx-300-nails-per-pack-?utm_medium=google_shopping&utm_source=google&utm_campaign=google_shopping&gclid=CjwKCAiA0ajgBRA4EiwA9gFOR1oirql552Shmf3eAhfR8mx7hyzJ_V92MwQLPVJjuXB_ekfb4QAv_hoCZQEQAvD_BwE

Is there any chance of a proper longer hose from the machine manufacturer?, I would worry about unseen leaks after it’s all covered up!

I remember the same back in Bristol over 30 years ago on a large housing estate, houses were even demolished and rebuilt (but a lot repointed).

Are Sunamp aware of this forum/thread?

That seems a better layout IMO ( I don’t do tech, I am a pencil and paper man as well). I had to measure out our room plans in our temp house for my wife to see the space, I am lucky that I can 3D visualise from a set of plans but not SWMBO. I like the idea of exiting via the dressing room so if one of you rises early you won’t disturb the other. ( I am the other in our house ?).

I think that refers to timber joists, not engineered joists, timber twists etc but engineered timber is much more accurate so no bows should be found.

Forgot to say when I used to use a hacksaw you would have to clean the swarf with a Stanley knife.

I used to use a hacksaw but use these now, https://www.screwfix.com/p/rothenberger-rocut-38-0-38mm-manual-plastic-pipe-shears/48561 read the reviews they are good .

Yes, that’s my vote. ? Another top tip, I like using a brick hammer (https://www.screwfix.com/p/magnusson-brick-hammer-20oz/5895v) , the head is square not round and it’s easier IMO to hit the nail using the corner of the square head, just thought I would put it out there.

Perhaps people could PM @scottishjohn.

Cool, just the skirting next ?

Just read this on another forum from a professional. Screws are made of a harder metal which is more brittle and thus has a much lower resistance to shear loads compared to the more ductile nails. Screws are not to be used for applications which have shear loads, unless the screw itself is rated for that application. This is particularly important for DIYers - there have been cases of injuries where people have built decks themselves and used screws for the joist hangers, only to have the whole thing fail under load with people on the deck. The manufacturer of the joist hangers usually specify the approved type of fasteners, but sometimes they have special screws rated for this application. Using regular wood screws (even though the shanks may appear thick) is a very very bad idea. If you don't believe me, fasten two pieces of wood with screws and another two pieces with nails. Whack them with a hammer perpendicular to the fasteners and see how long the screws survive. They usually break quite easily whereas the nails will bend at worst.Screws are fine for non-structural applications (e.g. the blocking in stud walls or holding the top and bottom plates in place for compression loads) but professional framing contractors only use nails for two main reasons: (1) Nails are always approved for this application and (2) nails can be installed much much faster than screws. No professional would use a hammer - they all use pneumatic nail guns. I cringed watching some episodes of Grand Designs where the contractors were using handsaws and hammers for framing! notice “manufacturer sometimes have approved screws”, I have searched for “approved screws for joist hangers” and come up with zilch! @recoveringacademic can you not position the hanger and joist with a couple of screws and get an apprentice to whack all the nails in for you.

For the price of your build the nails cost nothing!!!, https://www.screwfix.com/p/easyfix-square-twist-nails-sheradised-3-75-x-30mm-1kg-pack/12788?_requestid=146176. I always nail every hole (but I am OCD according to some!), top tip, hold the nail with a pair of long nose pliers for the first hit, saves you hitting your fingers (ask me how I know?).

I just put a bit of sheep fencing a meter away from the trees, didn’t need signing off, no visit done, no probs. It will teach them to respond to your original request in a timely fashion. (Does not help you tho).

Really glad you have a solution that keeps the BCO (and yourself) happy. I didn’t realise the wall plate was not the same depth as the joists! I would always make the wall plate the depth of the joists, it gives you something to fix plasterboard edges too. Personally I like to wrap the top ends of the hangers over the top of the wall plate but I have been called “anal” by some!

I agree, if you have planning permission then you can go ahead, you cannot have a tree in the middle of a drive (unless you want a roundabout ?)