joe90

Thanks guys @PeterStarck and @Ed Davies.

I thought I would suffer from condensation with my container but have had none in the last two years, I did make sure nothing was stacked against the sides in case.

Yet to enter the loft and find the “gadget” for monitoring and read the spec on fans (I have my chores to do first ?).

Well we survived the night!, the upstairs temp has risen by about 2’ which makes about 18 upstairs which is acceptable (to me). I have had a thought about balancing and (correct me if I am wrong) the air into and out of the building is controlled by the speed of the two fans, the balancing is making sure all rooms accept and remove similar amounts? I have read on this forum that people have set their MVHR to shift less air than the regs would stipulate. I must admit I was expecting to feel “groggy” this morning due to lack of fresh air (like we used to in our last house that had no trickle vents) but we did not!!! I must get on with balancing the system and controlling the amount of air shifted. On a different but similar vein, if the restrictors are closed a bit to restrict air will this put strain on the fans?, would it not be better to turn down the fans (if possible). Answers on a post card to..........

I am impressed with the colour match, so much for me saying otherwise, well done ?

@Ed Davies thanks mate, didn’t realise an imbalance would cause such an effect, yes there is a “gadget” next to the MVHR with a screen and some data. I have turned the MVHR off and will give it 24hrs to see if temps stabilise. If I don’t report back we have secumbed! note, another great example of the world of information this forum gets from such knowledgable members. Thanks.

I have a container on site for storage and it’s great and secure. I think @ProDave is right about a caravan, if it’s not got a bathroom or kitchen (I.e. not fir living in as a separate accommodation) you don’t need planning permission (it has wheels) but the council will probably tell you it does (argue with them).

Ed, he did, completely forgot about it. It’s a shame he’s not here to answer, perhaps I will email him and see if he can give us sine answers (I have no idea what your maths are above?)

I don’t have that problem, I can only plant bog plants or they drown ?

Ah, @AliG not thought of that, go to the top of the class.

I must admit I don’t like the house or bedroom too warm, the downstairs here is a constant 20’ to 21’ but does not feel overly warm, in our last house (very poorly insulated but gas central heating) if the stat was set to 21’ it “felt” warm!!!

I have heard that some BCO,s will accept rising hinges as door closers in relation to loft conversion regs.

Thanks guys, In fairness I have not balanced the MVHR yet so don’t know what airflow I have, I did however restrict the air into the bedrooms a little as they were the shortest runs.

Thanks @ProDave, yes fresh air at 16’ is better than trickle vents or open windows at 6’ ?. I did wonder if the summer bypass was stuck on, but no. My fall back for cold weather was always small electric plug In Radiators, an hour @ 500w would make a big difference. I had thought of an in-line electric heater within the manifold but no sense in heating all rooms when only one bedroom is occupied at a lower temp.

As some will know we have only recently finished (well nearly) our build and moved in, heating been working for a couple of months and gradually getting it trimmed. I have been a little dissapointed that with UFH downstairs only and electric towel rads and electric UFH in our en suite the upstairs room temp is a little low. Downstairs stays between 20’ and 22 but upstairs is between 16 and 18. I have just measured the air temp coming out of one of the bedroom terminals and it’s 16’. I would have thought that with 20’ downstairs I would be getting warmer air delivered upstairs. It is currently 6.6’ outside so is the temp uplift from the lossnay MVHR about right?

I like the look of wet cellulose, sprayed onto the walls a bit like sprayed foam, then scraped flat and plasterboarded afterwards. What machines do they need?

Didn’t have any in mine (4 mtr span). But supported plasterboard edges on all joins and edges with 4x2.

One of the reasons may be the lack of rentable machines to blow it in unlike the USA, for us DIY merchants!

Can you not use the nut to push the olive off?, put an adjustable wrench behind it and tap it off with a hammer!

Wrong side of the insulation as @JSHarris says, why have two loops when one will do both even from the same source if you use an ASHP.

@Nick1c you need to read @JSHarris blog about getting his ASHP to cool his slab, it’s what I will do IF we suffer from over heating.

I had this decision to make but after seeing pictures (on here?) of oak doors with painted skirting/architrave found it looked good. I like your cill idea, I would have biscuit joined the facing piece myself but think pine won’t look good unless you have pine elsewhere. Personally you can never stain pine to look like oak (but I am OCD according to er indoors). You would IMO be better off having lengths of pine machined by a local firm then trim to length and stick them on. I am making oak calls fir my oak sunspace and using 18mm oak faced ply and biscuit joining a bull nose to the front.

I built to “passive hous” principles but not interested in certificates. Mine is brick and block, traditional cottage, and I had a main contractor (who was brilliant). I am a retired “builder but did mainly kitchens , bathrooms and loft conversions. I was very hands on with my build and did all the carpentry, plumbing, tiling etc but not electrics as it needed signing off but I laboured fir the spark to save money. Having been on this forum has been a gold mine of information . I was lucky with my contractor, (some here were not) a local chap with a very good track record. Our build is all my own design and there is very little that I would change if I did it again. I think the main difference between “other” built houses and self build on here is the attention to detail which makes all the difference. Airtightness is a major thing with passive hous and very worthwhile getting right as it can be near impossible to correct it afterwards.

@Big Neil I think your right, we used rockwall and it’s nothing like fibreglass insulation.

Thats bollocks (sorry) , they say it’s not good enough but can’t tell you what’s wrong, typical council if you ask me. I think the only thing you can do is what was originally agreed, timber edging, stone off roof protection area, concrete cleaned up. Although this is OTT it is what was accepted originally, send them a copy of the original Email, tell them you are continuing with work on-site now that the condition has been met. (What part of Bristol are you building in, I am originally from Bristol and had to put up with Bristol planners ?)