joe90

I did that in a previous house and it worked well, in our new build i put the washing machine in the plant cupboard in the cloakroom which has enough room for a pulley maid drying thingy (the room has MVHR extract) and room to use an ironing board.

I planted a laurel in my last garden and it grew like mad, here we are on clay with little top soil so I have to be careful. The poplars have grown about 15ft from 2ft slips in about 12months so they like the conditions, just not evergreen. The only real neighbour we have is at the bottom of our garden and they appear to be nocturnal (they leave lights on all night?)

That’s the same as I bought and I paid £850 delivered two years ago.

Yup, we’re just inland from Widemouth Bay, Atlantic South West winds hammer us at times (but great ).

Yup, it’s http://completejoineryanddesign.co.uk/ can’t remember price as it was part of a whole bigger job, ring Matt or Simon and say John Hodges recommended them. Where are you in Cornwall?.

I fancied bamboo but found it very expensive, I did plant poplars but am dissapointed with them being deciduous, I don’t want Leylandii so going to plant laurel which is the fastest non Leylandii .

As I said they were made locally, I can find the brand of running gear if you want?

I think you will find the joists are 100mm short, that’s 50mm per end!.

@pudding first thing I noticed was the weight was taken on the bottom runner, when I had my bifolds made by the local door and window company they told me they stopped using bottom rollers because they tended to get clogged with dirt, dust etc. They now use top hung rollers (German design) for a few years and never had a problem, I have to say I am way Impressed with the way mine operate. They also have compression seals all round and fully adjustable.

But that had not been sanctioned by either the joist company or the BCO for signoff, personally I would rather extend the joists in an engineered fashion. oops, cross posted with @recoveringacademic (Great minds think alike ?). Frankly it is critical, there is nothing worse than a bouncing of flexing floor that can’t be put right after the build is finished.

Yes I would also block the top, but then again my wife says I am OCD .

I like the above, less hassle than a steel plate and less to see after it’s done ?.

@recoveringacademic Actually I think the above is better than my solution and easy to do.

I used these http://www.glulamte.co.uk/ when I lived in Bristol, they were very helpful. I must admit I only like working to full plans so I know before I start exactly what is required, but that’s just me.

I am surprised this was not specified in your plans for building control, also surprised your gluelam supplier didn’t machine them and supply plates and bolts, mine did . sorry cross posted with above!

On our planning application we didn’t mention the ASHP but the plans showed one. It was also mentioned somewhere that the DNO required you to inform them if you were having one but this goes back to the old non inverter models that had a large start up current, modern ones don’t (we did not mention ours to the DNO).

As everything is in compression I am not sure it would add anything, plus, the manufacturer stipulated screws and the BCO would want that followed.

I would make up the “T” piece using two blocks A and B as per below, glue all in place with d4 expanding glue, I would countersink the screws in a little that gives you some timber to plane off in case it’s too tight in the hangers. Also drill pilot holes in A and B so you don’t split them. Make sure the blocks are the same width of the joists. Using two blocks saves you having to cut a “T” section if you don’t have woodworking machines. Shame I am not closer, I would help you out with this, it’s right up my street this woodworking malarky.

In my experience BCO,s cover their backs with documents given by suppliers, they don’t usually disagree with them. I would just present the BCO with what you have been supplied with by the manufacturer and get him to agree that you can do this (I would be extremely surprised if he disagreed). Then I will do you a diagram (if you want) of what I would do that would satisfy the manufacturer and your BCO. and is easy to do.

I think you will find that some joists only have one end vertical piece and others have two. I still think it depends on what the BCO will accept. Like others I don’t like the 3” block idea and prefer my “T” piece idea, again it’s down to what the BCO will accept. On reflection rather than try to make lots of “T” pieces, (which I could do with my woodworking machines but more difficult without) I think two pieces glued together might be simpler. If @recoveringacademic wants me to I will draw a diagram of what I propose and he could send it to Nicola, if they accept it (in writing) that will keep building control happy.

Oh yes, read the many threads of people (like myself) who have UFH in a solid slab that acts as a storage heater in that it holds heat well and temps don’t tend to fluctuate (and they don’t bounce!). Also there are many here that have modern MVHR units that work well, it as you say when commissioned properly (note to self, MVHR balancing on my to do list). My build is recently finished so I am still “tweaking” components to give the best performance but others here have been there, done that and are benefitting greatly.

@recoveringacademic no, but she’s welcome ?. Glad this issue is being resolved, did you see my PM.

As an aside I wish I had studied stuctural engineering, I am pretty good at knowing what will work but don’t know the maths behind it. Perhaps night school?

That’s nearly what I suggested.

@Nickfromwales not sure I agree with you (but I am not an S.E.) if the joists are a tight fit there can be no rotational force as it would compress the top cord of the joist.!