Russell griffiths

20mm holes no probs. But 110mm and 100mm for mvhr are a bit trickier if you have 5-6 pipes together.

I think you need to re think your joist choices, definitely 100% not solid timber, and probably not i joist either. Probably better with a metal web joist, it will make your life so much easier when you come to running services. I stick built my last place 320m ground floor. Lots of timber in that. You also need to look look at your design at sole plate level, you need to mitigate cold junction at the floor. Also so look at adding a service batten on the inside to space the plasterboard away.

Yogurt. Who you trying to kid tubby.

First thing to do is stop and re look at your figures. 100mm with ufh is a bit inadequate really. Look at adjusting your levels so you can get more in. Scrap the sand blinding layer and replace with 50mm of eps, it will deform and form a nice surface for you dpm. Regarding the pir, bring it home and stick two scaffolding boards on it with a couple of concrete blocks on top, in a week it will be flat again.

If you are thinking of doing that much work yourself, then I Would look at icf. structure and insulation in one.

What you need to remember is that this compound is not water, it will not run off of high spots like water. so you need to identify high spots and mark them up with a big circle around them, they apply compound to the lowest spot first. if for arguments sake you pour on a high spot you will raise the high spot, maybe only by 2mm but it will rise, so you add 2mm to the high spot and then need to add more to a low spot to compensate. so start in low spots and build up to just having the minimum over the high. as long as your compound doesn’t have a minimum thickness.

He’s talking rubbish available in 2.4m and 3m.

I’ve used square edge and glue in my plant room, as I wanted a fully decorated surface before installing plumbing stuff, IMHO the finish is not good enough for a visible house wall without using their fine surface treatment. What are you going to do with fixing holes.

44kg per sheet. I’ve been fitting them on my own all week. I’m sure you’d builder will manage.

this is how we did ours.

I don’t think you have a choice. for building regs you need to specify how you will extract damp smelly air and replace with fresh air. so what do you think you will do. Build a good quality house and then have trickle vents to let cold air in. then heat the inside of the house and blow it all outside when you turn an extractor on. if your building to a good standard I don’t really know of another solution except MVHR.

I would add that design is the bigger factor to cost rather than size. I think if I had changed my design, different roof, less weird angles, different materials. I think I could build my place for £100,000 less than it’s going to cost. Square box, red tiled roof, plastic facia and gutters. Probably why the developers stick to a certain design.

I would talk to your bc, I spoke to mine about it and he just said as long as it looks right he won’t be measuring them.

In that location I would look at a splash back designed for kitchens one piece, or in your case 3 pieces, no grout to get dirty. And you can probably fit it yourself with a tube of pu adhesive and a tube of silicon.

All depends on what you mean by flat, they are reasonably square and true, but after you stack them 10 high and fill with concrete the surface has many lumpy bumpy sticky out bits, definitely not flat enough to screw boards to.

You cannot just screw to the woodcrete blocks, not unless you want a wall that is about as flat as the moon, will either need battens or dot n dab.

The easiest thing to do is forget metro tiles, they look naff unless very well planned out. Always look silly in a corner, again down to planning. Choose a better tile and your options will increase tenfold.

I used knauf omni fit 100mm x 2 layers easier to handle and cut at 100mm. Are you happy with 50mm pir, I used 75mm and I’m still not happy. Taped all sheets together and glued them all while fitting for vapour control.

Your insulation value should be geared around the insulation, not the plasterboard, get the insulation levels right and it hardly matters what board you use.

You need to pay more attention to the junction areas, the area at the bottom of the new walls to the old, builder will lift his plasterboard 20mm above the floor upstairs leaving a big gap with no dot n dab, this space heading downstairs to whatever plaster finish you have down there. This is your week area, concentrate on these and the mass areas will be ok.

Sorry got bored after the first paragraph, as said above break the question down into sections. The structure, then layout. Kitchen choice is up to you, if you ask ten people you will get multiple answers, we all like different things. We can only advise on good practice, not if blue is a nicer colour than green.

Water is cheap to buy. , harvesting tank, digging, plumber are expensive. It just doesn’t add up.

Sort of like your first thoughts. But I would get two battens and screw them together to make a corner piece, then offer this up into the corner and screw through on an angle.

They are a bit big, but once in that’s it, with steel you need to fix floor joists into the way of the steel, that’s a pain. Or pad the steel out with timber then fit hangers, with the glue lam you cut out a few steps.

Why are you thinking of ASHP if there’s gas in the street then just use that with a modern boiler. That house will be as leaky as hell when it comes to airtightness, just improve the insulation levels, better windows, properly fitted. £140,000 will just about get what you want.