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centralLondonJOHN

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  1. So I have now moved onto our own cc and a photo shows what I am up against. Not enough yellow stocks from the 1820's. But I can get over that with reds and render. I'm cleaning the bricks in two parts they are so friable and breaking into two. CP1 clear as made some hidden repairs. Initial cleaning, then lime bedding the bricks and then a final cleaning in the summer. Final joint work soon. No new painting!, I am asking for advice as to where to place the first horizontal DPC band. Would it be between the 1st course and the pre-stressed lintel, or underneath the lintel where I will be putting the 2 vertical DPC bands for the timber frame and door. The detailing is tight. Behind the frame former the ghosted arch of the vault can be seen in the Left Hand corner. This shows that little or no continuity of the DPC further back to the 2nd course of brickwork. Thanks in anticipation, John
  2. Ok, one down ... I am very keen to understand the render?, is it two coat/ one coat, gunned on render. Some guidance here would be very useful.
  3. My immediate neighbour has had their coal cellar (those were the days) ‘tanked’. This all done many years ago, the co. now not trading. So I would like the terms by which this can be described; is it tanking w/ a water barrier , rendering with an admixture, gunerable cement that I can see that it is brushed with a coir brush but has no membrane since it is a little bit spoilt with water ingress. So, all my searches have come to nil. Other than Newton CDM which I have used more than 20 years ago. The work, 20 odd bricks to be added to the reveals, a thin 40mm concrete load bearing lintel, say 1000mm x 150mm x 40mm. The waterproofer, render and an oak frame door set or better. Where can I order such a lintel? Thank you in advance, John
  4. https://enphase.com/homeowners OFF grid and off limits to the those of you capturing the solar rays. Potential for no battery use! In essence, it can operate as part of a grid-integrated system or part of a microgrid. John
  5. Marvin Thanks for the advice, indeed the house is on the slope of a hill with a narrow pavement, and the two piece will have to negotiate up a short up-flight of stairs, then inside the house - and then a descent down a flight to the lower ground floor - thru a very narrow doorway - and then onto the ceramic tiled floor. Bloody tricky! The screw fix link helps a lot. A great help to picture it all the way thru. John
  6. I'm considering purchasing this weighty beast of a cast iron rad. https://www.traderadiators.com/churchill-7-column-cast-iron-radiator-350mm-x-1402mm-22-sections I have seen the youtube video from the sam e co. My purchase is currently around 1402mm and it will be delivered on two pallets. (I'm looking for something close to 9000 btus at Delta 50*C). So it would require a 'Joining Tool for Cast Iron Radiator' outright cost of a £60.00 from the same co. Two things, with a total weight of 158Kg - in the gym I can barely lift a 1/3rd of that I'm 62kg, so I'll need to find a chunky guy to help - does anyone have any experience with this beast? As regards the joining tool, what 'business end' does it have (it looks just like a thick spade end on the vids) and can it be improvised, considering the torque of 200 newtons probably not. From a buyers perspective I have no knowledge about these radiators, am I missing some other issue? I can plumb it in, thats not a problem that I for see. On an US youtube site they showed a strainer to drain out the crud, I expect this to be very useful. Any thoughts. Thanks for your help! John
  7. Dave what did you have in mind, I have received both 5 page DCN and a 7 page DPN. The certificate its self is one page with little info. John
  8. This house was bought by me nearly 40 Years ago now, eventually I took half of the basement and create a studio flat the other half was our kitchen/ diner. The house electrics however were originally from memory in the studio area. So at some time a CU was put in for the house one floor up/ on the ground flr. Some 20 yrs. ago I created the studio and then had to put in a separate CU. I now need to amalgamate the wiring etc to a new metal CU in place of the 2 old CU's. I hope that is clear now, the history is more or less correct. Yes the costs are high because the wiring for the studio is reached from a set of stairs from the outside pavement, so the electrician has to go out side to the door of the studio flat to undertake his EICR work. But it is also possible that I will have broken thru' the plasterboard wall and made the studio flat 'one' with the house. So all in all it will be much simpler to make good the wiring that is hidden in this wall and all the rest of it. Then the basement will under go a floor rebuild with UFH. A good point to comeback with the a new quote if it gets that far and the eventual certificate. John
  9. This is a image of the two CU's that are required to be amalgamated. Just inside the main door to the house. I also think my argument with the company is that the list should be categorised into C1 and C2 blocks of work. This exercise has at least given me the chance to think things thru' overnight. Many thanks. John
  10. The first thing to say it is our home and we have no intention of selling. Dave these are normal London rates now and have been for some time. It's my opinion that they are charging some 3x / 4x the hourly rate and that is shocking. Is it possible to 'see' only the C1 issues for me that is only needed by the certificate and possibly flag for categories C2 etc. ie chunk it into staged blocks of work. I need a little more 'teeth' to get my confidence up to negotiate this estimate down. Many thanks for your help so far guys. John
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