Russell griffiths

I used a Graf tank, very robust tank, made in Germany. Mine is 1.1 below ground level, 1.5 will be a hell of a hole and you might require a pumped outlet to come up to your drainage field. Just check your terminology. You need a treatment plant, not a septic tank.

Regarding your comment about needing a concrete pump, there has been talk on here where people thought you could pour the concrete with a couple of people with buckets. so it pays to check, there are a few loonies about. the pic is how I did mine, I know another lad who did the same, a lot of work but you end up with the ends of the beams locked into the walls.

Ok so block n beam. make sure you over spec it. Use larger than specified beams, and double them up more often than is specified to reduce the bounce. like everything they design to the bare minimum. regarding your concrete delivery. should you go and pay your neighbours and get a signed contract. if after you first pour they tell you to sod off, what then. it’s a big gamble on someone’s good will.

I would want 100mm concrete minimum.

Why thermally efficient, it’s not there for that. it’s an external weather barrier.

I did use beam n block with my Nudura and think I have a mega set up, I might not recommend doing it the way I did as it was very labour intensive.

So how are you poring your Nudura walls, you will need room for a very large pump and a concrete truck. I don’t like the floor as there is a definite vibration to it if you drop something heavy. this could be Doo to the screed on top of insulation. but I wish I had of gone solid floor.

Personally I would. buy a staple gun and 2-3 thousand staples. rip out the egg box and throw it in a skip, staple the first 3-4 rows, rip out next lot of egg crates and repeat. do it right now before it turns into a drama with 20 tonnes of screed sitting there.

Try to get your block n beam removed and do a slab. it’s one of the parts of my build I hate.

Should they not be toughened and laminated, just like a balcony, or balustrade. if you fall against a full height window that is just toughened as it shatters you fall out side. unless it has a rail at mid point. sounds b&&&ocks but I could see the reasons behind it.

So your going to fill the grating up with rice and peas. Nope, get a gulley fitted on the corner connecting into the foul drain.

That lead is very poor, looks like he formed it on the roof instead of pre forming on a bench and passing up and finishing on the roof. I would certainly want a bit more effort put into that.

What boiler ban ?? you might not be able to install a new one, but there not coming around and going to be pulling gas boilers out. Totally impossible.

Sorry but you have picked the wrong type of house, you would need to update that by such a huge amount it would cost far more than it’s worth. You can update it and add good amounts of insulation, but to get it to a point of low energy bills, you will need to rip the lot back to bare plaster, all floors up, windows out and resize the openings to take insulation on the reveals. It can be done, but you need to ask yourself is it worth it, chucking £100 grand plus at something. You could do it up and make some cash and move on to the next project, with the aim to build a real good one one day.

My neighbour has just had this on his new build, I feel like the pauper next door.

Modern gutters require so little fall it’s not worth worrying about. Mine is perfectly flat.

Forget ufh. Rewire is £4-5 grand windows £12-15 floor insulation and a bit of woodwork will be £2-4 grand. So you have spent 20 in the blink of an eye. Don’t try and reinvent the wheel, those houses come up good with a nice rear extension, open plan kitchen. You will spend 100 grand in a heart beat. Just do good solid work not fancy screed on joists, that will suck you gas meter round like a Catherine wheel.

I’ve got the electric plane on many a upvc frame, makes lovely sawdust.

If it’s a planning thing then you can build a false one on the roof, for the look, just don’t continue it down through the house, a lot of chimney stacks are now fibreglass replicas that just sit there doing nothing.

Graff.

Nope just one pour.

I thought this was the best way to spread the load of additional soil.

I backfilled with gravel as per manufactures details, I looked at it for a week then took 300mm out and capped it off with 150mm of concrete, mine will never be driven over, but I liked the security the concrete provided.

I like to get a pipe outside as soon as possible, but a run under a slab is very common, just make sure the pipe is fully supported on a bed of weak concrete and fully compacted all around, not pea shingle.

Because you catch yourself on the handle as you flit about.