Russell griffiths

Or you could drill a deep hole 150mm and resin fix in a threaded rod joiner, these are about 50mm long. when this has gone off you can insert a bolt from the top to go into the hole and pick up the stud joiner that is already epoxy fixed in place.

How about. drill all the way through, down through the ceiling, then countersink in your washer and nut. then you can do two things. either get the holes repaired, it’s only plasterboard and a bit of skim. or put a wooden trim around that edge of the ceiling. either an mdf trim painted to match the ceiling, or maybe a nice piece of hardwood stained to match your doors or other trims in the house. just a thought.

I’ve got that dewalt one, it’s ok, also had every other version of paslode. ifyou go for the dewalt make sure it’s the type 3 gun. don’t buy a second hand type 2. I think the thing to ask is what do you want the nail to look like. first and second fix nails are very different and leave a very different finish. also you have full head and clipped head nails. clipped head nails come in a strip and have a third of the head missing to enable them to fire from the gun. a nail with a full head has to come from a coil nailer. These nails come on a round roll and are held together by a thin wire. if firing into soft wood and a good fixing is required you normally use a full head as it’s harder to pull the timber over a full head. nobody adheres to this and 90% of the nails used are clipped head. try and look for some examples, and decide if the clipped head finish is what you like.

For the cheap cost of the cable, why not run something bigger just in case you want to take something else of it, pump or lights. just a thought.

If the toilet is the important bit I would look at where your foul drain is in the garden, and look how deep it is as you will need to connect into that.

Has anyone else done this down the street, I think I would find out how viable it is before paying for an architect.

The first thing I would look at is what planning permission you would need i didn’t think permitted development extended to the front of a property beyond the existing front elevation, unless it’s just a small porch of a few square metres. im presuming your 3x3 means metres not feet, so 3x3 is 9 m square.

Hi you need to stop and get some questions answered first. do not organise the re wire yet, it could definitely get in the way of future work. you need a clear picture of what renovations need doing and then a schedule of what goes in first. I suppose the big question is budget being as none of us will be coming around to do this work you can be open about your budget and what you want to achieve, also how long are you going to be there. is it £10,000 and chuck it back on the market £25,000 and going to be here 5 years, or long term I want to improve this place as best I can, then some pictures. without knowing your budget it’s fairly hard to start pointing at the bits where best to spend the money. you can do some very simple sums and then work out how much you have left for improvements.

Looks like a welded vinyl to me. can you get on it ?

Has the wall had an injected damp course put in and the lower plaster removed and replaced. they normally replace the lower half with sand and cement with waterproofing. this can cause any damp to to then re appear at the path of least resistance which is the top of the new sand n cement plaster. just a thought.

180 grit. get a professional adjustable pole and a frame that takes a roller sleeve with a fitting in both ends, not a sleeve that pushes onto a cage roller handle, you will get a better even pressure on the roller. Hamilton perfection roller sleeve 12 inch, medium pile. £20 for 3. get 4inch for the edges.

Had another look while having lunch @Mulberry View i have seen your set up before but had forgotten, getting bloody old I’m afraid. the zink fixes down with a clip, this clip has a raw plug looking thing that punches through the insulation, it is hollow like a drinking straw but with a washer at the bottom, once you have pushed it through the insulation you drop a screw down the straw, it hits the washer at the bottom and you screw it into the plywood. so I defo think your drawing is fine. the only thing stopping you adding more insulation would be if the manufacturers make this clip/ straw thing in different lengths, or do you add a longer screw. a question for the roof manufacturer. all looks good to me know. just got to get a continuous vcl from the walls to the one on the roof.

I’m curious about this fix down detail so I did a google search it looks like a standard detail what you have there, look on VM zinc. so I’m presuming there’s a clever fixing that goes through the insulation into the plywood underneath. if this is the case I think everything is ok, I’m only familiar with a system that fits to a solid substrate. so it’s better I don’t continue second guessing your buildup, without the full knowledge of what system your using. look on the manufacturer website I think you are ok.

I would take your zinc guy out to lunch with all your roof details and pay him for 2 hours of his time. As far as I’m aware your zink will sit on a continuous membrane that covers a sheet of ply. your insulation sits on the tops of the rafters. does the insulation require a sheet of ply /osb to stop it crushing onto the rafters ????? the drawing the architect has done is a similar spec to a rubber membrane type roof where the rubber is adhered to the insulation, the insulation normally has a fleece face and the membrane is glued to this. there is nothing in that drawing to show a zinc fixing. I would also talk to the zinc supplier and get a fix down drawing. have you fitted the roof joists yet ?

What I’m not seeing in your drawing @Mulberry View is how the standing seam is fixed down. every time I’ve seen it it’s fitted with a clip or bracket screwed down to the wooden substrate. your drawing to me looks like you have the kingspan insulation and then a separation membrane then the zinc. how’s this zink fixed down.

No skylights, but the whole living area is vaulted ceiling, so there’s only 400mm between you and the outside.

I believe the standard blocks are 0.22. the new blocks are 100mm insulation inside and outside. talking to nudura it seems the new blocks have been made for the European market, they are not sold in Canada where I believe it’s slightly colder than here. IMHO you do not need to do anything with your block walls, that item on your list is done, tick it off and forget it it’s finished. you do however have some details to sort out joining your roof to your walls, this is the area to spend your time. I would build some mock ups of your roof buildup, and see how it all connects. im unsure how your roof sheets fit down if you don’t have a second plywood layer. 120mm of pir is not enough, I would also say I believe your roof will be noisy, we have standing seam with 200mm of rockwool between the joists, then 75mm of pir under the joists, then a batten with 25mm of rock wool sound slab then 15mm blue plasterboard. the rain is definitely noisy, is it unpleasant ? Not really, is it silent ? Definitely not.

Are you mixing up names. coach bolts- these would go through the timber and out the other side with a nut and washer. coach screws these go in to a set depth and are held in by the physical grab of the screw against the timber. Coach bolts- you would need to drive a tank against that glass to get it to fail, then the glass would fail first, so this method would pass any spec it needs to. coachscrews- driving one of these 200mm into oak, you will need to do some rigorous testing to get this right, you won’t drive them in without a pilot hole, hole too tight you risk sheering of the head of the bolt, hole too big and you comprise the pull out strength. I believe they will need to be stainless going into oak, you will also have to spec the strength of them, some stainless can have the strength of firm cheese. if you get the spec right, the coach screws will take a huge amount of pressure to pull them up enough to get any movement in the bottom glass channel. have you looked at drilling a larger hole and resin fixing in a stainless stud with a nut on the top, there are particular resins that work on timber not concrete. having done a fair amount of demolition I would be happy using any fixing into oak as it has good pull out strength. but all this might need passing by a structural engineer.

I’m afraid I consider it a solution to a problem that shouldn’t exist if the job was detailed correctly in the first place and the work carried out accordingly. if your doing a re- furb or trying to fix others work then that’s fine, but building something from scratch there’s no excuse for poor details.

Buy a length of 25/ 28mm internal insulation and cut and secure around the fittings.

Reliance is a very well known valve/pneumatic type company they where bought out by John guest. it’s good gear.

Mud room @SuperJohnG your not a yank are you.

Maybe you need an extra helping of that muscle fuel, ya big tart.

You can take a very rough punt and say that the top of those doors is 2100 high, you then need 300mm above those to ceiling height 2400 then 300mm for floor thickness, enlarge that drawing up and do a rough scale. looks to me like that room will be a tiny triangle without adding a large dormer.