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ColdOutside

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  1. Any info on this? Cannot categorically say it’s linked, but likely. Would the rebuild be more expensive than a traditional foundation? Would you take on land like this?
  2. So you’d fix through the insulation into the joists? And then fix through metal sheet into top osb only? Seems not a good enough fix for the sheet.
  3. I have an existing lean to that is leaking through the underfelt. It’s tiled well but I suspect there isn’t enough fall. I was hoping to remove all tiles, felt and battens and squeeze in a warm roof without changing the existing lead flashing and existing roof joists. I was hoping to fit 11mm osb directly to joists then 50mm PIR and then another 11mm osb with a final corrugated metal roof with a underfelt (drip stop) for condensation control. Does this sound viable? Would you screw the metal sheet roof all the way through the warm roof to the joists to sandwich altogether or would this compromise the warm roof? How does all the above fix without compromising the warm roof?
  4. Yeah not too much room so 70mm is about max. Using a osb finish internally not plaster board.
  5. That’s pretty much the plan. Is the 70mm battens to allow a 20mm air gap?
  6. Thanks for clad rec. I don’t see how stud design will change? If I use say a 50mm solid insulation on wall it’ll just give me a ledge internally which I’m ok with as need the space really.
  7. Not sure natural slate would really resonate with a black timber vibe.
  8. I was actually half opting to save costs as less clad material in theory, due to gaps. 1 roll of this — https://www.ecologicalbuildingsystems.com/product/solitex-fronta-quattro ~£400 70mm clads * 85 — https://www.timberulove.co.uk/products/siberian-larch-charred-cladding-battens-a-grade-22mm-thickness-square-edge/?attribute_dimensions=20+mm+x+70+mm+x+3000+mm+-+£13.73 ~ £1.1k £1,5k total for clad, plus the little extras. Can the above look be done cheaper? Think it's roughly 20sqm.
  9. Yep would rather do full metric, my mistake really for not questioning it. Read a lot about open rainscreen. I can’t really see any reason to avoid? Building position is not particular open to elements and I like the design of it over block on block. Still may change mind but I’m after this design. Not decided on insulation for lowers as there is already a timber skin inside which I haven’t removed to see what’s behind.
  10. Do I just forget about imperial then? I shouldn’t be mixing?
  11. Complete novice getting mixed up with imperial and metric I suspect. If I'm using 2x4 at 1.5" x 3.5" then surely I have to mix metric and imperial? My OSB above still lands bang on center line?
  12. So I'm slotting the frame under the existing top plate which holds the roof joists, hence why I've not done a double as it runs the whole length of outbuilding. I'm trying to do stuff properly, but I am a complete novice so welcome as much advice as possible. It's an old lathe workshop that I'm turning into an office.
  13. Yep, got a UV/black membrane to go on, as it's an open rain screen it'll be visible, so a bit pricey. Also, if it's already an open membrane, no point having a insect barrier is there?
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