Russell griffiths

From those figures it’s £60 times 12-14 doors that’s a grand. My 35mm solid cores turned up today, I really don’t want them a lot heavier they where a pig to carry around the house.

Buy solid core doors not hollow core. You can also go 44mm for a heavy feel.

Only if you build it yourself. Oxford prices are not a lot different to London prices. From a builders point of view it looks like a pain in the arse job, so expect a bit of that added to the cost.

Depending on what your outer wall finish is I wouldn’t want dissimilar materials. Rendering across eps onto concrete blocks is asking for a crack in my opinion.

if this is what your after then bite the bullet and get it done, strip foundation, two courses of Nudura, couple of lengths of floor beam and a dozen blocks, build it in to the side pillars. Strip of the Nudura to the pillars on the inside faces, resin fix in some rebar and pour it.

Don’t you have half a dozen Nudura blocks spare. I would get it done in one continuous material.

If you have gas, I cannot for the life of me see why you want induction, what do you think it’s benefits are.

You need a few things, but first you need to get all these answers and collate them so you can get a system installed that will do what you want. Then you need to tell your installer exactly how it must be done, without pictures we are guessing a bit, so it might take a few days to get the exact remedy for this. Timberframe house with a brick skin, the chances are that the timber he ripped out was actually a fire stop, these are installed at window and door reveals to prevent the spread of fire within the cavity. They can also act as a cavity closer. The chances are your cavity is cold and draughty so the block of timber was holding the draft at bay, by removing this and fitting insulation badly he’s allowed the cold to whistle behind the plasterboard and come in at any tiny hole. You need to find a method to fix 4 things fire stopping damp from outside to inside cold from the cavity cold from the outer brickwork you might find one one of the new fangled cavity closers will do all of these when fitted correctly or you might find they will do a couple of the points and you need to add something else to complete it properly. You might find you you don’t need fire stopping on the ground floor doors. Someone on here will will be able to clarify that. Im just trying to get the ball rolling for you. Just to throw a spanner in the works, did you move the door to Within the insulated part of the house or are the still in the cold brickwork.

The AAV needs to be accessible, I believe it’s a building regs thing. They do fail so this would be the first point I would look.

No. This is a stupid idea. Sorry but it is. Lay them properly and check level with with a straightedge, it’s how it’s been done for years before levelling systems came about.

In my opinion the tec sound and vcl are in the wrong place, I would have them on the room side of the pir. Have tec sound said this this is where it should go. I would also also look at the weight you are adding, have you had it calculated with two layers of 12.5 plasterboard. That is a huge weight.

Large format tiles 600x1200, minimal grout lines.

Concrete footings turned out to be 1m wide with a 300mm slab on top, I had guessed it would be 100 mm thick at best.

That looks really good, I take it you got some professional in to help you.

Tape all the pir with foil tape, over the studs and any fixing holes. You might need a bit of ventilation in there. Maybe one of the new fangled positive input things, not my thing so ask on here for some guidance.

You could probably do with saying how big this is, and what the floor is made up of. My wife has a garden office that is poorly insulated in my view, but stays warm enough for her to work very comfortable all year round, with only a small oil filled electric heater, I think this is due to its small size. I think if you doubled its size the cost to heat it would be painful. You only buy the insulation once, you will pay to heat it forever.

You could look at knauf Omni fit and fully fill between the studs, then 50mm pir over the top on the inside. Really depends what you want the building for and what months of the year you will use it. Give us a better idea of what hat you are trying to achieve.

I’m not as clued up as some on here with insulation values, but I would say your 100mm acoustic roll is very inadequate. If you are set on that, then I would add 50mm pir on the inside then a timber batten for a service void then plasterboard.

If you don’t want to split thin battens, 3.2 for everything apart from high quality cladding.

Yes the 2.8 is thinner than the 3.2. And in fact the 3.2 are fatter than 2.8. 😂😂😂 For your framing nailer you want 3.2 x 34degree minimum galv, for outside hotdipped galv.

I must admit I agree. You’re just braver than me to say it.

Use a pre mixed product in a bag, this will save problems trying to work out correct mix.

Are you sure it’s 22mm and not overflow pipe size, you know the traditional toilet overflow stuff, if it’s that, then you can get a reducing boss that glues from that to 40mm strap on boss on the 110mm. Had a quick google. Overflow pipe is 21.5mm in new money, so that might be what your after. Standard stuff is just for drainage and can be brittle, you can get pressure pipe fittings that are used in the swimming pool industry, where pumps are involved.

Your as sinister as me.

Nobody has mentioned so I will chip in. My system is all wired back to a control panel, so in the bedroom walk in wardrobe we have a panel that shows what alarm is beeping, so if bedroom 3 is beeping and it’s just the mother in law in there you can ignore it for 10 minutes until the fumes have done her in, then go and investigate. Its got a couple of good points, you can see what is beeping if you have multiple alarms. You can silence a beeping alarm from the panel so you don’t need to stand on a chair or if you have vaulted ceilings and it’s 4m up in the air.