Russell griffiths

Just bear in mind the build cost estimates you had done probably didn’t have these details on them. what you have shown here will add thousands to the build cost. deviate from standard and add more zeros as your ideas get wilder.

I don’t think building a cheap house exists anymore, materials and labour have gone through the roof.

Did it scare the crap out of you ??

Cool, that ones twice the size of yours, yours will be a breeze.

I think @ProDave suggested an hour per point. every light switch socket is a point. so your downstairs wc would have 5 points, 3 lights a shaver socket and I would have thought a light switch. so 5 hours at £30-35 hour. labour only.

TBH 250 kg is bugger all. 125kg each end, you could build a couple of timber studs screwed to the icf at each end. a 200x48 stud in compression will hold that up no problem small 4x4 scaffolding tower in the middle for double safety I personally would put the concrete in first, but if you don’t want to deviate from your drawings then that’s up to you. I would have questioned this detail long ago.

Are the concrete panels actually the structure, or is there a steel frame and the concrete is just a skin, like the old 1950’s pre fabs.

Yep, it’s a PITA you cut out the ridge and cut the rafters back to the correct length, then fit a timber into the web of the steel and lift it up to the full height. it can be easier to remove all the old rafters and ridge and replace with new steel ridge and wooden rafters.

Why the timber floor ? you could use block n beam or concrete slab. you are making a lot of work for yourself for no apparent benefit .

My two thoughts. how big an area is the cedar, you might want to re think this once you have the prices. we used western red cedar and after covid it doubled in price, it has since gone up at least another 50%. you might find an English grown cedar to be cheaper, or local larch. with the insulation boards, find a supplier that details all the fixing schedules and what to render it with, if they cannot supply all this information then look at a different supplier for the insulation. do not second guess it.

based in the midlands, I would think it will be expensive, because they have a set up charge for different colours. so a one of thing requires the gun to be cleaned out for a new colour. can you get the trim and spray it, you can get the colour matched and put in a spray can by your local paint trade place.

Do you actually mean aluminium, or aluminium clad timber. standard aluminium doesn’t provide a very good u value, unless you go for some expensive stuff. timberclad I believe provides the best u value for the money spent.

3 years I think.

When you put the rental property on your tax return all sorts of things could happen. did you claim the cil dispensation for it being your principal residence.

Allow £5000 for a patio door at the very least. £1800-2000 for a front door. and £1200 for a back door. but it really does depend what quality you want to build to. I can buy a pvc back door for £600 and self install it, but there pretty shite and better suited to a renovation or a tart up and sell project.

@Kelvin i have a Graf unit. if you look at the riser for the lid of the tank it comes with additional 110mm rubber grommets to put additional pipes in. I have a 110mm vent pipe that vents the tank over to a shed and up the back wall of the shed. I also have a short external vent pipe on the beginning of the run, as long as there are no windows above it you can use a short stack.

Polyurethane adhesive.

Don’t render it. cover the column in insulation and then clad it in an aluminium trim to match the doors. I had a trim custom folded from aluminium and powder coated to match. £120 all done.

No carrier board, waterproof render with mesh on the icf. exterior slip adhesive on the back of the stone onto the render, with stainless steel ties into the plastic webs. I cut the stone in half so only needed to buy half as much. if you can do this job yourself then all good, if you need to pay for it, it will be too expensive. you would need to go for one of the tile products. as labour will make the cost horrendous, I spent 5 days just cutting the stone down, clipper petrol brick saw.

Forget tape and go for one of the liquid sealer locktight 577 I think is the number. check that available in most plumbers merchants.

All this talk about setting out. why get a surveying company to do it, I used a local company so only 15 mins of travelling, hour and a half on site, you would have been at it for a couple of days trying to do my place. if you have for external corners on a box house then ok but anything more complicated it’s £2-300 well spent. I’ve seen lads with 20 years experience build on the wrong side of a line so 300mm out.

im doing this, Cotswold stone cut down to form a stone slip.

Does the pipe need to be that high. it should rally be down in the soil or hardcore layer will your height outside allow you to drop it below the insulation.

Look that up,