Russell griffiths

Easy option phone a company and get someone else to do it 180mm is very different to 100mm its a massive bit and will be a bastard to use, unless you hire the right kit with pedestal. get a quote, but by the time you hire it and all the agro you might be better off paying for it to be done.

Just thinking in common sense basically if your in the kitchen and a fire breaks out you will run out the back door, if your in the front room you will run out the front door. but if you are upstairs and your route to outside is blocked by fire you will want to hide behind a fire protected door until help arrives. look at it like this and walk around thinking how you will get out. Obviously check the regs, but that’s the general gist of it.

AFAIK as soon as your cables leave the lighting control unit they will be in low voltage, so it’s nice to comply with safe zones, but not always practical, so it goes out the window a bit. also the ceiling above the beam is a safe zone , so as long as your 50mm in from the face it’s safe so the only bit not in a safe zone is the 200mm from the ceiling to the bottom of the steel, if somebody can see the lights on the beam and a cable entering the wall, they would need to be pretty stupid to drill in that area. and if they did it’s a 12 volt cable anyway.

If you have smart controls for lighting then just run a light feed back to the main light control station and leave it dormant, if you want it drill a 20mm hole in the plasterboard and fish it out with a coat hanger. run a 5 core cable in case you go coloured lights.

Evening, filling in Jeremy Harris heat loss calculator I understand Jeremy built this to work out where best to spend his money in his build. however if I want to use it to help understand the size of a heat pump I need, what should I put in the outside temperature box. jeremy used minus 10, so probably the worst case scenario should I use a more real world figure like 0 or minus 2, the met office is saying the average minimum temp in January is 1.23 whats best to get some real world figures out of it. cheers. Russ.

Yep like this. we have a big beam in the ceiling with track lights supposed to go on it. the wires are all in behind the plasterboard going back to a switch, if you never do it the wires are there waiting, for when you do do it. get rid of that socket and have the light feed behind that bit of wall, when you do it you can cut in a surface plate with an access hole.

I used an insulation board under the door and into the threshold, then fibreglass mesh and a self leveling compound and then it’s made into a mat well for a large door mat, our back door will get a lot of usage.

do you mean like this.

Got it now, cheers.

Thanks both of you will try later on a computer, on the I pad at the moment.

Hi all I’ve tried to open Jeremy’s HLC and telling me it’s not available can somebody else have a go and see if it’s working please. cheers all.

You will need to use a fair face block which doesn’t have all the little dimples in it, painting onto standard concrete blocks will give it the appearance of a cheap garage. the time you have paid the extra for the blocks and the paint and painted it you could have had it rendered.

I would grab a chainsaw and cut every single one of those joist out. fix a ledger board around the whole perimeter of the blockwork, fixed using resin anchors with a mesh sleeve into the holes to allow for the dodgy blocks. then fit new metal web joists to the whole area. far easier to get all your new services in, will be flat and level. all depends on how far you want to go. or alternatively remove all services. cut existing joists out from the pockets in the wall, fit a ledger board along that wall and fit the old joist to the new ledger board with hangers, changing the spacing to 400centres, add new joists to make up the short fall. or something like that.

More context needed is this a full renovation ? ceilings down, no floors upstairs, no electrics no plumbing. this will be such an awkward job. any pictures

My steel that is huge the one we where going to leave exposed didn’t need any form of protection if there is not a habitable room above it then I don’t think it needs it. but don’t quote me on that.

@LiamJones I’ve re read your original post, so if one of the junctions is just a utility room with no wc, then yes you can use a y junction as per @Jenki diagram. I originally thought you wanted two WC coming in from both directions. so you probably need two y junctions laying flat, not what you have in your first picture from the y junctions you would go left to the WC and soil stack and right to the utility room. you will need to put rest bends on the bottom of the pipes going vertical through the floor.

Nope, you shouldn’t have any branch line that does not have cleaning access from at least one end. so either an inspection chamber outside the build to clear inwards or an inspection point in the pipe as soon as it exits the floor. the second version is not recommended as a full stack of poo 3m vertically will be an unpleasant surprise when you take the cap off. removing a toilet to get to a pipe is not a recognised method of clearing a blockage. can this joint not be put in above floor height so access to clear. I think we need a drawing and a bit of a re design.

If they haven’t pointed it yet who’s doing that once you piss them off. have a chat and see if you can come to a price halfway. im not saying they are right, i just think your not in a good place to argue. Did they presume the forklift would be there always, or was it made clear to them it was only for stone. if they have more to do i would hire an electric hoist that connects to the scaffolding and can lift up a big bucket.

How will you clear this if blocked. should be two separate runs outside the building to a chamber so they can be cleaned from the chamber back into the house. unless I’ve misunderstood what your trying to do. diagram would help.

You normally need to think/work backward, so start with plasterboard, and think what way you want to fix it, vertically or horizontally. then work back from that. look up a product called ISOVER it’s an insulation product, they have a fair few YouTube videos on adding extra fluffy type insulation between battens.

Would disagree with that one. 180m in traditional was £3500 for mine, liquid flow screed was about £5000

Pir board over the studs, all taped together, foamed and sealed around sockets, taped to floor and ceiling plasterboard can go directly onto this with long screws, or add a batten and fit plasterboard to that. or you can use a 50x50 batten and I fill with a rockwool type slab, and plasterboard onto the battens. lots of ways to skin this cat,

This all really depends on how far you want to go and what you want to spend. I would do a room by room analysis of all things you want to change plug sockets, I bet you don’t have enough then work out your budget and then come back with more questions if it was me I would rip the plasterboard off, if I’m going to all this trouble I want to know if the frame is in good Nick, has there been any water in the cavity, then I would add more sockets and change the plumbing to how I want it. then install insulation over the top, vcl and and re board it. pladter, skirting and then decoration.

Why not work out the cost of 75mm thats a lot more product if you have a good size area. could be cheaper to go traditional sand and cement, or add 25mm more insulation.

If your set on ripping out the vcl and adding new plasterboard, then I would rip it all out back to the timberframe. look at what insulation is there and improve/ remove that, then add more better installed and then insulate over the face of the studs, new vcl and batten and plasterboard. you could probably do this room by room if you need to live in it.