Russell griffiths

Are the concrete panels actually the structure, or is there a steel frame and the concrete is just a skin, like the old 1950’s pre fabs.

Yep, it’s a PITA you cut out the ridge and cut the rafters back to the correct length, then fit a timber into the web of the steel and lift it up to the full height. it can be easier to remove all the old rafters and ridge and replace with new steel ridge and wooden rafters.

Why the timber floor ? you could use block n beam or concrete slab. you are making a lot of work for yourself for no apparent benefit .

My two thoughts. how big an area is the cedar, you might want to re think this once you have the prices. we used western red cedar and after covid it doubled in price, it has since gone up at least another 50%. you might find an English grown cedar to be cheaper, or local larch. with the insulation boards, find a supplier that details all the fixing schedules and what to render it with, if they cannot supply all this information then look at a different supplier for the insulation. do not second guess it.

based in the midlands, I would think it will be expensive, because they have a set up charge for different colours. so a one of thing requires the gun to be cleaned out for a new colour. can you get the trim and spray it, you can get the colour matched and put in a spray can by your local paint trade place.

Do you actually mean aluminium, or aluminium clad timber. standard aluminium doesn’t provide a very good u value, unless you go for some expensive stuff. timberclad I believe provides the best u value for the money spent.

3 years I think.

When you put the rental property on your tax return all sorts of things could happen. did you claim the cil dispensation for it being your principal residence.

Allow £5000 for a patio door at the very least. £1800-2000 for a front door. and £1200 for a back door. but it really does depend what quality you want to build to. I can buy a pvc back door for £600 and self install it, but there pretty shite and better suited to a renovation or a tart up and sell project.

@Kelvin i have a Graf unit. if you look at the riser for the lid of the tank it comes with additional 110mm rubber grommets to put additional pipes in. I have a 110mm vent pipe that vents the tank over to a shed and up the back wall of the shed. I also have a short external vent pipe on the beginning of the run, as long as there are no windows above it you can use a short stack.

Polyurethane adhesive.

Don’t render it. cover the column in insulation and then clad it in an aluminium trim to match the doors. I had a trim custom folded from aluminium and powder coated to match. £120 all done.

No carrier board, waterproof render with mesh on the icf. exterior slip adhesive on the back of the stone onto the render, with stainless steel ties into the plastic webs. I cut the stone in half so only needed to buy half as much. if you can do this job yourself then all good, if you need to pay for it, it will be too expensive. you would need to go for one of the tile products. as labour will make the cost horrendous, I spent 5 days just cutting the stone down, clipper petrol brick saw.

Forget tape and go for one of the liquid sealer locktight 577 I think is the number. check that available in most plumbers merchants.

All this talk about setting out. why get a surveying company to do it, I used a local company so only 15 mins of travelling, hour and a half on site, you would have been at it for a couple of days trying to do my place. if you have for external corners on a box house then ok but anything more complicated it’s £2-300 well spent. I’ve seen lads with 20 years experience build on the wrong side of a line so 300mm out.

im doing this, Cotswold stone cut down to form a stone slip.

Does the pipe need to be that high. it should rally be down in the soil or hardcore layer will your height outside allow you to drop it below the insulation.

Look that up,

Or you could drill a deep hole 150mm and resin fix in a threaded rod joiner, these are about 50mm long. when this has gone off you can insert a bolt from the top to go into the hole and pick up the stud joiner that is already epoxy fixed in place.

How about. drill all the way through, down through the ceiling, then countersink in your washer and nut. then you can do two things. either get the holes repaired, it’s only plasterboard and a bit of skim. or put a wooden trim around that edge of the ceiling. either an mdf trim painted to match the ceiling, or maybe a nice piece of hardwood stained to match your doors or other trims in the house. just a thought.

I’ve got that dewalt one, it’s ok, also had every other version of paslode. ifyou go for the dewalt make sure it’s the type 3 gun. don’t buy a second hand type 2. I think the thing to ask is what do you want the nail to look like. first and second fix nails are very different and leave a very different finish. also you have full head and clipped head nails. clipped head nails come in a strip and have a third of the head missing to enable them to fire from the gun. a nail with a full head has to come from a coil nailer. These nails come on a round roll and are held together by a thin wire. if firing into soft wood and a good fixing is required you normally use a full head as it’s harder to pull the timber over a full head. nobody adheres to this and 90% of the nails used are clipped head. try and look for some examples, and decide if the clipped head finish is what you like.

For the cheap cost of the cable, why not run something bigger just in case you want to take something else of it, pump or lights. just a thought.

If the toilet is the important bit I would look at where your foul drain is in the garden, and look how deep it is as you will need to connect into that.

Has anyone else done this down the street, I think I would find out how viable it is before paying for an architect.