Russell griffiths

How will you clear this if blocked. should be two separate runs outside the building to a chamber so they can be cleaned from the chamber back into the house. unless I’ve misunderstood what your trying to do. diagram would help.

You normally need to think/work backward, so start with plasterboard, and think what way you want to fix it, vertically or horizontally. then work back from that. look up a product called ISOVER it’s an insulation product, they have a fair few YouTube videos on adding extra fluffy type insulation between battens.

Would disagree with that one. 180m in traditional was £3500 for mine, liquid flow screed was about £5000

Pir board over the studs, all taped together, foamed and sealed around sockets, taped to floor and ceiling plasterboard can go directly onto this with long screws, or add a batten and fit plasterboard to that. or you can use a 50x50 batten and I fill with a rockwool type slab, and plasterboard onto the battens. lots of ways to skin this cat,

This all really depends on how far you want to go and what you want to spend. I would do a room by room analysis of all things you want to change plug sockets, I bet you don’t have enough then work out your budget and then come back with more questions if it was me I would rip the plasterboard off, if I’m going to all this trouble I want to know if the frame is in good Nick, has there been any water in the cavity, then I would add more sockets and change the plumbing to how I want it. then install insulation over the top, vcl and and re board it. pladter, skirting and then decoration.

Why not work out the cost of 75mm thats a lot more product if you have a good size area. could be cheaper to go traditional sand and cement, or add 25mm more insulation.

If your set on ripping out the vcl and adding new plasterboard, then I would rip it all out back to the timberframe. look at what insulation is there and improve/ remove that, then add more better installed and then insulate over the face of the studs, new vcl and batten and plasterboard. you could probably do this room by room if you need to live in it.

Forget the footings, how are you separating it from the cavity or the outside. don’t have it on show it will look shit, it’s not an old 1860 factory your converting. insulate it then board it. I was going to have a huge steel in the ceiling exposed, was even looking for fake rivet heads to glue on, we boarded it and painted it, I don’t know what we were thinking.

Why build them into a cassette ? stick build it on site and clad it in osb all on-site. theres 3-4 that have done this i believe. @Gone West and @Patrick

You can search out a s trap toilet if you want, but you generally you use a p trap and use a pan connection that goes vertically down into your soil pipe.

Sandy good draining soil, I would look at an insulated raft foundation. as said detail the airtightness, it’s just as important as insulation. come back and ask more questions

Build the extensions out of an eps icf block, then fit Ewi in eps all on the old bit, this will give a uniform exterior material to render onto. probably eps beads in the old cavity, but I’ve never used that so someone else will need to comment on that. isn’t fitting Ewi pointless without sorting the cavity insulation ?.

With a pre formed attic truss there’s no easy solution. put the radio on and get your scissors out, every one you tape around is one less you have to do tomorrow. head down arse up, get it done. I personally would cut 600x600 squares of vcl and cut these in around the uprights, then when you come along with the big roll you can cut it very rough and tape it on to the neat squares you have already sealed.

Isn’t there a specific concrete for farm buildings something to do with animal urine if I remember.

Very surprised, our triple glazed units are 48mm wide just the glass, with frame there closer to 125mm.

If your fitting a triple glazed window back in there, do you not have a drawing of the frame dimensions, I very much doubt it will be 70mm.

Not permanently you plonker, just so the wife can make up her mind.

You need to set the architrave back from the face of the liner at least 6mm, modern hinges have a bigger barrel now, this will catch the architrave.

Make a pair out of mdf and see what there like, you can use them as a tester for your wonky hole spaces 😁

How about a pair of 300 doors, less door in the way. ??????????????????????????????????????????

Door liners fit any height and width door, all you change is the wall width. a lining kit will come either 2100 high or 2200 high and with a head that you cut to size so will fit any door from 838 to 762. make sure you pick done widths suitable for wheelchair access if you need it.

Where is the stud wall going. is it just to fill the gap between the two doors. mark all this out on the floor properly, there’s nothing worse than seeing architrave stuffed up against something with little thought to getting a good aesthetic look. you need to know architrave size and door sizes.

You need more details on that drawing, a better understanding of how you are going to clad the outside would show what you need to do to get the two outer surfaces working together. regarding the sole plate, can you not use 200mm and span both leaves.

Have seen this done exactly how you have drawn it. you will need to ensure that plenums for the mvhr are scrupulously sealed around, and also where the ducts drop into the plant room area.

I’ve just osmo oil my oak doors, one coat before fitting to protect the grain from picking up dust, and a second coat once fitted. absolutely no chance of drips if you apply lightly as it says on the tin, and then use a lint free cloth to rub it in and spread evenly.