Russell griffiths

Forget the footings, how are you separating it from the cavity or the outside. don’t have it on show it will look shit, it’s not an old 1860 factory your converting. insulate it then board it. I was going to have a huge steel in the ceiling exposed, was even looking for fake rivet heads to glue on, we boarded it and painted it, I don’t know what we were thinking.

Why build them into a cassette ? stick build it on site and clad it in osb all on-site. theres 3-4 that have done this i believe. @Gone West and @Patrick

You can search out a s trap toilet if you want, but you generally you use a p trap and use a pan connection that goes vertically down into your soil pipe.

Sandy good draining soil, I would look at an insulated raft foundation. as said detail the airtightness, it’s just as important as insulation. come back and ask more questions

Build the extensions out of an eps icf block, then fit Ewi in eps all on the old bit, this will give a uniform exterior material to render onto. probably eps beads in the old cavity, but I’ve never used that so someone else will need to comment on that. isn’t fitting Ewi pointless without sorting the cavity insulation ?.

With a pre formed attic truss there’s no easy solution. put the radio on and get your scissors out, every one you tape around is one less you have to do tomorrow. head down arse up, get it done. I personally would cut 600x600 squares of vcl and cut these in around the uprights, then when you come along with the big roll you can cut it very rough and tape it on to the neat squares you have already sealed.

Isn’t there a specific concrete for farm buildings something to do with animal urine if I remember.

Very surprised, our triple glazed units are 48mm wide just the glass, with frame there closer to 125mm.

If your fitting a triple glazed window back in there, do you not have a drawing of the frame dimensions, I very much doubt it will be 70mm.

Not permanently you plonker, just so the wife can make up her mind.

You need to set the architrave back from the face of the liner at least 6mm, modern hinges have a bigger barrel now, this will catch the architrave.

Make a pair out of mdf and see what there like, you can use them as a tester for your wonky hole spaces 😁

How about a pair of 300 doors, less door in the way. ??????????????????????????????????????????

Door liners fit any height and width door, all you change is the wall width. a lining kit will come either 2100 high or 2200 high and with a head that you cut to size so will fit any door from 838 to 762. make sure you pick done widths suitable for wheelchair access if you need it.

Where is the stud wall going. is it just to fill the gap between the two doors. mark all this out on the floor properly, there’s nothing worse than seeing architrave stuffed up against something with little thought to getting a good aesthetic look. you need to know architrave size and door sizes.

You need more details on that drawing, a better understanding of how you are going to clad the outside would show what you need to do to get the two outer surfaces working together. regarding the sole plate, can you not use 200mm and span both leaves.

Have seen this done exactly how you have drawn it. you will need to ensure that plenums for the mvhr are scrupulously sealed around, and also where the ducts drop into the plant room area.

I’ve just osmo oil my oak doors, one coat before fitting to protect the grain from picking up dust, and a second coat once fitted. absolutely no chance of drips if you apply lightly as it says on the tin, and then use a lint free cloth to rub it in and spread evenly.

snap, used the mosaic render from the ewi store.

I suggest you do some testing. It sticks eps to eps but try sticking the cement board to the eps, been there tried that. The only method I found has been mentioned, a coat of render then tile adhesive, or just render it. James hardie make a board for exterior use it comes in various sizes and colours.

Clear everything, but you must also clear all the debris, do not leave any piles of timber just in case it’s used by some rare newt or something. Literally strim it down to a flat lawn. If planning was unsuccessful could the adjacent houses be interested in putting a couple of garages on it, just a back up plan to cover your investment.

I have done exactly this. But ive found a problem with expansion/ contraction, if I used a length of cement board longer than 2m they crack as the weather changes.

I can recommend James hardie boards, however you will struggle to stick anything onto the eps. Unless you have found some miraculous sticky thing, I rendered my plinth with a waterproof render finished with a marble/ silicon top coat. Finished in a dark grey so it looks like a traditional renderered plinth.

Building a habitable room under that roof without fully replacing it, is probably the silliest thing I’ve heard in a while. Any wind driven rain will just leak through onto the insulation, it will then track down the insulation until it finds a way out onto the plasterboard ceiling, you won’t be able to pinpoint the leak as it won’t appear where it originally came from.

Pull it out put a screw in, fill the hole. It will take longer to drive to the merchant to take it back.