Russell griffiths

My personal opinion obviously your front door needs redesigning the location is too close to the side wall, you will have problems once that wall is plastered, the door will never open properly and will always be a PITA. A 100mm stub wall should have been built to allow the door to open 120 degrees, you will struggle to get that to open to 90.

I don’t believe any type of survey,will provide the layout of the drainage field. what you can find out is the start of it, the second it branches of into a herringbone pattern then I think you will have problems with the camera. you will be able to plot the tank location and the direction of travel of the pipe, then the beginning of the drainage field. I would have thought just standing in the garden you would get a reasonable idea where it would be. but before you spend £300, what would happen if it’s not where you would like it. if for instance it travels too far into your plot, but would be ok being further back to the boundary, how will this be achieved. would the vendors be willing to relocate it closer to the boundary is there room to put it in their land. could you install a new one and share it. I think I would ask all these questions, because as soon as you find out it’s not where you want it, it’s game over unless you have a solution already in place.

You really need to shop around, it is a pain and wastes time. every thing I buy over £300 I get 3 prices. just last week I needed plasterboard and some osb. 3 merchants that I have accounts with all 3. cheapest £460, next £480, dearest £540. on just a few sheets of stuff, that’s a fair difference between the 3.

4.9 kw panels on the roof, how and when will I use any power generated ? we both work from home. Highly insulated icf house, very airtight. ASHP UFH. Everywhere This is coming from my complete panic of having battery storage in the attached garage. I believe it’s something serious that building regs are looking into due to the increased number of fires caused by batteries, not necessarily solar batteries, but battery fires in general. I might be over panicking, but if I can run my house fairly efficiently then I would rather forget battery storage. yours mr over panicking from Cirencester.

@Carly Lawson there’s nothing to apologise for, I just think you are jumping to decisions after talking to someone selling a product. it’s like the saying, don’t ask a barber if you need a haircut. I would say do more research, and then base your answers on sound evidence. you have mentioned wall thickness a couple of times, unless your land is only a few metres wide then 50mm wider or thinner is not going to matter. the crane comment was in regards to a timberframe house, like saying timberframe was cheaper, but forgetting you needed a crane to put it up. I think we’re hijacking the original post here, so maybe start your one about your journey and hopefully we can point you in the right direction there.

I think you need to do some more detailed research. some of your points mentioned here are ludicrous. very few things you build with will be made in England thinking something is expensive because it needs additional bracing to erect it is like saying timberframe is cheaper, but forgetting you need a crane to put it up. my bracing cost for my icf was around £1000 for a 240m build. Picking a product like durisol because it doesn’t require bracing is absolutely bonkers. look at the products in detail and then break the cost down versus the benefit.

You will need to remove the whole roof structure and start again tiles off, rafters off, ceiling down ceiling joists down. then you wil need all new rafter done to the correct spec for that span, the rafters either side of the roof windows will need to be doubled up to take the load. it will all need fixing down correctly, as you have removed the ceiling joists which are acting as a support for the roof and to stop it spreading. if you just remove the ceiling joists you will end up with your roof tiles sitting in the kitchen.

We have built what is called a butlers pantry its a separate room beside the kitchen, it has the biggest sink I could find, it will fit the full width tray from the oven for a soak, it also has the dishwasher in it. so prep and cook in the kitchen and chuck the pans into the pantry to hide because we have an open plan kitchen diner and don’t want to stare at pots and pans while we eat dinner. its a foreign idea normally used in America and Australia.

We have gone a bit off piste and fitted two sinks. a small nice looking thing for veg chopping and prep, then a dirty big one for washing up.

Get a camera survey done.

If turning this garage into a habitable room, just make sure you have a fire escape plan in your head, before you finally commit.

Yes. You need to protect it from chafing and also provide air sealing to the hole you just made.

I think your getting your piling techniques mixed up. he’s talking about vibrated stone columns to build a house on top of.

Unless I’m wrong which I’m happy to be. you won’t get a vibrio rig on your site without knocking the bungalow down, I’ve never seen a small one. you can get small piling rigs to drive a steel driven pile, or a small rig for a bored pile, but all the vibrio ones are huge bits of kit. ask @ToughButterCup I believe to underpin with a steel driven pile they smash it in close to the original foundation and underpin the original with a concrete cap.

The other thing to consider is get planning for a demo and rebuild and sell it, go and buy another rough one and do the same until your happy you have the funds to do it yourself. or forget that quote and build one of the extensions, wait a bit and build another then take the roof off and go up. will take 5 years of living in a building site, but by employing smaller builders you could probably split the financing up a bit. sell it, all the while keeping your eye out for another cheap one in the same area.

Talk to an estate agent and find out how much all those neighbours houses are worth, then show him the pics of your ideas, try to get a feel for the finished value. then go from there.

You have your answer. you beat a developer in buying it, what do you think he wanted it for. it looks like the cheap house on the block. you always aim to buy the cheapest house in the best street, then turn it into the best house on the street. The big problem is getting the finance.

Having just flicked through your previous thread the one with the picture of your bungalow in it. that is definitely a plot in a nice street, if you put that up for sale somebody will grab that and flatten it. do you have room at the back to push a new house backwards in line with next door. show us a pic of the street view, the bungalow definitely looks like the poor brother to the house next door. knock down and rebuild looking at your design could be anything upwards of 650,000- 800,000. what would it be worth.

I have 4 wi fi points in the house. but we also have 2 external points under the soffit, should be good for 50m radius around the house.

Handy for when I do my legs.

If you have loft access which I believe you might, you can put a data cable up there going out of the facia board to a TP link external device. we are able to pick up the house wi fi from a great distance across the garden, well beyond 30m, but not measured it.

Can you run it on the surface or in the ceiling joists it all depends where your outside unit is going and your tank inside mines all surface mounted, but it runs through a garage and outside.

As far as I’m aware in a mains fed hot water tank this problem doesn’t exist.

Do yourself a really really big favour and send that back and swap it for flexible ducting. I don’t know what your design calls for but I would go 90mm rather than 75.

What air in pipes. does your house now not have pipes in the loft. the bungalow I live in now certainly has pipes that go from a cylinder up into the loft and then down to a bedroom