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We’re looking at buying from them also, on the recommendation of a friend. Would you mind sharing the pricing you’ve received?

We’ve got two floors’ worth of habitable rooms being supported by the steels (Victorian semi with loft extension), so highly likely we’re going to have to coat.

This is indeed news to me; I hadn't considered not using intumescent paint. Is the need for it a question for building control or a structural engineer?

Thank you everyone, your replies have put my mind at ease somewhat, and are much appreciated. We will of course be coating the steels with intumescent paint, then a top coat to complement the rest of the interior. All the steels sit inside the thermal envelope, aside from penetrating the floor to the footings. I’ve had standoff ears welded to the uprights to accommodate the IWI, plasterboard and finish thickness. Hoping it all works out!

We are having an extension built using a ‘goalpost’ steel support structure, with steel columns resting on the he concrete footings. The steels have already been installed, without any kind of thermal break material under the columns; they are resting on concrete pads and will penetrate through the floor slab, insulation and screed with UFH. We planned to leave the steels exposed, as a feature. We are wankers, I know. Aside from putting a 50mm PIR barrier around the base of the steel posts to separate the UFH screed from them, there’s not much else that can be done now. Are we in for a world of hurt? How bad will the thermal bridge to the footings really be? The rest of the steels will be within the thermal envelope. We aren’t building a passive house; this is an extension on the back of a solid-walled Victorian house, but we’re fitting ASHP, MVHR, EWI/IWI to most walls etc, so this thermal bridge oversight is keeping me up at night…

Instant modulation response, efficiency (directly and the exclusively heating the pan itself), better heating uniformity, ultra-quick water boiling, easy to achieve continuous simmering, no combustion byproducts, no direct fossil fuel use, much easier to clean… I was a gas evangelist until we switched to induction and capped off the gas supply; it’s a revelation, and I’d never go back to gas unless I didn’t have a choice. Note however: if you’re a big fan of authentic wok cooking, gas is still the only choice for now.

Welcome! We are doing the same to a small semi-detached Victorian house in E10.

Has anyone used Forbo Marmoleum natural lino as the finished surface on an insulated slab with wet UFH? I’m hoping to be able to use it in our new extension: slab, 150mm PIR and 50mm screed with UFH. Marmoleum documentation states that it’s compatible with UFH but should not exceed temperatures of 27degC”…

Thanks; did you DIY the EPS fill, or use a contractor?

I’d like to fill the voids to avoid having to ventilate them, and provide some form of insulation for the stack. Is Leca absorbent? Would be great to do a DIY pour down the chimney and swerve the cost of blown EPS…

I’d like to seal and fill the chimney stacks in my Victorian semi. What would be the best way to block the fireplace flues? And what to use to fill the chimney stack voids? Vermiculite/Perlite/Leca/EPS? Got to seize the chance and do this quick as there’s scaffolding access to the top of the stack!

I'm looking to fit fixed triple-glazed units into the very narrow (300mm opening) side apertures of the bay windows in my Victorian house, but size them in such a way so that the frames are hidden behind the exterior brick masonry, and only the glass is visible from the outside. This would necessitate the glazing to be replaceable from the inside, to save having to wreck the fabric of the opening if the glass is compromised. I would prefer to use Velfac 200 Energy, but their fixed units require the sash to be removed from the outside in order to replace the glass; unsuitable in this case. Is there anything out there that's suitable? Looking for ~0.8Uw, ideally timber or alu-framed.

The rafters are ~100mm deep, with a wind-tightness membrane above, then slates. Would it be possible to full-fill between rafters with Dritherm 32, or would an airgap be necessary?

We're having a dormer loft conversion built right now, and are almost at the point of fitting PIR between joists/studs. I'd like to wrap the lot in airtightness membrane, but not sure which type to get, or best-practices for applying it. Are there guides for doing this, especially for around window/rooflight reveals? Which membrane performs well without breaking the bank?

Thank you, very helpful. Do you use TRVs on the rads, or just a balanced system with no individual controls/zoning?