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Willl

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  1. That was discussed but couldnt be faced! Here are the plans if they 'shine any light'? (I'm now thinking it was something they said as part of the 'sell'!) Thanks, Will
  2. Hi, would anyone be able to advise if reclaimed pine boards can be used in a loft conversion please? Checking from the angle of building regs (hence my posting here) but also interested in opinion. 'Tongue and groove high density board' has been quoted for. Thanks, Will
  3. Thanks Russell. With the steels that are going in lower (around floor level) is there anything that can be done? I'm trying to understand what can be done to give more height in a loft conversion when head height is tight.. On the quotation we were given 'sinking the steels' was given but now the builder has turned up he is saying that its not a thing..! Will
  4. Hi, is sinking / embedding the steels (if height in a loft conversion is tight) a thing / something that can be done? Thanks, Will
  5. Thanks all! Is it possible to tell from the above images if these slates could be reused? Will
  6. I feel like I have been let down by the council here; as the extension is certainly "overbearing". Unfortunately, I feel I have let myself down too - as I should have challenged before it was constructed and its too late! (My understanding being that unless it is considerably different to the approved plans nothing will be done / enforced.. )
  7. I'm trying to understand how planning permission is given for a structure that once the parapet is built, is close to 4m high, when the councils published guidance is: • However as a general rule, extensions extending up to 3m in length should be no more than 3m in height on the boundary. • Extensions which exceed this length and exceed a height of 2.5m on the boundary are unlikely to be supported. • Where a pitched roof is proposed, the ridge height should be visibly lower than the sill of any first floor windows. (minimum of 2 or 3 brick courses) • Extensions should not overlook or have an overbearing or enclosing effect on adjacent properties by way of their height, position or depth The property is also on a slight elevation which increases its impact.
  8. Thanks Redbeard. Yes a neighbour and PP. Will
  9. With planning permission granted for a rear extension of 3.3m, a parapet wall can be built that takes the height closer to 4m. Doesn’t seem right but is yes? Thanks, Will
  10. What is making me think about using the old slates, is that there doesn't seem to be a new slate or tile that is considered a 'go to' or superior..? Don't want to discard something that is of better quality..
  11. How about the idea of using the existing tiles? I do understand that I will have to potentially pay extra for the tiles on the back and side to be carefully removed and sorted between good and worn but worth it if this is good quality old slate yes? Also, to add some warm roof insulation to help keep some head height in this part of the conversion..? Sensible or also silly? Many thanks, Will
  12. Understood; with the age of the roof and the house I'm presuming it is old Welsh slate we have and that is what has made me think about trying to keep it.. Thanks, Will
  13. Hi, I will be having a hip to gable loft conversion with a dormer on the back and am unsure what to do about the roof at the front. Presently, I have an agreement with the builders that they will replace any damaged slates they find but I don’t want to regret not having the roof redone while scaffolding is up.. It is an old slate roof, with no felt or similar underneath. I have had problems in a couple of places at the back, where slate has slipped leaving gaps and consequently water damage to the ceilings below. I haven’t had these problems at the front. My thoughts are to ask the builders for a price to carefully remove the slate on the side and back (keeping any that are good) to then remove the tiles on the front and then lay a breathable membrane, before retiling using the existing good tiles. I’m guessing batten will need to be replaced in places.. A sizeable job with a sizeable cost I’m guessing.. Any opinion on if I should just stick to the agreement to replace damaged slates? The hip to gable section of the roof will be retiled as part of the conversion and two large Velux windows will be fitted. My understanding is that it is often the nails that fail, rather than the tiles themselves, so should I try and have an agreement that the roof is assessed overall and loose slates made secure? My primary worry is water coming through, with this no longer coming straight onto the ceiling, I’m guessing this would be onto the insulation that is required to be fitted above the plaster board. Is it possible to have insulation that would do a similar job to the membrane and give a certain level of protection from water ingress? Lastly, if I did have retiled with a membrane would it be possible to insulate as a warm roof and therefore save some head height in this part of the conversion? The rafters are 100mm so I understand for a cold roof, insulation would need to be added into what would be head height. Apologies for any ignorance displayed here and thanks in advance for any opinion and advice! Will
  14. Thanks all. I think we will go for a set of 'slide and turn' of doors, with a wide single piece glass balustrade (it appears you can get these beyond 3m in width) and give the flat roof lights in the bathroom and bedroom a miss, as they could create heat problems in the summer.. Best, Will
  15. Funny how communicating on something can give you some clarity..! I apologize for my stupidity here regarding the door / window question - of course the window - unless a bi fold window or similar would have a frame and therefore never present a fully 'open' space! If anyone has any opinion on flat roof lights / panels in a loft that would be much appreciated! Will
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