Russell griffiths

Nope that’s shit. clipped and supported every 600mm I would say. and what about insulation, it should all be insulated if it’s under a floor. look up some regs it will give you the correct support spacing.

We went with norrsken, I wasn’t keen on the build quality of the rational ones and didn’t like the design of the nordan.

@NandM why are you bothered and why are you questioning it. my point. unless the beam in question is made of unobtainiam and it’s a cost point you are arguing then. you will need some sort of beam, that’s a definite a timber kerto beam or laminated gluelam will not be cheaper than a steel beam. whatever you use you won’t be picking it up by hand, so it’s a telehandler or a crane, that’s for sure. the only thing I can see in your drawing that I think is pointless is the splice joint, a 10m beam can be made in one piece, it can be delivered on a normal truck, it doesn’t require an artic, so unless you are really tight for space I see no reason to make it in two parts. a splice joint could add £250-400 depending on number of holes and bolts used. all I would say is if you can go deeper with the size it could get lighter, maybe 45-55 kg a metre, so it ends up 500kg instead of 900kg. still needs a crane or a forklift though.

Not unless it’s a habitable room above it. as far as I’m aware.

Is it the big old vicarage ?

Raised seam roofing, for the dormer and all the other grey bits.

@Stu84 they are just normal face bricks, we are assuming you meant hollow clay blocks like they use abroad. no sleeves needed, resin anchor and away you go. the starter profile will just need the screws and plugs they supply.

Get a 600 mm piece of 200x 48 fix it to the wall with two resin anchors set at 400mm apart 24 hrs later get a crow bar and try to get it of the wall. tell us what you think.

You can get the perforated sleeves in stainless mesh also. many makes not just fisher.

450 x600 concrete manhole sections, pipe enters one side, silt drops to the bottom pipe exits other side. concrete sections are about £40 and a lid about the same, so you have £200 in materials with the concrete base to sit it all on, then your labour to core drill two 110mm holes. the choice is yours, all these things are designed to cut down on labour, so £25-£30 an hour for 4 hours to fit it.

I’m baffled as to why you are building with sips and then having to add extra insulation. either get a better sips product or find a different method of building happy to be educated as to the reason.

If you went with something 120wide you could cover the outer face in ply to cover the top and bottom flange, for fixing to.

Why not just use an i beam and fill the webbs with timber to fix to and reduce the cold bridge.

30minutes I believe new board and skim is rated at.

Run your airtight membrane straight across the window holes, don’t cut them out, cut openings out when the windows arrive. run some wall roof membrane over the holes on the outside as well. carry on inside.

Bite the bullet disc cutter, cut the concrete through as close to the building, break it up and chuck it in a skip, dig the ground out and lay a row of slabs slightly lower than the rest of the concrete.

Morning im looking for information about some form of gate intercom. we previously looked into this when running first fix electrical, but I’m thinking technology must have moved on a bit. previously I thought at the gate a person would push a button and talk into a small box on the gate, it would buzz at the house where we would have a screen and microphone that you talk to them and either get them to drop a parcel there or push a button to get the gate to open. this all feels a bit 1980’s and I’m sure it should come up on your phone now or go to an I pad or computer screen, whatever is on at the time. if this is the case, how does it all work and what sort of cable/ signal would I need at the gate/ house end. the distance from the gate to the house is 120m. I have a duct running the length of the drive with pull cord in it for running anything. ta very much.

@Gone West look up owl roofing, it’s a brush on membrane that cures with moisture, I think they reinforce it with a roll of cloth just like fibreglass without the weather problems. it uses the same fibreglass edge trims. when I did mine I got a trim that tucked under the tiles.

6x6 split 50-50 front and back so 6x3 kitchen open plan living room then 6x3 at the back with 2 small bedrooms and a tiny bathroom, we only use one bedroom the other one is a dressing room clothes hanging and drying space. bedroom is tight, double bed against one wall with 600mm at the bottom of the bed and 1m to the side of the bed. we have lived in it for two years and it’s very comfortable, the only downside is no storage. my wardrobe consists of a stack n store box with 2 pairs of good jeans and 3 pairs of work trousers, a few t shirts and that’s it, everything else in storage.

Agree with this, what sort of airtight score are you after. and have you done a heat loss calculator I’ve got 180m bungalow, but with vaulted ceilings up to 5m and my Heatloss calculator was pointing to a 7kw unit.

24m is too small to live in comfortably for a year or more, I currently live in 36m cabin while we build ours. so I would build a large ancillary lean to, you can put a freezer in it, washing machine and storage for work clothes and stuff. if you are building it for future use then it will have to comply with fire regs and various other things, so just build it to the correct spec. building control won’t care much if your living in it, just tell them it’s just at weekends when you stay over.

Forget ufh all these overly board systems are like snake oil, they will tell you anything you want to make a sale. unless you want to spend loads on installing the correct insulation then stick with radiators. your house was not designed for ufh, so will require a load of money to make it work.

this sort of thing @Mr Punter

There is a company on e bay, who make up purposes designed manifolds for splitting incoming mains. have a hunt, they look good.

@crispy_wafer I did this.