Russell griffiths

Osb is horrible to paint, use ply if only using wood, I used fermacel on top of osb as it has a fire rating. if you don’t think you need a fire rating then just ply, don’t paint with standard emulsion it will have every single workman’s handprint on it, use a gloss or I used eggshell as it’s not shiny. not particularly cheap though compared to a 10 litre tin of white Matt.

Soak with a sponge and the paint should wash off. key the surface up if it’s a bit shiny. 40 grit sandpaper will give it a key.

Can they do that distance?? or would you have a wi fi point at the gate ??

Why put something in the floor where you cannot get access to it, when you have a large void over the entire house that is being unused I’ve built two bungalow type houses and everything goes up in the loft for easy placement and easy maintenance later.

For a start those wall need lowering and insulation placed over them unless you want a cold spot. what’s the floor finish going to be. and what’s the screed thickness.

No idea, I wouldn’t use them if they were free.

If your thinking of using thermalite blocks, for both inner and outer you need to have a serious re think. or are you thinking of the single block that does solid wall construction did this in the 90’s lots of problems with the blocks crumbling. not for me.

Isn’t it only suitable for a certain type of block ?? if you want to be so hands on I would either go icf, or timberframe with a block outer skin. I didn’t use block n block for my own house, and I’m an ex bricky. it just looked far to hard on my own.

Why not sister but with ply, 18mm ply ripped to 100mm strip, fitted to the side would significantly strengthen the original level these all up and it would give a nice flat top to then cut a full length shim/ packer to glue onto the top. some might only be 5-6mm so a table saw would be needed. mad idea 🤷🏻‍♂️🤷🏻‍♂️

I used 18mm osb, then sheets of fermacel then a couple of coats of eggshell paint so any dirty fingerprints wash off. as has been said, bring your floor level up either level or higher than ffl in the house, you don’t want a drop down in there when the main house is done. nice ply would work just as well, I just wanted something with a fire resistant rating in case bc becomes a plonker.

Leave it !!!

I thought it looked like a good idea but someone pointed out that it dents easily if you knock it.

Anybody else know about this stuff i thought all you nerdy types @Pocster would have some points to share. c,mon I’m a Luddite and need help.

If you chuck your skiddies up there they would probably stick.

It’s normally handled by removing the metal pipe and replacing it in plastic. 😂

If you have a window schedule it will take 5 minutes to send it for them for a quote pointless asking here we all have different designs and shapes.

Regarding splice cost. I haven’t a clue about current costs, but basically they charge by the hole, so a plate with 6 holes in both sides would be 12 holes @ £10 a hole ( just a guess) plus the two or 4 steel plates. Regarding lifting it in one piece your beam is 854kg in two it’s 427 kg. in three it’s 284kg. so cutting it in 3 it’s still over a quarter of a tonne. if I was on a budget and doing it myself I would lift them up through the first floor and then get them up to the final point. however if you are paying a builder and his two lads to do this the time you have payed out £450-600 for a day of messing about you could have paid to have it lifted up mechanically and been finished by 11am. it’s all a bit of save a quid in one hand and pay it out in another. if I was doing this I would look for a local company with either a large hijab lorry or a mobile tracked crane.

Nope that’s shit. clipped and supported every 600mm I would say. and what about insulation, it should all be insulated if it’s under a floor. look up some regs it will give you the correct support spacing.

We went with norrsken, I wasn’t keen on the build quality of the rational ones and didn’t like the design of the nordan.

@NandM why are you bothered and why are you questioning it. my point. unless the beam in question is made of unobtainiam and it’s a cost point you are arguing then. you will need some sort of beam, that’s a definite a timber kerto beam or laminated gluelam will not be cheaper than a steel beam. whatever you use you won’t be picking it up by hand, so it’s a telehandler or a crane, that’s for sure. the only thing I can see in your drawing that I think is pointless is the splice joint, a 10m beam can be made in one piece, it can be delivered on a normal truck, it doesn’t require an artic, so unless you are really tight for space I see no reason to make it in two parts. a splice joint could add £250-400 depending on number of holes and bolts used. all I would say is if you can go deeper with the size it could get lighter, maybe 45-55 kg a metre, so it ends up 500kg instead of 900kg. still needs a crane or a forklift though.

Not unless it’s a habitable room above it. as far as I’m aware.

Is it the big old vicarage ?

Raised seam roofing, for the dormer and all the other grey bits.

@Stu84 they are just normal face bricks, we are assuming you meant hollow clay blocks like they use abroad. no sleeves needed, resin anchor and away you go. the starter profile will just need the screws and plugs they supply.

Get a 600 mm piece of 200x 48 fix it to the wall with two resin anchors set at 400mm apart 24 hrs later get a crow bar and try to get it of the wall. tell us what you think.