Russell griffiths

We have gone a bit off piste and fitted two sinks. a small nice looking thing for veg chopping and prep, then a dirty big one for washing up.

Get a camera survey done.

If turning this garage into a habitable room, just make sure you have a fire escape plan in your head, before you finally commit.

Yes. You need to protect it from chafing and also provide air sealing to the hole you just made.

I think your getting your piling techniques mixed up. he’s talking about vibrated stone columns to build a house on top of.

Unless I’m wrong which I’m happy to be. you won’t get a vibrio rig on your site without knocking the bungalow down, I’ve never seen a small one. you can get small piling rigs to drive a steel driven pile, or a small rig for a bored pile, but all the vibrio ones are huge bits of kit. ask @ToughButterCup I believe to underpin with a steel driven pile they smash it in close to the original foundation and underpin the original with a concrete cap.

The other thing to consider is get planning for a demo and rebuild and sell it, go and buy another rough one and do the same until your happy you have the funds to do it yourself. or forget that quote and build one of the extensions, wait a bit and build another then take the roof off and go up. will take 5 years of living in a building site, but by employing smaller builders you could probably split the financing up a bit. sell it, all the while keeping your eye out for another cheap one in the same area.

Talk to an estate agent and find out how much all those neighbours houses are worth, then show him the pics of your ideas, try to get a feel for the finished value. then go from there.

You have your answer. you beat a developer in buying it, what do you think he wanted it for. it looks like the cheap house on the block. you always aim to buy the cheapest house in the best street, then turn it into the best house on the street. The big problem is getting the finance.

Having just flicked through your previous thread the one with the picture of your bungalow in it. that is definitely a plot in a nice street, if you put that up for sale somebody will grab that and flatten it. do you have room at the back to push a new house backwards in line with next door. show us a pic of the street view, the bungalow definitely looks like the poor brother to the house next door. knock down and rebuild looking at your design could be anything upwards of 650,000- 800,000. what would it be worth.

I have 4 wi fi points in the house. but we also have 2 external points under the soffit, should be good for 50m radius around the house.

Handy for when I do my legs.

If you have loft access which I believe you might, you can put a data cable up there going out of the facia board to a TP link external device. we are able to pick up the house wi fi from a great distance across the garden, well beyond 30m, but not measured it.

Can you run it on the surface or in the ceiling joists it all depends where your outside unit is going and your tank inside mines all surface mounted, but it runs through a garage and outside.

As far as I’m aware in a mains fed hot water tank this problem doesn’t exist.

Do yourself a really really big favour and send that back and swap it for flexible ducting. I don’t know what your design calls for but I would go 90mm rather than 75.

What air in pipes. does your house now not have pipes in the loft. the bungalow I live in now certainly has pipes that go from a cylinder up into the loft and then down to a bedroom

I have absolutely no idea what you are talking about.

Lay a batten on the last row of wall ties you installed and lift it out to clean off any droppings. if you put a cavity closer in you will need to put in a cavity tray above it to shed moisture to the outside, this could create a weak joint all around the building.

Really this is all a bit pointless without knowing what it’s to be used for. it may well be better to put it up on 4 ground screws with a timber floor with insulation between the floor joists.

@sam I’m not keen on your walls being so low in the ground, I would put both layers of insulation inline on top of each other so the outer edge is flush, then fit the sole plate on top of both layers. I would look at a denser insulation for the perimeter maybe xps300 or eps 300. I would stagger all the joins in the insulation and glue it all together to form one big slab. I would also glue the chipboard flooring down so it all acts like one big chipboard insulation sandwich, sort of. your bigger problem will be stopping it blowing away. 1m long threaded rod buried in the ground below your drainage layer, coming up through your sole plate could fix this. what do you want to do in there as 4m square is rather small. and the cost per m will be extremely high, it won’t cost much more to make it a bit bigger.

Didn’t we have something that could have thinned down the aging population ?

Worktop is oak.

any good. clearwater urban I think the sink is proper cushty don’t know if the tap is any good to you. der, just read you want a drainer. 🤷🏻‍♂️

If you have already screeded the floor, how are you going to get the water to run to that drain ?? if you want a square 150x150 stainless grating then mcalpine do a good selection.