Russell griffiths

Find a very local surveying company you want them on site probably 4 times. 1. They will set out the site strip roughly 2m wider in every direction. 2. They set out the foundations to 50-60mm accuracy 3. They set out the walls onto the concrete foundation to mm accuracy. 4. Drain locations within the house footprint to mm accuracy. . we had one more visit to plot the location of the piles. £400 well worth it.

Did you order directly with the company in Italy. if so tell us how you did it, and what you saved to make us all sick.

I paid an architect as little as I could and a planning consultant as much as I needed to. you want to gain planning permission, not draw a fancy house.

Yep that’s the way to do it. don’t do little bits of ply though. cut a 250mm wide strip the length of all the cupboards.

In the time you’ve faffed about it would be in now. I have found that I find the solution to a problem, I then spend two weeks looking at ways to do it cheaper, try to reinvent the wheel, buy something crap. then throw the crap thing away and buy the part I should have bought two weeks ago.

As Conner said you need 110mm through slab and up, then change to 50mm you can have the 50 in the screed or insulation but not to run down and out. back inlet gulleys are for plumbing in a small kitchen refit, or trying to get an extra hand basin out, not for anything new where you have the ability to do it correctly.

Just give them a call i had a nice lady from the council come round, she could clearly see we didn’t live in it. and has also offered us advice on another issue we have.

Public liability now then, then add £100,000 rebuild to it every year you renew it. I’ve upped the rebuild cost of mine three times now. have renewed it 4 times.

Was that one on Amazon no good.

So is it an empty shell, or are they going to live in it. we are using protek, have never had to claim thankfully so can’t really comment if they are good, but they’re always helpful on the phone.

Why are you cutting it 1cm, if it’s under carpet then cut a proper chase out fit proper plastic conduit and fill it back in with screed, carpet over the top.

Time to walk away, it looked overpriced to me.

Tbh you don’t have a lot of choices you can’t stop the concrete mid pour and insert a dpc so unless you pour, stop, add dpc and then pour again there’s no other way i know of doing it.

I found that scratching it up and putting a coat of render on them, then any glue you use will stick better.

Get a waterproof admixture in the first load of concrete, bring that up to dpc level, then your normal concrete mix after that. how is the rest of the icf formed if your only worried about that bit.

I’ve just re read M4 and you are correct on room size. I’ve been going by some drawing I have see of clear uninterrupted space of 750 square. with the 900 wide I believe the basin can project into that 900 width.

What are we all looking at, mines been designed around a 750 square I certainly haven’t got 900 wide clear space.

Don’t install something you will hate, just to comply. find a better solution. a mate of mine recessed a small sink 90mm into a stud wall to get the required clearance. remember you only need a square of 750mm in front of the toilet for disabled regs.

This is always a difficult area to make look good, I’ve rarely seen a good finish here.

And this is why all old pubs mysteriously burn down.

Remember to position the steels in the room on the floor before you put the acros and needles in, once you have it all propped you sometimes cannot get the steels in. I have seen this a few times. if the celcons are not strong enough you might need to chop them back and build up in 7n lightweight concrete blocks. you can also change the cavity into one solid pier.

Then the tiles and adhesive. adds up to a bloody lot.

This post is going nowhere without a diagram traditional screed can go on a suspended floor, if the floor was designed for it. flow screed can go on a suspended floor, if it was designed for it. but you cannot put anything on top of unsupported insulation and think it will make a suitable structure.

Tips don’t get it on your hands. sooper dooper tip. if you get it on your hands, don’t put your gloves back on. 😉

In this case I think we all need to re address this question. a few diagrams would be good. im saying your biscuit mix is no good to support your tiles and you will need a load spreading board of some description.