Russell griffiths

We need a picture you say above the foundation, that’s ok, but then you say above ground, that’s not ok. they can go above the foundation, but below floor level and below dpc level.

Look at the model of hinge and look up its load rating. you might need a heavier hinge I have a few 800wide 22thick finsa mdf which is very dense.

You need a TOPO survey with all your heights marked, otherwise it’s all just a rough guess. whats to stop you building up the far end of the garden.

MBC timberframe will do the slab and frame.

Set it up correctly for the house, the static doesn’t matter as it will be raised up on stands or blocks, you can also have a fair bit of pipe above ground for the static to get a good fall, install a rodding point at the static end and jobs a gooden. word of warning when connecting to the static make sure you strap the pipe up securely, I know a chap who used his toilet for months without knowing the pipe had come of, poo mountain under the caravan.

Go and talk to a plumber ask him if he would fit one. guarantee if you fit it he will say don’t call him when it fails. lots of things work, but is it right, is it a robust solution or just a rough way of doing something not for me I’m afraid, 50m of poo filled pipe is not something i would want to mess with. and I’ve spent many hours in poo filled trenches. I will leave it for you.

A macerator fitted behind the toilet will 100% not work in your situation distance is to far, pump not powerful enough. anybody that suggests it will work, keep there name and give them a call to fix it when all that shit is backed up and under pressure. you will need a sewage pumping chamber fitted outside the man cave so the pump pushes the turdy water away, rather than near the road and sucking. allow £1200 at least for the tank and pump. or if your clever you can make one out of concrete rings and get your own pump. if it’s only light use go for a single pump, some have two and some have a back up alarm.

I know nothing about how this crafting thing works. but owning various plots of land over the years I would say you should put your own track in. you can never be fully in charge of your destination if you are relying on access through another person’s property, it will always have some further implications one day.

We did exactly this Put the plans in for a large replacement dwelling, had a meeting, they told us it was too big, we pointed out it was only 20m larger than what we could build under permitted development, they told us to put all this in a set of drawings to them. it passed a couple of weeks later. we went from 60m roughly to 220m as detached in own ground so could have side and rear and front and a loft conversion all under permitted development.

We still need more information is this a roof over a garden pergola a first floor of a house or the floor of a nightclub with 100 ravers bouncing up and down 5m is getting near the limits of a lot of solid timber and your looking for an engineered solution.

Can you not use a deeper joist, your way will use double the timber, plus the steel, plus the bolts this will make the whole idea very expensive.

What are you actually trying to do. better explanation needed.

Yep,you said it.

What I don’t understand with this post is the negative replies, when it looks to me like all the negatives could be avoided. moaning about mud, well don’t have any then, dig it out and stone it up, large car park for trades and a path and patio at the static, simple no mud. frozen pipes and a cold caravan, they were obviously not insulated correctly then. build a large 4x4m shed beside the van, put a washing machine in it and a freezer, then a woodburner to dry all the clothes and boots, the van is strictly a no work clothes area.

Buy a cabin, ours is 7m x6m, far more comfortable than a static, they are thin and pokey, tiny corridors, I couldn’t live in one. I’ve been in our cabin 2 years and I could actually carry on a lot longer.

Yes can be done, flying ringbeam above ground, with piles on the outer edge of the RPZ. or steel beam spanning across, you say cost is not an issue, but it must come into play at some point £100,000 extra, £150,000 extra there’s always a price where it all becomes a bit stupid.

Post up some pics, this could get very expensive.

Why can’t you measure what has been laid.

You don’t need a fall, you will not have enough water for it to actually flow, water droplets and splashes will just sit exactly where they fall due to the surface tension of the droplets and the grout lines. I also have floor drains in all my wet rooms after having lived in oz for a few years. you need a definite fall in the shower area, but not the main floor.

Do you fancy a gym, garden workshop or such like, build that down the garden and live in that instead. or buy your mobile home and just cut it up and remove it once finished.

Fit the foam then fit a timber trim over it, painted the same colour as the soffit. will look a lot sharper.

What for, is this to fix them in position, if so do as John said and concrete them in. if they are fixed to the wall and you just want drainage around them, then cut them off at ground level, they don’t need to be in the ground if the wall is holding them up.

On nods basis of £1500 to lay the tiles, which I think is too cheap, you then have all the concrete to dig out, re hardcore, re compact, new concrete, new steps formed. thats another £3000, then the tiles. It’s a £6000 job at the least. also what’s under that stone slab, I bet it’s a manhole, so that needs a new lid and re bedding.

It’s only a glorified shed, not intended for a house application. we all know the correct answer, but the original poster will either say it’s too expensive or the wrong size, this is just an educated fudge up really. I’ve used it under my sliders and front door. It will need protection from insect boring. Again, we all know what the correct item to use here is, but at £800 it’s an expensive option. what exactly are marmox blocks made of. I have no idea where you are getting your figures that long term use the loading could be 1/5 of stated manufacture rating.

Look up a product called kingspan green gaurd. Get it in the thickness you want, then run it through a table saw to 125mm, it has a load rating of 500kg/m something. you can drill through it and bolt your sole plate down on to it. polyurethane adhesive under it onto the concrete, and below the sole plate.