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Everything posted by Russell griffiths
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We are in a very high water level area, did you have a flood risk assessment done ? we have, so the new house basically sits above any future flood level. Have you not had to do this and design out the risk.
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I will need a fair amount but I haven’t even started digging yet, so not something I really want to spend out on yet.
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Why not buy a nice light ally tower and when you finish the build you can sell all the Kwickstage and keep the ally one for any maintenance you do in the future. Hurry up and get finished and I will have your kwickstage.
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Do you need to set this out at all ? can the main structural elements not be built and then internal walls added as you see what the space looks like all you need to have set in stone would be stair locations and soil pipes for drains the rest could be constructed as an empty box as your span from side to side should not dictate that you need any of the interior walls for structural purposes. Just an idea.
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What @IanR said makes a lot of sense, did the flow able concrete get under the insulation and actually lift it rather than the insulation actually floating. Highlighting what went wrong could help others avoid this horrible experience.
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Thanks for that chaps, at those sort of prices I don’t think I will even bother looking into doing it myself.
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Bottom driven piles.
Russell griffiths replied to Russell griffiths's topic in General Self Build & DIY Discussion
Thanks for that can you give me a rough idea on price. I know price will be dependent on many things but it might give me something to go on. 10m is fairly deep your ground must have been double crap. I have a few reasons for wanting to use this method which I will go into if it ever happens. -
Could anybody tell me roughly what I will pay to get a sap assessment ready for building regs. I think a few of you on here have done your own, how complicated is this, I’m just a thicko, but the wife’s the intellectual so I may have to get her involved. Cheers russ.
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Bottom driven piles.
Russell griffiths replied to Russell griffiths's topic in General Self Build & DIY Discussion
I’ve had a good look at your pics @recoveringacademic And I think we will struggle to get the rig around a 90degree corner we have, that’s very quick 64 in a day. What did you put on top a slab or strip footings. -
Bottom driven piles.
Russell griffiths replied to Russell griffiths's topic in General Self Build & DIY Discussion
@Mr Punter any idea why they used this method if it was a pain. This is a method used locally as an auger type pile still needs a tube around it to stop the hole caving in i like the idea as I think we will struggle to get a big rig on site @recoveringacademic mr punter described it perfectly I’ve looked at your ground improving method and think the set up is to big to get down our access track. -
Did it look like they were using a standard width block and adding sheet insulation.
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Anybody used one of the steel tube type pile systems just had a chat with a structural engineer who has done a couple of jobs local to me, and even though we haven’t had our soil survey done yet I’m doing a bit of research just in case.
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This is the problem we get, that’s why I thought the hairdryer might work. Ho hum. Think again.
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Will you try something just to humour me? use your hairdryer gently and warm up an area, just see if it goes away. We get clouding under lacquer on a different material and it is normally moisture.
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Whilst we are on the subject of icf, I spoke recently to a rep of one of the major suppliers, regarding thicker insulation on the outside skin of their blocks he said it was funny how in Canada they just use the standard block and it is only the uk market that ask for thicker blocks. Are we over thinking u values, or do the Canadians not mind having a heating bill. I do wonder about having 400mm thick walls and then a sliding door 5.5m wide slap bang in the middle of it. Thoughts.
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Our planning consultant charged me £90 per hour so you won’t get a lot for £600 if you are thinking of more then 1 plot then I wouldn’t be scrimping,
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This table is very handy for me so thanks for doing it, however it is based on a lot of figures rather than a lot of the points I have thought of when trying to decide which icf. My main thoughts were ease of use, how user friendly is the product ? second fixing, if you need to fit battens how will they fix ? how does the reinforcement fix, does it need tying in or does it lock in ? Having to tie the reo at corners will take time. How neat do the blocks look after they have been filled. I have viewed two sites near to me using icf, one looks neat and tidy and easy to clad, the other looks as though you will need to pack a lot of the battens or rasp down areas that look a bit wonky. Just my take on it, I will get a couple of quotes but won’t be picking the cheapest. However the cheapest one on your list is one I liked. ?
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Well done, house looks spot on. you have probably got another pile of paperwork to deal with when you start the demolition. ?
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Posijoist ducting and runs, how.
Russell griffiths replied to epsilonGreedy's topic in Floor Structures
I think it is easy to find a pic of a poor installation of anything, standard practice would be that any pipes should be clipped where they come into contact with an object and as peter said the metal webs have nicely rounded edges to protect cables when they are being yanked about. More concering are the steel fixing plates on roof trusses, now these are blooming sharp. -
In that case there’s no need to fit it a course at a time, i would think you need to be guided by your icf company. Who did you choose in the end we are still making our mind up.
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We are thinking of icf and have done a lot of research on different models i would think trying to do this how you list above will be a thorough pita, all the systems I have looked at come in rolls and you would want to eliminate as many joins as possible running whole strips vertically or horizontally, the thought of joining it every lift of blocks seams like hard work. Can you not batter back the sides of your excavation so you can get in there.
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Planning permission (close to a listed building).
Russell griffiths replied to Russdl's topic in Planning Permission
Thinking outside the box is it as simple as having a landscape plan done and incorporating a screening hedge so your proposed house is not visible from the listed building. We also used a consultant and don’t believe we would have got planning without them in the grand scheme of things their fees where less than we have paid our useless architect. -
If we have to walk or set up on a flat roof we keep a couple of old 1m wide carpet off cuts, lay these out and put your scaffold planks on top. It just ensures that if you had a scratchy stone stuck to the underside of your scaffold plank it wouldn’t make contact with the roof covering.
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Hello from Derbyshire/Nottinghamshire border
Russell griffiths replied to Jude1234's topic in Introduce Yourself
In that case be very careful with the fence location, in the pics it looks a bit close, you should have some wording listing the tree protection zone and the distance out from the trunk, be careful builders will move things to make life easy for themselves and you could get a nasty fine. Just a friendly warning.
