Jump to content

Russell griffiths

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    7786

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    60

 Content Type 

Everything posted by Russell griffiths

  1. Russell griffiths
    I think a lot to do with your roof covering. Describe what you are having may help people answer. I will refrain from saying 4inch nails,oops
  2. Russell griffiths
    How about icf blocks, very diy able and some of the quotes I’m getting for my house seem reasonable. Insulation and structural strength and security all in one you could clad in anything you like. Even at a later date if funds are tight.
  3. Russell griffiths
    I would check with your insurance providers we found it near impossible to get cover for any amount over £2000 , unless in a brick built structure if the building was not attached to the house, as our garage is about 10 m from the house this counted as a separate outbuilding so had a maximum payout of £2000 for any claim, be careful I don’t think we would be aware of this problem if I hadn’t asked the question regarding some tools I had.
  4. Russell griffiths
    Yessss get in. ?
  5. Russell griffiths
    In regards to outer cladding type, the reason I said block outer skin is that I found it very hard to get any reasonable insurance cover on a timber building. Im talking about tool and contents insurance, not building.
  6. Russell griffiths
    The problem with using the blocks as an infil if not for the structural part is they don’t bring anything to the party, hardly any insulation value not waterproof, so you will still need to render the outside very little resistance to sound penetration why not timberframe just like a house, and block outer skin for security, insulation in the timber frame and OSB inner skin for racking and a good finish to hang tools and put up shelves. Raised tie trusses for roof so a little bit of storage, but also good headroom if working with timber.
  7. Russell griffiths
    The problem I found with single skin block is it’s not structurally strong enough without piers, so you end up with a non flat wall inside, so fitting workbenches or shelves is a pain, i did build a very nice workshop in single skin, but I used a block made by durox in 180mm wide, nice flat interior walls. You could then install insulation later.
  8. Russell griffiths
    How about those factory seconds sip panels, i think the thing to ask is what is this building for ? if just to keep the car in then there is no need to insulate if it is to be a workshop or man cave then I would want to have a good level of insulation, i think you need to come to a conclusion on the finished product to then work out how to achieve it.
  9. Russell griffiths
    My mates one has trellis on one side and he grows his runner beans up it. Doesnt lok to shabby.
  10. Russell griffiths
    Looks good mate i see you have a metal chop saw in one of the pics, have you used steel track and stud somewhere?
  11. Russell griffiths
    Sort of like this.
  12. Russell griffiths
    You will also find all the components in a racking wall have to work together for example it is no good having a very strong wall that is not secured to the floor correctly, if laterally pushed or pulled it would lift from its base so not performing as it should, hence the floor strapping. I found in our last timberframe place that even the nail spacing was specific to the design of the wall. The 1200mm spacing is usually in line with a standard plywood bracing sheet, so sheeting is normally placed vertically so 1200 along and 2400 high.
  13. Russell griffiths
    Are there any rules, or a general rule of thumb as to how many downpipes per gutter run for an example I know our house in oz should have had one outlet downpipe per 6m run of gutter are there any such regs over here my hydrology guy has drawn far to many downpipes and I want to get rid of a couple, but would like a bit of knowledge before I go for a chat. cheers russ.
  14. Russell griffiths
    Sorry guvnor, must ave bin the chilly.
  15. Russell griffiths
    As @Brickie said that panel you showed looks like it doesn’t have a mortar pigment in it, just a different choice of sand and mix used. Ave you taken your sample to the batching plant to see if they do a similar one.
  16. Russell griffiths
    From where I’m standing it sounds as though you will know far more than the bloke turning up.
  17. Russell griffiths
    Don’t do it. They are a pain to use, one cockup and it will stand out terribly i thought you were looking into ready mix mortar remember, keep it simple., the more straightforward you make this the easier it will go if you are going to trust a brickwork gang to mix it and gauge the colouring I think you will be onto a loser before you even start.
  18. Russell griffiths
    Good lad pictures please.
  19. Russell griffiths
    Two scaffold towers, one either end, bump it up and rest on a chunk of timber, go to other end and bump up that end, raise scaffold tower by inserting another transom, bump up again and add another transom. Cost, nothing time 2 hours. Crack on son.
  20. Russell griffiths
    If you make a template lay it on both sides and drill from both sides, that way if you are not at 90degrees with your drill bit it won’t come out the other side in the wrong place.
  21. Russell griffiths
    I cannot comment on the benefits of different types of floor makeup, as others on here are far more knowledgeable than me. What i I will say is how often do you go under your house to maintain it, I certainly can’t get under the one I live in now and I won’t be able to get under the one I’m planning on building this year, so I don’t really get why you are worried about getting under the floor.
  22. Russell griffiths
    For the price of a plasslode you can buy an air nailer the hose and a compressor. But you you need to think of the air one like a corded drill verses a cordless its always attached to that bloody great air hose.
  23. Russell griffiths
    I have both air and gas. Air gun is absolutely fool proof and unbreakable, but you need a compressor to run it, it will also be attached to the air hose so it is more cumbersome if you are climbing about on trusses with it, if using it for multiple nailing it wil go on and on and on until you have to put it down as it got to heavy. If you drop it from the roof just run down and get it and carry on. paslode is lovely, but you have to buy gas for it, mine loves to misfire just as you are in the most awkward position, doesn’t like being dropped off the scaffold, temperamental in the cold, keep a gas in your pocket. My no nonsense bit, if you have arms like cocktail sticks, just use a hammer. They are all heavy. ALWAYS WEAR SAFETY GLASSES.
  24. Russell griffiths
    Our gutters in oz had slits on the outer edge just lower than the highest edge, so if any blockage occurred water would flow over the front and not the back. You could do this and have the holes in line with the gaps in your cladding, so you couldn’t see them but they would squirt out the front if needed.
  25. Russell griffiths
    Bit of a strange heading, I was having a YouTube hunt for a glue for XPS sheets and one product that came back with a good report was a primer sealer made by a company called Glidden would anybody know what the make up of this paint would be so I could find a similar product and also why it works on XPS i know a lot of the low expansion foams work well I was just looking for a product that won’t squeeze out of joints if applied a bit heavy handed and also maybe brush applied for good coverage. Cheers russ.
×
×
  • Create New...