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Everything posted by Russell griffiths
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Glulams are depressingly light-weight
Russell griffiths replied to ToughButterCup's topic in Roofing, Tiling & Slating
Two scaffold towers, one either end, bump it up and rest on a chunk of timber, go to other end and bump up that end, raise scaffold tower by inserting another transom, bump up again and add another transom. Cost, nothing time 2 hours. Crack on son.- 13 replies
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Glulams: cutting and drilling them
Russell griffiths replied to ToughButterCup's topic in Roofing, Tiling & Slating
If you make a template lay it on both sides and drill from both sides, that way if you are not at 90degrees with your drill bit it won’t come out the other side in the wrong place. -
I cannot comment on the benefits of different types of floor makeup, as others on here are far more knowledgeable than me. What i I will say is how often do you go under your house to maintain it, I certainly can’t get under the one I live in now and I won’t be able to get under the one I’m planning on building this year, so I don’t really get why you are worried about getting under the floor.
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For the price of a plasslode you can buy an air nailer the hose and a compressor. But you you need to think of the air one like a corded drill verses a cordless its always attached to that bloody great air hose.
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I have both air and gas. Air gun is absolutely fool proof and unbreakable, but you need a compressor to run it, it will also be attached to the air hose so it is more cumbersome if you are climbing about on trusses with it, if using it for multiple nailing it wil go on and on and on until you have to put it down as it got to heavy. If you drop it from the roof just run down and get it and carry on. paslode is lovely, but you have to buy gas for it, mine loves to misfire just as you are in the most awkward position, doesn’t like being dropped off the scaffold, temperamental in the cold, keep a gas in your pocket. My no nonsense bit, if you have arms like cocktail sticks, just use a hammer. They are all heavy. ALWAYS WEAR SAFETY GLASSES.
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Corrugated alternative?
Russell griffiths replied to bissoejosh's topic in Roofing, Tiling & Slating
Our gutters in oz had slits on the outer edge just lower than the highest edge, so if any blockage occurred water would flow over the front and not the back. You could do this and have the holes in line with the gaps in your cladding, so you couldn’t see them but they would squirt out the front if needed.- 35 replies
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Bit of a strange heading, I was having a YouTube hunt for a glue for XPS sheets and one product that came back with a good report was a primer sealer made by a company called Glidden would anybody know what the make up of this paint would be so I could find a similar product and also why it works on XPS i know a lot of the low expansion foams work well I was just looking for a product that won’t squeeze out of joints if applied a bit heavy handed and also maybe brush applied for good coverage. Cheers russ.
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Ah ha. I looked at one of those recently on the counter in the plumbers merchant. Spot on no silly Tupperware box needed whoever suggested such a silly idea ??
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Could you not use a Tupperware box, mount and fix the box then have the lid removable for inspections obviously mount it vertically so lid faces towards you if you can visualise what I’m thinking.
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Un-level bathroom floor
Russell griffiths replied to Mr-Mechnic's topic in General Self Build & DIY Discussion
Can you sister another joist onto the sides of the original joists but at the correct level. -
Basically the flat section of ceiling will have ceiling joist in it, it’s these that tie the two sides together if you take these out and have a fully vaulted ceiling you need to stop it spreading that’s why he had them on top of the steel but if you want to drop the ridge height you need to design in a method to keep the rafters connected to the ridge.
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You need to answer this. Are you having ceiling joists or is it a vaulted ceiling like the pictures as @Oz07 said the the ceiling joists act as a cross tie to prevent the roof spreading if it is a vaulted ceiling with no cross ties then the rafters need to be fixed securely to the ridge beam, otherwise when you load them they can physically slide down the face of the ridge beam. Just look at the angle you will cut on the end and you will see how this can happen you should go back to your designer and find the correct way of connecting
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You can cut your rafters INTO the sides of the steel instead of on top, look at my pic i tried to find a pic as I find it hard to explain sometimes can you substitute the steel beam for an LVL or a GLUELAM ,could make fixing easier you basically fit two timbers either side of the steel so it turns it into a box instead of an i shape then plumb cut your rafters to fit to the sides instead of on top regarding ridge tiles you can probably run a roof batten down the centre to pick up the fixings for that.
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So the picture is from a website for insulated floor slabs now to me it looks completely wrong with the piles penetrating through the insulation and connected to the floor slab reading the gumph on the website they explain that the cold area of the pile is the top part and the lower section is at a warmer temperature, so by insulating the top 600mm of pile will mitigate the cold bridge. Is this complete nonsense or does it make sense we are looking at 30 piles across the building so that is a huge amount of bridges if it didn’t work. Cheers russ
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SmartRoof by Keystone
Russell griffiths replied to StructuralEngineer's topic in Roofing, Tiling & Slating
Your linky thing not working. @StructuralEngineer -
Why do you need to tell anybody if you are not building them for 10 years. , build the structure strong enough, keep the drawings, cross the bridge in 10 years time.
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It turns up pre mixed in a usable condition, you hire large plastic tubs and the truck tips it into the tubs, just like readymix concrete. You then cover the tubs with thin plastic to keep it damp. It should last 3-4 days so you need to plan your brickies and make sure they have a good run of work in front of them. Obviously you don’t order it on Friday. If you have a local plant you can go with a tub and collect if you have a couple of little jobs to do.
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Morning i had another topic going about how much insulation to put on top of a bram and block floor so it look like I need to start getting a bit more technical, how do I calculate how good 200mm of insulation will be compared to 300mm and also the bearing this will have cost wise. Do I put in an extra 100mm at additional cost what is the payback I’ll be getting the wife involved in this as she’s the number cruncher, I’m just good at hitting things with a hammer. Cheers russ.
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Insulation on top of beam and block.
Russell griffiths replied to Russell griffiths's topic in General Flooring
Gfa is 206m but that’s externally so wall thickness needs to be taken off. Will probably be at least 180m -
Insulation on top of beam and block.
Russell griffiths replied to Russell griffiths's topic in General Flooring
As far as the Tetris system or jet floor go, I’m after something I can work of before I put down the finish concrete. The main construction is icf and I need a surface to work off, that I can screw bracing to with one of the lightweight systems I would need to install the finish concrete including the ufh, by doing this I will not be happy randomly screwing into the surface to install bracing. Would you be happy with 200mm of eps on top of the beam and block or would you put more in. if I was to use 3 layers of 100mm eps can anybody see a problem with multiple layers or is it better to use 1 layer. -
Insulation on top of beam and block.
Russell griffiths replied to Russell griffiths's topic in General Flooring
Right then I would rather use a poorer insulation, but use more of it I have a distinct dislike for Kingspan and find it massively over priced for what it is. If I was to use eps sheets how thick would you go i am not limited by height, in fact I need to build up a fair bit as my ffl is rather high due to having a rather over engineered flood risk assessment. Ufh will be clipped to the top layer of insulation. -
Trying to sort out all the odds and ends. How much insulation would you put on top of your beam and block floor just sorting out makeup of floor and levels. On top of the insulation will be 100mm of flowable concrete with ufh and what would be your preferred type of insulation cheers russ.
